Tag: Motorcycle

Barcelona – Last Time Ever?

Barcelona, Spain – June 6, 2012

The train departed Madrid, Spain, bound for Barcelona at about 08:30. It will be my final trip during this tour, maybe my last trip ever to Barcelona. I have been very fortunate to have made some dozen or so trips to Barcelona while living in Spain.

My stay in Barcelona is for three days and two nights. Once again, my hotel of choice was the Le Méridien on La Rambla. I have not yet decided what I will do after hours. I feel like I have seen and done nearly everything, but I am sure I will think of something.

I arrived at the hotel at about 17:00. By 17:30 I checked-in, bought a bottle of wine, some cheese, and some pistachios. That would ultimately be my dinner because I had a large lunch that day.

When I left the hotel, I grabbed a red apple. I decided to head toward the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MAC BA). I at the apple as I walked. Part of why I chose to go there was because the hotel provided a complimentary entry ticket.

I am thrilled the ticket was gratis. People say, “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” Well, this beholder did not see a great deal of beauty. To be fair, several exhibits were closed because they were either being assembled or disassembled.
Regardless, on three floors of exhibit space, I did not see one item that appealed to me. The other “strike” against the museum was the fact that it does not allow photographs. However, I was able to take a picture from an exterior balcony of an abandoned church across the street from MAC BA.

After I trekked through the three floors of the museum, I stopped at the museum shop. I was able to buy two magnets for Leslie’s collection. They are magnets that will remind us of La Rambla and Plaza Catalunya.

In front of the museum, there was a lot of activity. Since it was in the shade by then, numerous people sat on top of a small wall in front of MAC BA. In front of that was an expansive plaza. People talking, walking, and riding skateboards crowded the square.

A couple of sidewalk cafés just outside the MAC BA museum.

Detail of the abandoned church across the street from MAC BA.

People sitting on the wall in front of the museum.

A skateboarder doing tricks in front of the museum in the Plaça dels Àngels.

Another skateboarder doing tricks in front of the museum in the Plaça dels Àngels.

Yet another skateboarder doing tricks in front of the museum in the Plaça dels Àngels.

A bicycle rider departing from near the wall.

A car driving along a very narrow street.

A wall, fence, and hedge along the narrow street.

People walking past Two-Hand Photocopies.

A building across from the hotel with some art deco-looking statues.

Looking down on La Rambla as a buss passes.

Pedestrians in the center median of La Rambla.

A building across the street from the hotel.

After work on Thursday, I strolled south on La Rambla. My mission was to photograph many of the street performers that were out working. The first one I spotted was a portrait painter. Dressed entirely in white, he had a paintbrush and a palette; both also white. He had a small white frame that those posing with him held in front of their faces. That made it look as though he was painting their portrait. After the painter, I saw the space alien. He had the most fun and also had attracted the biggest crowd. A little farther down the road was a woman made up to look like the figure in Salvador Dali’s painting, The Burning Giraffe (1937). Her costume was complete with the open drawers one sees in the original painting. Lastly, there were two different performers with the same get-up, each riding a bicycle with a skeleton sidekick.

A crowd gathered around the space alien.

Plants and tourist trinkets also for sale.

People coming and going from St. Joseph Market off La Rambla.

An Erotic Museum??? I did not have the gumption to enter.

The woman “from” The Burning Giraffe by Salvador Dali. Note the chain attached to the money jar.

The bell tower of the Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi.

An advertisement for a Titanic exhibition.

The most unique feature of a building near the Liceu Metro stop is the dragon holding a lamp with an umbrella leaning against the lamp.

A unique building near the Liceu Metro stop.

At one point along La Rambla, I found myself at an exit/entry of the Metro. Suddenly, nuns began streaming out of the underground Metro onto the street. Based on the habits they wore, I believe they were part of the Missionaries of Charity. That is the group founded by Mother Teresa. I was not the only one to stop and photograph their exit.

Mercenaries of Charity exiting the Liceu Metro stop.

An intricate water fountain on La Rambla.

Two people posing near another bike rider and skeleton.

I ultimately ended up in the “art” area of La Rambla, an area with caricature artists and painters of nearly every variety. I watched one artist ply his trade with spray paint. It was amazing what he did and how quickly he completed the canvas. He began with a white, stretched canvas, and in about five minutes, he had a finished work of art. It looked like a beach sunset scene. Beside him was a box of a dozen or so spray paint cans. He had only one nozzle that he quickly detached from one can and attached to another in a split second. At one point, his cell phone rang. Once he answered the cell phone, he cradled it to his ear, and he was right back to painting. I do not think this was his first day on the job! Some of the detail work, such as the palm trees and birds, he did by hand; other than those, it was spray paint only.

Shortly after that “booth,” I found an artist that did oil paintings on canvas. One of the large pictures reminded me of the art Leslie, and I had just seen at the Thyssen Museum in Madrid; Saint-Honore Street in the Afternoon Effect of Rain by Camille Pissarro (1897). The artist wanted €120 (US$146). I talked him down (the first bartering I have done in Spain) to €80 (US$97), so I bought the painting. It may have been too expensive, but oh well.

The spray paint artist on the phone. Notice his right hand is still moving furiously.

Some colorful art for sale on La Rambla.

On my way back north on La Rambla, I spotted a small plaza off to the east by about a half-block. I walked into the square and took a seat at a table at la Terrassa del DO for a glass of wine and a tapa. I decided to have patatas bravas, one of my favorites. When I asked the waiter the name of the plaza, he said, “Plaça Reial.” That translates to Royal Square. Like so many other sidewalk cafés, it was delightful and relaxing to sit there and watch the world and the people. To occupy my time, besides the wine and tapas, I took photographs and wrote in my journal.

The patatas bravas had a wonderfully delicious white sauce on top of each potato. The waiter explained that it was a specialty of the hotel, a mixture of olive oil, garlic, and eggs. I had never had a sauce like that before. It was decadent. On top of the white sauce was a dollop of the traditional red sauce commonly used on patatas bravas.

While I say enjoying my patatas bravas and wine, a three-piece musical group came by to entertain anyone in the plaza that would listen. There was an accordion player, a clarinet player, and a drummer. After their song, they went table to table with a hat to collect money. I gave them €3 (US$3.66) for their effort. I found out they were from Romania. One’s name was Steven, one was Tosh, and I did not understand the name of the third member. After they left, I ordered some calamari and another glass of wine. It was very relaxing.

When I finished, I walked back to the hotel and packed, in preparation for my departure the next day.

Mopeds lined up as far as the eye can see.

People sitting around the water fountain at Plaça Reial.

People walking past the cafe at which I sat.

The musicians stopped for a smoke break.

Posing for a photograph in front of the fountain in Plaça Reial.

Barcelona with Flat Stanley

Barcelona, Spain – March 21, 2012

When I woke up this morning, it was raining. That is the first precipitation we have had in many, many months. It was coming down somewhat hard. I got myself ready, finished packing, and left the house to meet my neighbor for a ride to work. When I arrived at his car, I was surprised to see it covered in snow. The rain had switched to snow. Luckily it was not accumulating on the ground.

Shortly after arriving at the office, I hailed a taxi to take me to the Atocha railway station to catch my 08:00 train. It had stopped snowing, but it was still raining. The cab dropped me off at the station at about 07:25. As always, the train departed precisely on time. We were scheduled to arrive in Barcelona at about 10:30.

About 25 minutes into the journey, I began to see snow had accumulated on the ground just enough to turn the ground white.

Another 20 minutes further along and there was snow! I estimate it was about three or four inches deep, complete with some drifts. It was a pretty sight. The train slowed from 300 kilometers per hour to 160 kilometers per hour (186 mph to 99 mph) going through that area. It was also very foggy.

About halfway through the journey, I walked to the cafeteria car and spent 3.40€ (US$4.15) for a cup of coffee and a croissant. I stood at the counter in the cafeteria car to consume those. The croissant was huge. Chasing a bite of a croissant with a sip of Spanish coffee is heavenly!

I arrived at the Barcelona train station at about 10:42, the late arrival no doubt due to our trek through the snow at about half-speed. It is the only time I can recall being on a train that arrived late. It was raining in Barcelona. I took a taxi to the office and then, later, I took a cab to my hotel.

After unpacking at the hotel, I walked next door to the grocery store to buy a bottle of wine. Once there, I decided to pick up some tapas. I bought some sliced Havarti cheese, chorizo picante (Felix de Murtiga Jabugo – lberico de Bellota), and some pistachios. When I returned to my room, I was surprised to find a bowl of fruit and some mineral water. The fruit consisted of a huge strawberry, grapes, a pear, a kiwi, and a plum. So, all of that food became my dinner. Partly because it was there and partly because I did not want to go out in the weather to a restaurant.

Just before leaving for Barcelona, we received Flat Stanley in the mail. He came to us from a friend in Colorado. He is working with their second-grader as they learn about the world. So, one of the first things Flat Stanley did was look out of the hotel window onto La Rambla.

Flat Stanley looking out of the hotel window.

The next day, after work, Flat Stanley and I decided to go to the Picasso Museum. We decided we would walk to the museum. It is only about 1.5 kilometers (0.9 miles) from the hotel. Just as we began our walk, I saw one of the Go Cars. When I later looked at the photograph I had taken, I was surprised by the numerous modes of transportation captured by the camera; of course, the Go Car, the numerous mopeds, the pedestrians, the cyclist, the van approaching in traffic, and the taxi behind that.

Several modes of transport are available in Barcelona.

We continued on our walk, through the plaza in front of the Cathedral and then on to Carrer Princesa. Shortly after turning onto that street, we came across a shop, Arlequi Mascaras. Flat Stanley desperately wanted to go inside and have a look at all of the masks. While there, I bought a key chain for Tyler and a broach for Hillary. Flat Stanley did not buy anything, but he did want his picture taken with some of the masks his size. There was a sign in the store that photographs were not allowed. However, after meeting Flat Stanley, the shopkeeper, Anna, said I could take his picture. She commented after seeing the photo, “Flat Stanley looked like a fish in the water with all of those masks.”

Students gathering around the Barcelona sculpture.

A bustling market in front of the cathedral.

Dozens of people gathering outside the cathedral.

One can go either way to the Picasso Museum.

From that shop, we continued toward the Picasso Museum. In all of my visits to Barcelona, I have never been to this museum. I have passed by it many times, but I have never gone in. I think that is because the entry line has been too long in the past. This time there were only about a dozen people in front of me. I am delighted I spent the 11€ (US$13.42) to enter the museum. Picasso’s works absolutely stuff the museum. The vast majority of them are from the period between 1890 and 1917. During much of that time, he lived in Barcelona. Additionally, there were several works from 1957 when he was living in Cannes, France. Following are the artworks I most enjoyed seeing:

Mother and Son with Handkerchief – 1903. Photo credit WikiArt (https://www.wikiart.org/en/pablo-picasso/mother-and-son-with-handkerchief-1903).

Olga in a Mantilla – 1903. Photo credit WikiArt (https://www.wikiart.org/en/pablo-picasso/olga-in-a-mantilla-1917).

Gutted Horse – 1917. It reminds me of some of his later, modern works at the Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid. Photo credit WikiArt (https://www.wikiart.org/en/pablo-picasso/gutted-horse-1917).

El Paseo de Colon – 1917. Photo credit WikiArt (https://www.wikiart.org/en/pablo-picasso/el-paseo-de-colon-1917).

Las Meninas – 1957. It was a series, culminating in an extensive, maybe eight feet by 10 feet canvas, done as a likeness of the Velazquez hanging in the Prado Museum in Madrid, Spain. Photo credit WikiArt (https://www.wikiart.org/en/pablo-picasso/las-meninas-velazquez-1957-4).

Before going to the museum, I had looked up some information on the internet. It was there that I discovered that Picasso was a regular at a restaurant known as 4Gats (Four Cats). It is a small bar/restaurant that has been in existence since about 1897. Picasso did the artwork for the first menu. I thought Flat Stanley and I needed to see that restaurant. Even though I had drawn myself a map, I still had to ask a police officer for directions. By that point, we were within a couple of hundred meters, an easy walk.

The bar is at Carrer de Montsio, 3, just a few blocks north of the Cathedral. It is one of the tiny streets in the Gothic quarter of Barcelona. The slogan of the restaurant is “food and drink are served at any time.” Of course, I ordered my standard glass of vino tinto. When the waiter brought my wine, he also brought some olives. That is very normal; however, these were the smallest olives I have ever seen. The largest ones were maybe 1/2 inch in diameter. Usually, I like olives, but these were quite bitter.

There were a fantastic number of tourists that streamed through the restaurant, got a coffee or wine, took some photos and then left. It is a unique establishment. The floor is done in red bricks about four inches by eight inches, laid in a square pattern. Filling the center of the square is either a white or black piece of marble. The pattern repeats throughout. Looking at the floor from either the front or rear of the restaurant, these are all rotated 45 degrees so they appear to be diamonds. The marble forms a line from front to back, alternating one line white and the next black.

One side wall toward the rear has a large painting, again about eight feet by ten feet, of two men on a tandem bicycle. I think it was painted by Casay, undoubtedly a contemporary of Picasso.

The cathedral spire rises above the street.

The entrance to the 4 Gats Restaurant. Beginning at age 17, this was one of Picasso’s hangouts.

The bar at the rear of the seating area in 4 Gats.

A plaque marking the centenary of the 4 Gats Restaurant.

The gate next to 4 Gats reads Pasatge de St. Joseph.

The sidewalls of the restaurant, on the floor, begin with a wooden baseboard about twelve inches wide. On top of that is a dark wood decorative molding. Above that is a wide stripe of alternating white and green tiles. The tiles are triangular, with two of them forming a square about five inches by five inches. The total width of these tiles is a band, four squares tall. Above that is a band of two tiles, with each four forming a flower pattern. Those same tiles repeat at the front of the bar. The ceiling is open-beams of dark wood, with the bottom portion painted green.

The wall opposite the painting of the men on the bicycle has wood and glass doorways repeating all along the wall, each formed by a pointed arch. Within the arc are the wooden frames of the windows and the doors. Above the doors, the windows contain numerous disks of colored glass. It almost looks like this building was part of a parish hall at some point.

While I continued to sit in the restaurant, I decided to have a tapa. I ordered Croquetas de la Casa. They are a deep-fried concoction about the size of a Jalapeno popper, filled with a mixture of cheese, meat, and a kind of doughy substance. I like them. My family does not like them.

My bill for the evening came to 14.47€ (US$17.66). That price included 3.24€ (US$2.02) for a magnet depicting the cover of the menu done by Picasso. I thought it was a very reasonable price for all that I received. I would highly recommend this stop to anyone, whether or not they are a Picasso fan.

Pedestrians on Avenida Potal Angel.

One of the shops on Avenida Portal Angel.

The next day, after working about half a day at the office, Flat Stanley and I boarded the AVE train for our return trip to Madrid. We arrived at about 17:10, hailed a taxi, and braved some horrendous traffic to get out of downtown. All in all, it was a great trip.

Father/Son Outing to Madrid 2.0

Madrid, Spain – March 3, 2012

On the spur of the moment this morning, Tyler and I decided to go to the area where he recently went with his class on a bike ride. We caught the light rail in Pozuelo and made our way to the Principe Pio (Prince Pio) Metro stop in Madrid. One of the first sights we saw when we exited the station was the Carlos Ill Gate. The date on it was 1775. It was striking because the sun highlighted its brilliant white colors against the blue sky.

We walked down to the Rio Manzanares. The headwaters of the river are near the town of Manzanares el Real. We visited that town on January 4, while Hillary was in Spain for Christmas break. When we arrived at Principe Pio, it was around 58 degrees. The sky was a beautiful blue, and there was zero wind. Because of that, the river was as smooth as glass.

There is a bike trail on either side of the river. According to a marker on the path, we were at the 2 kilometer (1.2 miles) point of a 30-plus kilometer (18.6 miles) trail which follows the river. That marker was near the King’s Bridge, built in 1828. It runs from Campo del Moro (Moor Field) on the west side of the Palacio Real (Royal Palace) to an entrance to Casa de Campo (cottage). There was a large fountain at the entrance to Casa de Campo.

A worker’s truck parked beside the path.

The King’s Bridge looking toward the entrance to Casa de Campo.

The columns separating the bridge from Casa de Campo.

Apartment buildings line the side of the river.

A jogger on the path passes under the Palacio Real.

The King’s Bridge. Just beyond the bridge is the Principe Pio area of town.

Several people and dogs out for a walk near the Palacio Real.

We continued south along the river until we came to the Dam #5. The dam is a mere babe compared to other structures on the river, finished in 1955. At the dam there appeared to be a lock in the center of the dam. Neither very large nor very wide, a canoe is probably the largest boat that might fit through the lock. We used the bridge over the dam to get to the west side of the river.

Looking across the granite toward the lock control room.

Dam 5 with the Palacio Real and Catedral de la Almudena in the distance.

We continued our southerly course toward the Segovia Bridge. Completed in 1584, I found it humbling to be at a structure nearing 430 years of age. There were dozens of vehicles on the bridge.

As we got closer to the bridge, we saw a man below the bridge fishing. As we watched, he caught a small fish. It looked like a keeper to me. However, he took the fish off of the hook and tossed it back in the river. Maybe this is a catch and release area like some of the rivers in Colorado. Or, perhaps he wanted a larger fish.

The story of the Segovia Bridge, completed in 1584.

The nearly 430-year old Segovia Bridge crosses over the Rio Manzanares.

A man reeling in a fish at the Segovia Bridge.

A worker and his vehicle near the river.

At the Segovia Bridge looking toward the cathedral.

Traffic queuing on the bridge. The palace and cathedral are in the distance.

We crossed over the Segovia Bridge at the intersection of Calle de Segovia and Avenida de Portugal. The crossing was incredibly busy. Many impatient drivers honked their horns. What seemed like one siren after another punctuated the other noises.

About 100 meters or so south of Calle de Segovia (Segovia Bridge) we stopped for a coffee at Madrid Rio Cafe. It was right beside the bike path. While we sat there, we enjoyed the sun and our coffee and watched people walk by, jog by, ride by, and go by on Rollerblades. Many of the people had dogs with them. At the cafe was a lady with a dog that looked like a very hairy basset hound. His name was Rafael. She and Rafael soon left. We continued to sit at our table. Shortly, another couple arrived to sit down with their dog. The dog was a small greyhound or maybe a whippet. The odd and sad thing is the dog was walking on just its front legs. The rear legs were one or two inches off the ground. There appeared to be some raw wounds on its haunches, but no medical dressings. It was very odd. I have never seen a dog balance like that.

The very intent dog, Rafael, at a riverside cafe.

There was a constant stream of people using the path in front of the cafe.

A man and woman walk toward the hogs while a girl rides by on a bicycle.

A man traveling the opposite direction with no hands on the handlebars.

When we finished our coffee, we walked back to the Segovia Bridge. We watched the busy intersection for a while. Once again, multiple ambulances came through the intersection.

We walked east across the bridge to the intersection of Calle de Segovia and Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto. As we approached that intersection, we saw the smallest gas station we have ever seen. It was literally about the size of two porta potties placed side by side. It was adjacent to the curb. In other words, the gas station had no driveway. A car stops at the curb, and the driver says, “Fill ‘er up,” no doubt in Spanish. There is only one pump.

At the intersection was a couple of Madrid’s Mobility Police. Their only job is to find traffic snarls and then direct the traffic until things clear up. We stood there for a while to watch. Of course, while we did, two different ambulances came through the intersection at two different times.

A traffic police officer near the gas station.

An ambulance navigating the streets of Madrid.

From there we began walking up the hill to the Catedral de la Almudena (Almudena Cathedral). To get there, we walked through the Parque de Atenas (Athens Park). When we reached the eastern edge of the park, we found ourselves at the base of a street called Cuesta de la Vega. It was a mini San Francisco, California Lombard Street. Near the top, we found ourselves at a site called Muralla lslamica de Madrid (Muslim wall of Madrid). According to the various signs there, the wall was originally part of a fortress dating between 860 and 880. It is from this area that Madrid grew to its present state.

The walkway in Athens Park toward the cathedral.

A man and his dog preparing to cross the sidewalk.

Another view of the water fountain in the park.

The south side of Catedral de la Almudena.

The fountain at the Muslim wall of Madrid.

The cathedral is just beyond the Muslim Wall. The wall dates from the 9th Century.

A metal relief at the Muslim Wall depicts what Madrid looked like long ago. At the far left, the nearest silver feature is the cathedral. Above that, at the top left corner, is the horseshoe-shaped palace complex.

The walled site is directly south, across the street, from the Almudena Cathedral. At this street level was an entrance to the crypt of the cathedral. When the Monsignor and I were at the Cathedral in September 2010, we did not enter this part. I am glad we came today. It is amazingly beautiful. It cost us a total of 3€ (US$3.66) to enter. Boy was it worth the price of admission! Built between 1883 and 1911, this portion of the cathedral contains some 500 Corinthian columns on this level, each uniquely carved at the top.

Detail of one of the Corinthian columns in the cathedral.

Detail of a stained glass inside the cathedral.

As we entered, there was a baptismal ceremony just beginning for a baby. There were about a dozen family members there. The service did not intrude upon our walk around the Cathedral. There were burial vaults everywhere; in the floor, in the walls, and in each of the side chapels. Many of the dates of death were very recent. I told Tyler we were not just walking through a part of the Cathedral, but we were also walking through a cemetery.

A baptismal ceremony in preparation in the lower level of the cathedral.

Detail of a typical floor vault. The inscription reads; mortal remains of don Candelario Gaiztarro and Arana Eceiza Arana and his family.

The one thing in this part of the Cathedral that was far from recent is the mural of the Virgin of the Flor de Lis. It dates from 1083. It was challenging to photograph because there was a protective covering of glass, so it was hard to limit the reflections.

The famous painting, Our Lady of the Lily, dates from 1083, yes, 1083!

Detail of the ceiling in a side chapel of the cathedral.

Stained glass windows near the cathedral entry.

At the rear of the Cathedral, on either side, were additional burial areas behind metal gates. Between the two gateways was a fantastic tomb. At first, I thought it must be of a bishop or archbishop; however, in my subsequent research, I found he was an architect and author. The person’s name is Joaquin del Soto Dialog. He died in 1978. It was a very colorful and lifelike tomb. He must have been very loved and adored.

The Bible verse in one of the crypts is from Revelation 14:13, “Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord.”

Detail of the mural above the tomb of Joaquin del Soto Hidalgo.

Angels carrying the tomb of Joaquin del Soto Hidalgo.

A marker at the tomb reads, here lies he who in life was Señor don Joaquin del Soto Hidalgo.

The passage at the end of this crypt is from Romans 14:8, “whether we live or die, we are the Lord’s.”

The walkway on the west side of the cathedral.

A side chapel with a statue of San Fernando.

Another statue of the Virgin Mary in front of a stained glass window.

When we emerged from the cathedral, we walked easterly along Calle Mayor. We began to look for a place to eat. Everything we came across was either too expensive or did not appeal to us.

The main entrance to the lower level of the cathedral.

The Cathedral Church of the Armed Forces.

A display outside the Geppetto Souvenir Shop.

As we walked, I recalled that the area north and west of Plaza Mayor has several guitar shops. Leslie has said she would like a guitar, so I thought I would look. We came across a shop at Calle Amnesia, 1. It is called Antigua Casa Conde Hermanos, Sobrinos de Esbeso. A sign outside indicated 1915 as the founding of the business.

We walked inside. A man in his late 50s warmly greeted us. In my best Spanish, I told him my wife was interested in a guitar. He then introduced me to his son, Mariano Conde. I told him the same thing in Spanish. He asked if I was interested in a guitar made of Spanish materials crafted by an artisan or if I just wanted a guitar made of Spanish materials. Tyler and I conferred and opted for one made by an artisan. I asked Mariano how much one would cost. He said they start at 2,000€ (US$2,440). I gulped loudly and noticeably, asking about the other option. He said those start at 750€ (US$915).

At that point, I gulped and changed the subject. I asked Mariano if they made the guitars in the shop. He said they did. Because of my interest, he went to a breaker panel, flipped on a couple of breakers, and motioned us to follow him downstairs. That took us right into their shop. He showed us several guitars in the early stages of construction. He explained the two primary kinds of wood used are cypress and rose. He told us there are four artisans there. In three months they can make eight guitars.

Back upstairs, he mentioned that they build Flamenco and Classic guitars. He showed me one price list. The prices ranged from 2,000€ (US$2,440) to 9,000€ (US$10,984). We thanked him for his kindness and departed the store, thankful to have most of my Euros still in my pocket!

We were still hungry, so we continued our search for a place to eat. We found one called Colby Urban Restaurant at Vergara, 12. Outside they advertised a daily lunch special for 10€ (US$12.20). Our lunch began with piping hot bread and some butter (a very unusual item, hot that is, unless one asks). I had a glass of red wine, and Tyler had a glass of beer. For our first plate, we both had a Caesar salad. It was one of the best I have had. For our second dish, we both had Ternera a la Plancha. That is a grilled veal. It is only about 3/8 of an inch thick; yes, 3/8 of an inch! Regardless, it was delicious. For dessert, Tyler had vanilla ice cream with butterscotch and whipped cream. I had a coffee. All of that came to 20€ (US$24.40). It was a fabulous lunch.

We left the restaurant and walked about 200 meters to the Opera Metro stop to begin our journey home. All totaled, we walked about five kilometers (3.1 miles).

An electrical shop on Calle de Santiago.

A woman in the distance walking past a water fountain.

First Time in Lisbon

Lisbon, Portugal – February 17, 2012

Leslie, Tyler, and I departed from Madrid at about 06:30. We arrived in Lisbon, Portugal at about noon Madrid time, 11:00 Lisbon time. It was an easy drive. We all found it odd that it seemed to be so much greener once we crossed the border into Portugal.

As we entered Portugal, we found ourselves on a toll road. There was very little traffic on the way. As we drove along, we noticed we were going through a forest. Leslie noticed the bark on many of the trees was missing to a height of about eight feet. That is when it dawned on me that they were cork trees. If we had not been on a toll road, we would have stopped to try to get a closer look at one of the trees.

We were about 30-minutes out of Lisbon when we came to the toll booth. A cool 27€ (US$32.95) later we were back underway. Heading north from the toll booth we soon found ourselves at another toll booth. Thankfully the charge was only about 3.35€ (US$4). That toll road took us onto and across the Ponte 25 de Abril (April 25th Bridge). The bridge is a little more than two kilometers (1.24 miles) long. It looks almost exactly like the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. Completed in 1966, I found out later that the builder of the bridge was the same company that built the Golden Gate Bridge. The name of the bridge commemorates the revolution of 1974. The revolution brought the 48-year reign of dictator Estado Novo to an end.

We continued our drive to the AC Hotel Lisboa. It is part of the Marriott brand. As soon as we checked in and dropped off our luggage, we took a taxi to Praça dos Restauradores (Restaurant Square). We arrived there and walked into the tourist information office. We went there specifically to buy a LisboaCard. The LisboaCards provide access to all public transportation. Also, they offer discounted or free access to many of the local attractions and museums. For 48 hours, one card cost 29.50€ (US$36). We thought that was a good bargain.

In the center of the Praça dos Restauradores is a large obelisk. Erected in 1886, it marked Portugal’s independence from Spain in 1640. While walking around the plaza, we were able to find a magnet for Leslie’s collection as well as a Lisbon guidebook. For lunch on the square, we opted for the Hard Rock Café. We must have all been starving, hardly speaking during the meal. We each enjoyed our sandwiches. We gladly paid the 54€ (US$65.90) and moved on.

Crossing Praça dos Restauradores (Restaurant Square) to the Hard Rock Cafe.

The obelisk near the VIP Executive Éden Aparthotel.

Tyler and Leslie trying to decide on what to have for lunch.

Leslie and Tyler observing the many decorations in the restaurant.

We walked south out of the plaza. We immediately saw the Santa Justa Lift, our destination. Along the way, we walked by the train station and through Praça Dom Pedro IV.

The small side-street of Tv. de Santo Antão.

The uniquely framed doors to Estação Rossio (Rossio Station).

Looking toward Praça do Rossio (Rossio Square). The castle of St. George is atop the hill in the distance.

The obelisk in Praça Dom Pedro IV (Dom Pedro IV Square). Pedro IV was briefly the King of Portugal. He was also the Emperor of Brazil.

A seagull and some pigeons at the square.

One of the water fountains in the square.

The water fountain with the obelisk in the background.

Ultimately we arrived at the Santa Justa Lift. An apprentice of Gustave Eiffel built the elevator in 1902. At 45 meters (148 feet), the top platform provides some breathtaking views. This attraction was the first place at which we were able to use our LisboaCard. Because of the card, our ride on the elevator was free. The elevator car was spacious, probably ten feet by ten feet. We rode up with about a dozen other people.

Once the elevator car stops, one may choose from two circular staircases, each leading up two levels to the uppermost viewing platform. From the platform, the view of the Baixa District of Lisbon is spectacular.

Our first view of the Elevador de Santa Justa (Saint Justa Lift).

The operator of the lift stands in the corner.

Looking north from the elevated observation deck.

A panorama of the view toward the Tagus River.

The Convento do Carmo as seen from the observation deck.

Beautifully ceramic tiled buildings along Rua Áurea (Golden Street).

View to the north through the railing of the observation deck.

Rua Santa Justa as seen from the observation deck.

Departing the elevator, we walked a couple of blocks east to the Rua Augusta, a pedestrian street with lots of shops, restaurants, and street performers. Along the way, we stopped at a small ceramic shop. We bought a little holy water font that is a reproduction of a 15th Century style. Leslie also purchased a beautiful dish towel. She plans to use it as a centerpiece on our kitchen table.

We stopped at a street café, Roman’s. We each had a drink and watched the world. Very near the café was one of the most unique street performers I have ever seen. The man wore clothing and makeup that made him appear to be a bronze statue. The amazing part was that his feet were about one foot above the ground. His left hand was on a cane that did touch the ground. Other than that single point, there were no visible means of support. I am not sure how he balanced himself in such a manner. On the ground in front of him was a poster size piece of paper. Among other things, it recorded three different records he held in the Guinness Book of World Records. The most recent of which was from 2003; he stood in his position for more than 20-hours straight!

Cork postcards for sale along Rua de Santa Justa.

Looking back toward the Santa Justa Lift.

A lot of pedestrians on Rua de Santa Justa.

A man photographing the Santa Justa Lift.

Café tables in the middle of Rua Augusta.

A couple window-shopping at a tailor shop on Rua Augusta.

The amazing floating man on Rua Augusta.

A side view of the amazing floating man.

We left him and continued our stroll along Rua Augusta to the Praça do Comercio (Commercial Square). That plaza is enormous and right at the edge of the Tagus River. To get into the plaza, we walked under the Arco da Rua Augusta. It is a striking architectural feature. In the center of the square is a giant bronze statue of Dom Jose I.

We spent a little time at the water’s edge listening to a local band. They were entertaining. We left there and walked to the Terreiro do Paço Metro station. From there we made it back to our hotel for a well-deserved nap!

Pedestrians walking by shops on Rua Augusta.

A ceramic tile “sign” above a door on Rua Augusta.

The Valentines Day display still in the window on Rua Augusta.

People near the Arco da Rua Augusta at the end of the street. Walking under the arch, one enters the Praça do Comércio (Commercial Square).

A seal on the wall near the Fashion Museum.

The Arco da Rua Augusta as seen from the Praça do Comércio.

A statue of Dom Jose I in the Praça do Comércio. He reigned as King of Portugal for nearly 27 years in the 18th Century.

Leslie and Tyler watching the people in the Praça do Comércio.

The statue of the king with the arch in the background.

The 25 de Abril Bridge over the Tagus River.

Tourists at the Cais das Colunas (Columns Dock).

A train entering the Terreiro do Paço Metro station.

For dinner, we went to the Restaurante zé Varunca. I came up with that idea based on a recommendation from the travel guide, Lonely Planet. The restaurant was a little off the beaten track. It was in kind of a seedy-looking part of town. In fact, without the guidebook taking me there, I probably would not have entered the restaurant. Boy am I glad we went inside!

The rather dubious-looking Restaurante zé Varunca.

The server brought us warm bread in a cloth bag to keep it warm. It tasted like sourdough bread. Then the server brought a platter of items from which we could select a starter. We chose the black olives. To drink, Leslie and I wanted the red wine. The server poured the wine into a ceramic pitcher and brought it to our table. The pitcher and the plates were all rustic, each one with the name of the restaurant.

The decor in the restaurant was a hunting lodge look. There were open beams in the ceiling. On the walls were several copies of publicity articles for the restaurant over the years. At the head of each table, on the wall, was a small mural made of tiles. They were each about two tiles by four tiles. Each depicted a different country scene. Hanging under the beams were old streetlight fixtures.

For dinner, Tyler had monkfish/shrimp soup. He and Leslie both thought it was tremendous. Leslie had lamb chops. I had lamb (very unusual for me) in rice with a rich brown broth. The dinner reminded us of what one might have gotten many years ago at a hunting lodge.

After dinner, the check was rolled up and placed in two shotgun shells, one 20-gage, and one 12-gage. We found that unique. Our server for the evening, Orlanda, said we could keep the rounds. Our bill came to about 55€ (US$67). I do not think any of us finished our main course. They were just too large. Like Lonely Planet, I recommend the restaurant.

Once back at our hotel, I realized I left my prized baseball cap at the restaurant. Leslie and I scrambled back to the restaurant to retrieve the hat. Reunited, she and I returned to the hotel for the night.