Tag: Musician

Finally Some Oxygen!!

Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Bolivia – April 6, 2019

Departing from La Paz, one must always wake up early. Fortunately, when it is a domestic flight, it is not crazy early. Our driver from Mujeres al Volante (Women at the Wheel) was right on time for our 05:00 pick up from home.

When we can, we use Mujeres al Volante to get us around La Paz. As one can tell from the business name, it is an all-female taxi service. We like that idea because it gives women a chance they might not otherwise have. The service operates, in part, via WhatsApp. After arranging for a pickup, the service sends a text message via WhatsApp with the name, photograph, and cellular phone number of the driver. Additionally, one also receives a picture of the vehicle, including the license plate. That allows for confirmation of the ride before getting in the car.

In our experience, each driver is very kind. Each driver is also very conscientious and safe. For example, this morning, our driver stopped at every red light. That may not be all that unusual in La Paz; however, our driver remained stopped until the light turned green. That is a bit unusual. Several other drivers stopped or slowed, only to continue through the intersection. Those few stops did not hamper our progress. We quickly and safely made it to the airport at El Alto by 05:45.

It was quick and easy to check-in for our 07:30 Boliviana de Aviación (BOA) flight. After clearing the security checkpoint, we sat at Uyu café. We both had a coffee. Leslie also had a toasted ham and cheese croissant. She said it was unusually delicious, especially for airport food.

Cloudy conditions did not interfere with the air traffic. We had no problems seeing our BOA airplane arrive at the jet bridge. About 30-minutes after the aircraft arrived, we boarded. Then, right on time, we pushed back from the gate at 07:30.

Our Bolivian Airlines jet approaches the boarding gate.

At roughly 4,115 meters (13,500 feet), there is not an abundance of oxygen. The main runway at El Alto International Airport is 4,000 meters (13,123 feet) long. It seemed our airplane used about 3,990 meters of the runway before finally lifting off the ground. Even jet airplanes have trouble at that altitude. Quite frankly, that is no doubt part of the reason for so many early morning flights. As the air heats up during the day, the lifting capacity of the air diminishes.

La Paz nestles amongst the mountains and cliffs along the west side of the Andes. Santa Cruz de la Sierra, our destination, is about 554 kilometers (344 miles) east and south of La Paz. That meant our flight went directly over the Andes. Seeing some of the highest peaks in Bolivia from the air is beautiful. Two offered some breathtaking views that morning, Illimani (6,438 meters/21,122 feet) and Huayna Potosí (6,088 meters/19,974 feet). Illimani is the second highest peak in Bolivia, Huayna Potosí is the fifth highest.

We landed at Viri Viri International Airport right on time, 08:35. As soon as we deplaned, we both felt like Olympic athletes! There was more oxygen than our bodies had encountered in quite some time! We felt like we could jog to the hotel. A mere 55-minutes later we arrived at the Marriott Hotel…via a van.

The reason for our oxygen “high” was because we were low. In a little over one-hour, we transitioned from 4,115 meters to 416 meters (1,365 feet); about a 90-percent decrease in altitude! We were as giddy as junior high school kids…well maybe not, but we sure felt great!

After brunch at the hotel, we got in a taxi and headed to the Cathedral of Santa Cruz. Our driver let us out on the west side of the Central Plaza. The beautifully landscaped plaza covers one city block, containing many sidewalks. At the center of the square is a statue of Colonel Ignacio Warnes (1770-1816). He famously liberated the city of Santa Cruz in about 1813.

A statue of Colonel Ignacio Warnes in the center of the Central Plaza.

From the moment we exited our taxi, we heard a band playing. As we walked through the plaza, we headed toward the cathedral at the southeast corner of the square. In formation and at the front of the cathedral, was the Banda Intercontinental Poopó (the Poopó Intercontinental Band). The band hails from the Bolivian city of Oruro. The group, formed in 1964, it is famously known for playing Bolivian folk music. Every year the band performs during Carnaval in Oruro.

There were about 50 band members on the steps in front of the cathedral. Their uniforms are distinct, each member wearing a red jacket with gold and yellow accents. The jackets have the name of the band emblazoned diagonally across the chest. Dazzling white slacks offset the red coats. Each side of the pants also carries the name of the group. The white shoes are like none I have ever seen. To top it all off each member wears a brownish hardhat that carries the name of the band.

When we arrived, dozens and dozens of people surrounded the band, enjoying the music. The first song we heard was the Bolivian national anthem. After the anthem, they segued to a Bolivian folk song. We listened and watched for several minutes before entering the cathedral.

The Poopó Band playing in front of the cathedral.

The band smartly lined up on the stairs.

The pants and shoes are pretty snappy too!

The Cathedral of Santa Cruz, completed in 1915, is also known as the Basílica Menor de San Lorenzo Martir (Minor Basilica of St. Lawrence Martyr). St. Lawrence was a Spanish deacon martyred in Rome in 258. Inside, the altar that is opposite the entry point immediately draws one’s attention. The basilica is all brick and concrete except for the beautiful vaulted wooden ceilings. These vaulted ceilings are over the central aisle as well as the two side aisles.

We opted to walk along the right-side aisle toward the front of the basilica. A typical sight in a Catholic church is prayer candles. However, I have never seen them done as they were in the basilica. At strategic points, there are metal tables. Each table is about two-feet by four-feet with upturned edges. On the flat surface, worshipers place candles. The melted wax gathers on the tabletop without harming anything else in the basilica. In front of a crucifix and depictions of Mary and Joseph were two of these tables. Off to one side of the display is a hinged door with a small slot. Many worshipers place money in the slot while admiring the display.

Jesus on the cross with Mary and Joseph below.

Further along the aisle is a wooden and glass display case. Inside are depictions of Mary, Joseph, and a young Jesus. I am not sure who the depicted person is on the left side of the display. As with the crucifix display, another, albeit smaller, metal table for prayer candles sat in front of the display case. A donation box was also available.

This case depicts Mary in the center and Jesus and Joseph on the right.

The prayer candles in front of the display.

The next display was a life-size statue, possibly depicting St. Lawrence. Just beyond that statue, at the right side of the altar was a depiction of Mary. While we were there, a woman stood in front of the figure the entire time.

A woman standing in front of a depiction of Mary.

When crossing from one side of the basilica to the other, the enormous scale of the altar area is striking. The height and depth make it an expansive space, yet it does seem inviting. Because the Easter Season is approaching, purple draping is behind the altar and tabernacle. That is a pleasing offset to the wood ceilings and the mainly white walls and columns. It also makes the silver tabernacle visually pop from the space.

The base of the altar is unique. It appears to be hand-carved wood bas relief. The scene depicts Jesus among several Latinos. The Latinos are in relatively modern looking clothing, not clothing from their native past. Some of the men sport traditional hats. The lone woman does not appear to have her head covered at all. The painting of the bas relief helps bring the scene to life.

The purple draping in anticipation of Easter.

On the left side of the altar is a statue of Peter, complete with the keys to the Kingdom.

Outside the small chapel is another depiction of Mary and one of Jesus. Both have space for worshipers to place prayer candles. The chapel is small and cozy. The tabernacle is the focus of the chapel as it is in most Catholic churches.

Some prayer candles in front of a depiction of Mary.

The prayer candles in front of the statue of Jesus.

Leaving the chapel area, one encounters another bas relief. This bas relief depicts the Holy Trinity. It looks ancient.

A man and woman stop in front of the side crucifix.

We could hear the Poopó Band during our entire visit to the basilica. When we emerged, we saw some dancers performing between the band and the group of onlookers. At one point, a man from the crowd began dancing to the folk song played at that moment.

At the left is a man dancing to the music of the Poopó Band.

Dozens and dozens of people enjoying the band.

Three members of one of the dance groups.

Departing the basilica area, we opted to walk along the east side of the Central Plaza. Along the way, I spotted the “Barcelona” money exchange. Because of our time in Spain, I just had to take a photograph. We crossed the street and entered a tourist gift shop. After much looking, we spotted a hand-carved depiction of the Holy Family. Carved to appear like native Bolivians, both Mary and Joseph are unique. Even though we have a lot of Nativity scenes already, we could not resist this opportunity. The man that served us was very kind. He also agreed to have his photograph made while he was wrapping our purchase.

The cathedral as seen from the Central Plaza.

Looking south toward the cathedral along 24 de Septiembre.

The man from whom we purchased the wooden set of Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus.

Next door was another tourist shop. There we decided we had to have two Bolivian blankets. Much like the other store, the woman serving us was kind and posed for a photograph.

The woman from whom we purchased our “cholita” blankets.

At this point, it was near noon. We saw an Irish Pub on the second level of a shopping mall. It had open windows overlooking the Central Plaza. We decided that was the place to be. We walked upstairs and ordered a couple of beers. Since we had brunch at the hotel, we decided to snack on some French fries. Just as noted above, our server was kind and posed for a photograph. In return, she captured Leslie and me at our very best…

From our vantage point above the plaza, we saw a lot. I think one of the most interesting sights was the two chess tables set up at the side of the square, both occupied by chess players. For the entire time we were in the area, the Poopó Band played. They never took a break. I am sure they were exhausted whenever they finally did stop playing.

White flowers in a tree across from the Irish Pub.

Three costumed girls walking through Central Plaza.

It sounds German, but it is made in Bolivia.

One of the local security people in the Central Plaza.

Detail of the cross atop the cathedral spire.

The Santa Cruz municipal government building. The Bolivian flag is red, yellow, and green. The green and white flag is for Santa Cruz.

After our refreshments, we called for our taxi and returned to the hotel for a well-deserved nap.

The two “cholita” blankets we bought in a store just off the Central Plaza.

Before we departed La Paz, our good friends Joe and Tia told us we needed to eat at the steakhouse, La Cabrera. We made reservations there for our first night in Santa Cruz. Prior to arriving at the steakhouse, we had a glass of wine in the lobby of the hotel. Drinks complete, we got in our taxi and rode to the steakhouse.

The recommendation of the steakhouse was spot-on! The building is two-stories; however, once inside, one can see the steakhouse has three separate levels on which to dine. Our table happened to be on the ground floor. Once seated, the wait staff immediately greeted us and asked for our beverage preference. Oddly enough, we selected a bottle of wine. We had a bottle of Juan Cruz Tannat which was one of the most delicious wines I have experienced.

The bottle of wine we enjoyed with dinner.

For our starter, we selected Provoleta al Orégano (grilled provolone cheese with oregano). It was a superb way to begin our meal. We each chose the half-portion Argentinian steak for our main course. Brought to the table on a sizzling serving platter, it is almost like a fajita platter. The server cut a portion for each of us and placed it on our plates. About a dozen small ramekins containing a variety of sauces and dressings accompanied the steak. A fresh green salad came was also part of the fare. The steak, done to perfection, massaged the tongue with each bite.

I am glad we each ordered a half portion. The steaks were huge! Nearly the size of a dinner plate! I do not know what we would have done with the leftovers if we each had ordered a full steak. As it was, we could barely make it through what we had. Based on the previous sentence, one may wonder just why we ordered dessert…because we could!

Our dessert was some enormous chocolate concoction. While it was good, it was not my favorite. It may have lacked the real chocolate punch I expected. I am sure part of the issue is that I am not a big dessert eater anyway. Regardless, we both highly recommend La Cabrera. It is worth the effort to get there.

On Sunday we walked from the hotel to the Ventura Mall. The mall is an easy walk, only about one-half mile. The first store we entered was Supermercado Tia. WOW! What a grocery store! La Paz does not have that supermarket. It seemed we were in a whole different country.

The store has an entry to the mall. When we arrived, the mall was not yet open. That meant we spent our time wandering through the store. On the street side of the store was a small café. We each had a coffee and watched the other shoppers walk through the store. After our coffee, we joined the wanderers. The store had everything under one giant roof. We saw everything for which we usually shop. That is different than the area where we live. When we go shopping at home, it is not unusual to have to go to between two and four different stores to find everything we want. We made some mental notes of what we wanted to get from the store when we walked back to the Marriott.

When we entered the mall, we saw a modern, glistening, three-story structure. We strolled through every inch of the mall. On the upper level is a large movie theater complex. We almost went in to see a movie…almost. We decided not to go in because we did not see a film that we found interesting. So, we walked through a small hallway and discovered a large food court. There were some vendors we did not recognize, but there were many we did know; Kentucky Fried Chicken, Subway, and Burger King, to name a few.

We had not eaten at Burger King for a long time, so we decided that day was the day. We each ordered a flame-broiled Whopper, fries, and a drink. Leslie found a place to sit while I waited for our meal. That was when I noticed the flame broiling did not take place there. That appears to have happened elsewhere. A microwave heats the hamburger patties before placing them on the bun. The Whopper was ok, but it was not what we were expecting.

Leaving the food court, we stopped at Supermercado Tia to buy a few things and then walked back to the hotel. We spent the rest of the day lounging.

That evening, we had dinner at the hotel. At the entry to the restaurant, there is a large ametrine crystal, about 18 inches wide by 12 inches tall, a purple and white quartz only found in Bolivia, on display. I have no clue about the value of that piece. The stone contains both citrine and amethyst.

We had an excellent dinner topped off with Flor de Caña 18 rum…my kind of dessert!

A huge specimen of ametine at the Marriott.

An after-dinner drink of Flor de Caña 18.

On Monday, one of my tasks was to view the local Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) office. APHIS is a part of the United States Department of Agriculture. It was at that office I saw the most unusual wall painting. In the corner of the front garden is a 3-D mural. It depicts the mission of APHIS. The mural focuses on animal husbandry and wildlife from the high mountains to the lowlands, including farming, and then on to the big cities. According to the locally employed staff member, the mural, completed by a local artist, cost only US$200 nearly 15-years ago. I am sure I will never see another wall like that one.

Thursday morning, we boarded a plane to return to La Paz. The BOA Boeing 737 we boarded that morning was unusual. A sign at the front entry to the plan proudly announced, “Pope Francis flew in this aircraft from Quito to La Paz and from La Paz to Santa Cruz on July 8, 2015.”

Our plane waiting for us to board in Santa Cruz.

This sign as we entered the airplane read, “Pope Francis flew in this aircraft from Quito to La Paz and from La Paz to Santa Cruz on July 8, 2015.”

The flight to La Paz was quick and uneventful. Once we were on the ground, our bodies screamed that we seemed to have left a lot of oxygen behind! Even though we were only absent from La Paz for five nights, our bodies had to reacclimate to the thin air of La Paz. Regardless, it was good to be back home. We like the weather in La Paz much more than Santa Cruz. La Paz is cool and dry. Santa Cruz is hot and humid.

A worker’s legs dangling through the trellis at the pool area.

A panorama of Santa Cruz, looking east from the swimming pool deck at the hotel.

A Great Day for the Dead

La Paz, Bolivia – November 2, 2018

Today was the first time I ever saw Dia de los Muertos first-hand. I chose the La Paz Cementerio General for my visit. I was a little apprehensive because of the unknown and the fact that I was going by myself. Another reason for my apprehension was the odor. One of my work colleagues told me there was a foul odor at the cemetery because the tombs were not airtight. As an ex-cop, used to dealing with bodies that had, shall we say, “ripened,” I knew exactly what odor was being described. Spoiler alert – I did not encounter any noxious odors at the cemetery.

Dia de los Muertos (the day of the dead) is a traditional holiday in many Latin American countries. It is a day for remembering a family’s dead; but, more importantly, it is a time of celebrating the family members return from the afterlife for a visit. To that end, there are many offerings to entice the family member to visit and then to ease their return to the afterlife. The visits occur between noon on November 2 and noon on November 3; however, those times are not rigid.

A family can expect visits at either the tomb or grave of their loved one or at the family’s own home. In either location, family members place photographs and other items that the dearly departed loved during life. Additionally, things the loved one liked to eat or drink are also laid out as offerings. Those items can include bread, cookies, sweets, food, soup, soft drinks, beer, alcohol, cigarettes, etc.; virtually anything the loved one enjoyed.

The bread used for the Dia de los Muertos is interesting because of its many variations. One of the more popular shapes is the t’antawawa, an Aymara word meaning baby bread. A t’antawawa is in the approximate form of a baby’s body with a painted, ceramic face/head. They can range in size from tiny bread or cookies to nearly adult life-size. The food can also be in the shape of animals such as horses. Other bread shapes include the traditional dinner roll size, round loaves, ladders (to aid with travel to and from the afterlife), and crosses. It appears the maker’s imagination only limits the shape.

A work colleague shared with me that when setting up the offerings at home, their place of choice; they receive as many as 150 family members (living) throughout the holiday. That is a lot of people just to have drop by a home.

With that bit of preface, allow me to share my experience of Dia de los Muertos.

I walked out of my front door at 07:00. Green, Sky Blue, White, Orange, and Red. Those colors have nothing to do with the holiday nor are they colors I saw when I walked outside. Those colors just happened to be the five; that is correct, five, Teleferico lines I had to ride to get to the Cementario General.

While on the Orange Line of the Teleferico, I passed over the “illegal” cemetery, Cementerio la Llamita. I do not know if it is, in fact, an illegal cemetery. If it is unlawful, by deduction, that means that the regulations for burial are less strictly enforced. Therefore, it is such “illegal” cemeteries that may be the cause of my colleague’s comment regarding odor. I quickly tried to take a photograph, which is why the focus is not quite right.

A partial view of the “illegal” cemetery as seen from the Orange Line of the Teleferico.

At the end of the Orange Line, I changed to the Red Line. I only had one stop to go to be at the Cementerio General. I got off the Red Line and walked out of the Teleferico building. I noticed right across the street was an entrance to the cemetery. I do not believe that entrance is generally in use, just on select days. Approaching the gate, I saw a few small flower stands. Many cemetery visitors stopped to buy some flowers before entering.

A secondary entry to the Cementerio General (General Cemetery) in the northwest portion of La Paz.

The Cementerio General is the main, and quite large, cemetery in La Paz. The exterior wall of the cemetery is nearly 1.5 kilometers long (4,389 feet or 0.83 miles). That means the area covered by the cemetery is almost 10 hectares (24 acres). On the grounds, there are dozens and dozens of columbaria, some with as many as three levels. The “population” of the cemetery must be in the tens of thousands.

At the gate, Bolivian National Police searched the bags of everyone entering. As soon as I made it past that checkpoint, I faced multiple columbaria. At the end of the columbarium closest to me, I saw a mural with two painted skulls. Then I noticed that almost every columbarium had a painting at the end, even those with three levels. Much of the art was stunning. I did not photograph every mural, but I did capture a lot. At this point, the narrative will cease so the reader can view all of the paintings I captured. At the end of the mural photographs, the story continues.

My first view of the artwork on the end of a columbarium at the Cementerio General. The artist is Ñatinta, completed in 2017. The other name appears to be Llukutter.

A skull mural at the end of a cuartel (barrack) 53. This one is also by Ñatinta, completed in 2016. The other name appears to be S. Cuello.

The artist of this mural appears to be Tuer. The work appears to have been completed in 2018.

An intricate design surrounding a skull. This was done by Osek. It appears to have been completed in 2018.

Psychedelic skulls by Nando Pantoja and Angela in 2018.

A skull of a cholita by Pez Dani, probably 2018.

A collection of colorful flowers and plants, possibly by Tekaz. It was probably completed in 2018.

This work shows singers serenading at the tomb of a young man. Note the t’antawawa’s below the young man’s face. The style seems reminiscent of Picasso’s Guernica. It is possibly by TViore in 2017.

A woman and a young child by an unknown artist.

Some of the largest artwork at the Cementerio General is logically located at the end of the three-story columbaria.

This cholita and skull appear to be done by JP Zdas.

This portrait is by Ricardo Akn in 2018.

She seems to be watching all those who approach.

This three-story piece is done by an unknown artist.

Another psychedelic skull by Ñatinta in 2017.

The banner reads, “no tears for the final rest.” At the very bottom, it reads, “for all of the saints who rest in La Paz.” The artist’s initials appear to be TZV.

Angels with skulls and barbed wire halos. The artist is unknown.

A young person with flowers. The artist is possibly Stfil.

A stylistic skull surrounded by what appear to be cocoa leaves. The artist is Boos.

Flowers at the end of a columbarium by Ciclope.

A heart. The bottom reads, “the measure of life.” The artist is JP.

A skull at the end of a columbarium. The artist is Decoma.

A neon cholita. The artists are Huyllas and Natinta, done in 2018. The bottom left reads, “your voice will not be erased…my little soul.”

Some stylized coyotes. The artist is unknown because the name is partially obscured by the ladders.

Another view of the psychedelic skulls by Nando Pantoja and Angela in 2018.

Removing a mask by Mamo and Ñatinta from 2017.

Above this woman’s face are the words to a song often sung during the All Saints celebration. The artist is Willka in 2018.

Flowers growing from a bird held by a woman. The artist is Giova in 2018.

A skull with sunglasses and a hat. The word that continues from one columbarium to the other reads, “perpetual.” The artist is Ñatinta from 2016.

A child playing the violin. The artist is la Gabu.Z.

A Bolivian astronaut skull. The artist is unknown.

A blue skull. The artist is Alme in 2018.

Birds and a stylized face. The artist is unknown.

A cholita skull complete with the traditional braids. The artist is BLK from 2015.

A cholita from 2017. The artist is unknown.

Three couples from 2016. The artist is unknown.

A contemporary view of children/teens from 2016. The artists are Bufón81 and Afta17.

A young person’s memories of La Paz from 2017. The artist is Bufón81.

Mary and the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The artist is unknown.

A stylized angel embracing a woman above a woman on a bed of skulls. The artist is unknown.

A blue skull and candles. The artist is unknown.

A mummy with an apple. The artist is unknown.

Some of the above photograph captions contain the word “cholita.” That deserves some explanation. Cholita refers to the women of the indigenous Aymara and Quechua tribes. In the not too distant past, cholita was a pejorative term. However, today, it has regained a particular popularity and resurgence in use. The cholitas are very distinctive with their bowler hats and long hair braids.

Looking down the aisles between the columbaria, I could see far into the distance. They seemed to go on forever. The columbaria here in La Paz look much different than those that one might see in the United States. In the U. S. each tomb is covered by an engraved headstone bearing the name and pertinent details of the person in the grave. In the Cementerio General, each monument has a glass door, usually with a small padlock. Behind the glass is a void of some eight to ten inches before the masonry seal on the tomb. On the masonry seals are the name and pertinent details of the person in the grave. Often the details include a photograph of the person. Filling the remainder of the void are offerings or representative items of things the person enjoyed in life. In some instances, there are metal holders on either side for vases of flowers.

Several very large columbaria vanish into the distance.

The inscription above this tomb reads “Dear Dad.” The offerings inside are things the deceased enjoyed; in this case, bread, cigarettes, Coca-Cola, and a clear beverage.

This father was obviously a huge Bolivar fan. Bolivar is a professional footbol team in Bolivia.

A man on a ladder tending to the tomb of a loved one.

The tallest, single-story columbaria I saw contained tombs seven high. The visiting family must use ladders to reach the uppermost graves. With the aid of the ladder, family open the glass door, remove dead flowers and old offerings. Once clean, the family places new offerings into the tomb, and the glass door closed.

A view to the east from the Bolivian Police columbarium.

Several empty tombs at the Bolivian Police columbarium.

Looking to the west atop the Bolivian Police columbarium.

A unique cross placement on a columbaria.

There is an initial fee and then annual fees after that to place a loved one in a tomb at Cementerio General. If the annual fees are not paid, after about three years, the remains are removed, cremated, and dealt with by cemetery personnel.

I did see a few graves in the ground with headstones, but that was by far the exception, not the rule. The columbaria were the norm within the Cementerio General.

I ultimately made my way to the main entrance of the cemetery. The church is there. The church was lovely inside, but it was not ornately decorated. Of particular note were the statue of the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus and another area with a depiction of Jesus in the tomb.

View toward the altar of the church in the Cementerio General.

A statue of the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus in the church at the Cementario General. The statue is known as the Viren de Copacabana.

A stained glass cross on the west side of the church at the Cementario General.

A depiction of Jesus in the tomb in the church in the Cementerio General.

Leaving the church, I saw a display containing many of the items that families might bring to the tombs of their loved ones. I was immediately drawn to the t’antawawas, probably because I had been given a t’antawawa cookie the day before by a work colleague. Those on display ranged from cookie-size to some made of bread that was approaching three-feet in length. At the exhibition, there was even a t’antawawa made in the shape of a horse. There were other bread designs, including one that reminded me of a colossal pretzel, bread crosses, and bread ladders. Huge onion plants partially framed the display. The families often use those, and large sugar cane stalks as decorations at the tombs.

A display of some typical items brought to the tombs of the departed in the Cementerio General.

The display of offerings is located just outside the church in the Cementerio General.

A detail of some of the offerings typically brought to the cemetery. Note the t’antawawas on either side of the cross. Also, note the t’antawawa in the shape of a horse in the upper left.

The offerings can also include beverages and food.

I sat down at a bench near the display. I stayed there for quite a while, watching the people streaming into the cemetery. Many of them stopped to view the exhibition, some even taking photographs as I did. Others merely walked on by, destined for the family tomb. While I sat there, I saw a couple of men dressed in medium blue clothing wearing hard hats. One, in particular, made frequent eye contact with me. It dawned on me that they were probably masons, available for hire by the families to make any needed repairs to tombs. I ultimately approached one of the men. He confirmed he was, in fact, a mason, waiting to be hired by an incoming family. He was kind enough to allow me to take his photograph. Unfortunately, I was not thinking, so I failed to get his name. Regardless, he was very nice.

Since this was at the main entry point, many people stopped to view the display of offerings.

Some people simply walked by the display without stopping to look.

The Bolivian Police checked all packages at the entry points to the Cementerio General.

This mason was kind enough to allow me to take his photograph. I neglected to ask his name.

After my rest on the bench, I continued walking through the cemetery. I did find a large map of the grounds. It is truly astonishing just how many columbaria are at the cemetery.

In the eastern portion of the cemetery, I noticed several tombs that had QR codes. If one captures the code with a smartphone, information about the person buried there is displayed. I did not do that, but I did come across two vast tombs that were obviously of revered Bolivians. The first was the tomb of Carlos Palenque Avilés, 1944 – 1997, a famous Bolivian singer and politician. The second large tomb was that of Germán Busch Becerra, 1903 – 1939, a military officer and ultimately a President of Bolivia.

The tomb of Carlos Palenque Avilés in the Cementerio General.

The tomb and monument to Germán Busch Becerra.

A columbarium with an angel statue in the Cementerio General.

These columbaria do not seem to be so crowded.

The columbarium at the rear reads, “Union Workers Welfare Society, founded on the first of May, 1909.

Two people carrying a ladder while the Teleferico moves nonstop overhead.

An art deco styled angel in the Cementerio General.

Stained glass crosses at a mausoleum In the Cementerio General.

The oldest tomb I saw in the Cementerio General. Note the QR code in the lower right.

A columbarium with high-ranking Bolivian army officers in the Cementerio General.

Various sizes of ladders propped up beside a columbarium in the Cementerio General.

Ladders are strategically placed throughout the Cementerio General.

I found a mausoleum dedicated to those that had fought in the Acre Campaigns. That was a border dispute between Bolivia and Brazil at the turn of the 20^th Century. Bolivia was the victor in the fighting.

The exterior of the columbarium for the Benefit Society of the Country for those in the Acre Campaigns.

The interior of the columbarium for the Benefit Society of the Country for those in the Acre Campaigns.

The columbaria seem to stretch on forever.

Ladders at the ready at the end of a columbarium.

The access alleys to the columbaria begin to fill up with people.

The sun coming over the edge of the roof of a columbarium seems to beckon one to heaven.

Looking through the ground floor level of a three-story columbarium.

The mausoleum of the Dr. Abigail Mendoza family.

The stained glass of Mary and Baby Jesus in the mausoleum of the Dr. Abigail Mendoza family.

Detail of the stained glass of Mary and Baby Jesus in the mausoleum of the Dr. Abigail Mendoza family.

In all of my wanderings in the cemetery, I never saw any sadness. I never saw any family members weeping. The Dia de los Muertos seemed to be more joyous than a sad occasion. I did find out that families can hire people to cry at the tomb. I did not personally witness that. However, I did see families that hired musicians to play and sing at the graves. One of the more noteworthy groups were about ten boys playing drums and Bolivian pan flutes. They did an excellent job and amassed quite a crowd of onlookers. I did come across another group of boys with drums, but they did not seem to be as polished. In fact, a woman walking by the group covered her ears.

A group of young boys performing at a tomb in the Cementerio General.

The group of boys performed in front of a tomb bedecked with offerings of bread, fruit, and drink.

One woman’s music is another woman’s noise.

During my walk, I stopped at one point when I saw a man and his young son. The man was struggling with one of the ladders. I asked him if he needed assistance. He politely declined.

One of the more narrow areas between columbaria.

There never seemed to be a shortage of ladders.

A young girl running around while musicians are playing in front of a tomb.

A woman taking a selfie atop the ladder in front of her loved one’s tomb.

Women working together to clean out a tomb in preparation for newly placed offerings.

The offerings consisted of bread, t’antawawas, onions, fruit, and a drink in a thermos.

Another of the endless aisles of columbaria.

A family preparing to go up the ladder with some offerings.

Strategically placed throughout the cemetery are sinks and water spigots. The visitors use these stations to clean items from their loved one’s tomb. Most often, the items cleaned are flower vases. Near each sink are rubbish bins in which the old flowers are placed. Workers come by periodically to police the area and take the rubbish to large 30-yard trash bins. In turn, those are removed from the cemetery by large trucks from the local trash service.

People washing vases while an employee collects the discarded flowers.

A man and a mason discussing needed repairs at a tomb.

A mason with his tools of the trade rounding the corner.

After all of my wanderings in the cemetery, I decided it was time to head home. I walked to the main entrance of the cemetery. Not far from there was an exit. As I stepped onto Avenida Baptista I noticed the street was closed for the holiday. There was a real carnival atmosphere. One of the first things I saw was an art deco building that reminded me of a building in Wellington, New Zealand (see the posting Wellington Museum).

This art deco style building is across the street from the Cementerio General.

Avenida Baptista on the front side of the Cementerio General.

There were a couple of zebras walking on the sidewalk. The zebras are people in costume. The La Paz Zebras were born as a way to help regulate traffic and avoid pedestrian/vehicle mishaps. The Zebras have been around since 2001. As I walked past, they both said buenas dias!

A rare sighting of two Zebras in front of the Cementerio General.

One of the streets heading off from Avenida Baptista had what seemed like dozens of stands of BBQ and other delicious smelling foods. I wanted to try some, but I did not since Mr. E. Coli had just visited me. While on that street, I ran into a shoe shiner. Many of the shoe shiners keep their faces covered because they do not want their friends and family to know that is what they do to earn money.

Directly across from the main entrance to the cemetery is a small mall with nothing but flower shops. While I was there, it was doing a booming business.

A panorama of Avenida Baptista in front of the Cementerio General.

Two women walking toward the Cementerio General.

The young man in the light blue jacket is a shoe shiner.

Some flowers for sale across from some wonderful smelling BBQ.

The main entrance to the Cementerio General.

Part of the flower market directly across the street from the Cementerio General.

People walking by Rebecca’s Flower Shop.

I began walking east along Avenida Baptista. Luckily, it was all downhill, so I did not have to grapple with gravity very much. As I noted above, the street was closed to traffic. Instead of vehicles, the road was packed with vendors of every ilk; ladies’ lingerie, plasticware for children, handmade wooden items, DVDs, ice cream, fruit, etc. It was varied and noisy as some vendors shouted out what was available. Pedestrians choked the parts of the street that were not covered by vendors. I can only imagine the scene later in the day when it would no doubt be busier.

An interesting looking building on Avenida Baptista.

Selling colorful plasticware for children.

A woman waiting to make an ice cream cone for the man and his daughter.

At the Garita de Lima park roundabout, I stopped to take in the sights. That is where I saw the Evangelical Baptist Church and the Hospital La Paz.

Two artificial flower vendors at the street market.

View downhill from the roundabout at the Garita de Lima park on Avenida Baptista.

The Evangelical Baptist Church across from the Garita de Lima park on Avenida Baptista.

Departing the Garita de Lima park roundabout on Max Paredes, I saw something that very much reminded me of home, the kitchen gadget salesman. A man set up a portable table in the street. The edges of the tabletop held about four dozen oranges. In the middle of the table, there was a pile of different colored plastic gadgets. The salesman, speaking loudly and rapidly, demonstrated how one could insert the device into an orange and quickly obtain the juice. He had several people standing around watching his demonstration. I am not sure if he sold any to that crowd.

A juicing device salesman on Max Paredes.

The street market met vehicles just east of the Garita de Lima park on Max Paredes.

The mix of vehicles and pedestrians on Max Paredes. Note the van has the Cementerio General as one of its destinations.

It is tight quarters walking this section of Max Paredes.

Shortly after passing the kitchen gadget salesman, the street opened to traffic once again. At that point of Max Paredes, there were still vendors; however, they were relegated to the sidewalk or curbside. This area is where the food market begins. It is set up in specific sections. There are sections for vendors selling fruits, vegetables, cooking spices, lentils, fish, and meat. There were even a couple of fabric vendors thrown in for good measure. Between the vendors, pedestrians, and vehicles, one has to be careful while walking.

The vendor points and provides answers to a patron’s questions.

This woman was advertising in a loud voice what she had for sale.

A woman preparing a fish for a customer.

A woman at a meat stand along Max Paredes.

Yet more meat available near the Max Paredes roundabout.

Women selling lentils along Max Paredes.

The fruit section of the Max Paredes market.

A cholita walking through the fruit section.

All the bananas one could possibly want.

The vendor tried to entice the young girl with the dog to buy some bananas.

A cholita at a fruit stand on Max Paredes.

The fabric section of the market on Max Paredes.

One of the many Dodge buses operating in La Paz.

The statue in the roundabout at Max Paredes.

After walking nearly a mile (1.3 kilometers), I found Sagarnaga, the street for which I had been searching. That street would take me to the Witches Market and the Basilica of San Francisco. I was quite happy that my walk from the cemetery to the Basilica was downhill.

In the Witches Market, I did a little shopping. I found several touristy items that I could not live without.

The cobblestone Sagarnaga descends to the San Francisco Basilica.

Sagarnaga continues downhill from the Witches Market.

A yarn covered light-pole in the Witches Market.

A taxi preparing to turn from Melchor Jimenez onto Linares in the Witches Market.

A newly completed mural on Melchor Jimenez in the Witches Market. The artist is Tikay Marsh Aner.

Searching for bargains in the Witches Market.

A llama mural in the Witches Market. The artists are Sebollin, Jonatan, Marbot, and Ahau Flamma.

A display of items for sale in the Witches Market.

A typical tourist shop in the Witches Market.

A mural in the Witches Market. The artist is unknown.

When I finished shopping, it was lunchtime. I was not that hungry, but I did want to sit down for a while. I found Luna’s Restaurant Coffee Pub. I asked the man that greeted me at the door if he had a cold beer. He said he did so I immediately sat down! I continued to talk to him as he came by my table intermittently. I discovered he was Tomas Luna, the owner. We had a pleasant conversation. He was kind enough to allow me to take his photograph.

While sitting at Luna’s, I received two unexpected “guests;” Hillary and Leslie. They called me. They were both anxious to hear about my Dia de los Muertos activities. I told them a little bit but added that they would have to wait for my blog to get the rest of the story.

An ice-cold Paceña cerveza at Luna’s Restaurant Coffee Pub.

Tomas Luna, the owner of Luna’s Restaurant Coffee Pub.

Unexpected guests while I was having my beer.

The owner at the door to his restaurant, Tomas Luna.

San Francisco Basilica is visible in the distance.

Sagarnaga was virtually empty because of the holiday.

From Luna’s, it was just a few blocks down to the Basilica San Francisco. The last time I was there, it was after my CLO walking tour (see the Witches Market post). That time, the Basilica was not open. This time, to my surprise, it was open. I walked inside. Immediately I saw some huge signs. I thought they said that one could not take photographs during mass. A mass was in progress, but I could tell it was at the very end. I heard the priest give the final blessing, and the people responded.

Soon the people were walking to the back of the Basilica to exit. That is when I began taking photographs of the very elaborate and beautiful altar. After about four or five clicks, I suddenly found myself in the company of a Bolivian National Policeman. He was not amused. He said something in Spanish and pointed furtively to one of the signs. In my best Spanish, I tried to tell him I thought I could take photos when mass was over. The officer impatiently pointed at the sign again. I said I was very sorry and beat a hasty retreat to the exit.

The altar at the San Francisco Basilica.

The choir loft at the rear of the San Francisco Basilica.

The last portion of my journey was several blocks downhill from the Basilica to the Light Blue line of the Teleferico. Between that line and the Green line, I made it back to my neck of the woods and ultimately home. I arrived at my house at about 14:00.

A mural at the Mercado Camacho near the Celeste Line of the Teleferico.

Next year, I will return to the cemetery. I will probably go at a different time to see how that may change my experience. I thoroughly enjoyed my day.

A skull along via 33. The artist appears to be Zamir. The brilliant color indicates it was completed in 2018.

I Arrived Before I Left

Los Angeles, CA – March 10, 2017

March 10 was an odd day because I arrived in Los Angeles before I left New Zealand. The International Dateline is an amazing imaginary line on the planet.

I am not much of one for numerology, but I found it unique that my flight was NZ6; it departed from gate 6, and my seat number was 6K.

The flight pushed back from the gate at 19:42 (on March 10), eight minutes early. Once we made our cruising altitude, the flight attendants began serving. The meal started with the following:

Prosciutto with radicchio salad, asparagus, grilled artichokes and blue cheese.

Roasted chicken breast with roasted cauliflower and currant couscous, green olive tapenade salsa and broccolini.
A selection of fine New Zealand cheese served with plum and tamarillo chutney and cracker selection.

After dinner, I settled in to watch a movie. I started with La La Land because of all the hype, but it did not last long. I could not get into the film. I switched to A Cat Named Bob, but I had the same result. I ended up watching The Rocky Horror Picture Show, a movie I have probably seen a dozen times.

Finished with the movie, I went to sleep with my other 28 roommates. It surprised me how bumpy the flight was, all through the night.

When I awoke, I asked for a cup of black coffee. It was very relaxing to drink my coffee while listening to Vivaldi. Then came breakfast:

Fresh fruit salad with a croissant.
Omelette filled with sun dried tomato and spinach mornay, roasted tomato and piccata ham.

I arrived at LAX at about noon (on March 10). That was nearly eight hours before I left New Zealand!

The large sign near the Los Angeles International Airport.

I checked into the Marriott Residence Inn on Century Boulevard. One thing I wanted to do was visit the In-N-Out Burger near LAX. Mr. Google was kind enough to let me know the restaurant was only about one mile from the hotel. I decided to walk.

In about 20 minutes, I was within a few hundred feet of the In-N-Out Burger. I stopped there because I was directly underneath the flight path for runway 24R at LAX. It was fascinating watching the planes overhead, seemingly so close that one could almost touch them. When I tired of that, I finished my walk to the restaurant.

In the parking lot, one must navigate through the endless stream of vehicles in the drive-through lane. Entering the In-N-Out Burger, I was instantly in a sea of people. I was soon able to discern there were three less than perfect lines leading to three cash registers. I began my wait about seven or eight people from a cash register. I used my time to review the surprisingly short and inexpensive menu. For example, for only $5.95, one could have a cheeseburger, French fries, and a drink. That was my meal of choice.

After ordering, the sea of people shifted a little to one side while everyone waited for their order. I found a small piece of real estate near the drink machines on which to stand. From that vantage point, I could see there were nearly as many employees behind the counter as people were waiting. The choreography was amazing as an endless stream of orders made their way through the galley and back to the front counter for distribution.

Soon, I heard my order number called. I picked up my order and walked out. There are several tables outside. I found an empty table on the south side that was directly adjacent to the flight path for runway 24R. I sat there enjoying my lunch, thrilled by each jet that flew by me. It reminded me of watching the planes landing at Princess Juliana International Airport in Sint Maarten (please see my St. Maarten post).

An American Airlines jet on final approach to runway 24R at LAX.

I walked back over to the flight path when I finished lunch, to watch a few more jets. That was when I saw an Emirates Airlines A380 fly overhead on final approach. For those that do not know, an Airbus A380 is a double-deck airplane, the largest passenger airplane in the world. Watching that lumbering beast approach, I found it hard to believe that nearly 1.5 million pounds (700 tons) of metal can fly. The plane appears as though it should fall out of the sky.

An Emirates jet on final approach to LAX.

The second item on my to-do list for the day was to visit Venice Beach. I hailed a taxi and sat back for my $40 ride.

The taxi driver dropped me off at North Venice Beach Boulevard and Ocean Front Walk. I walked through the parking lot and across the beach. I stood there, watching the Pacific Ocean roll onto the beach.

Back on Ocean Front Walk, people were swarming and strolling along in both directions. Mostly food outlets and tourist shops populate Ocean Front Walk. I began my stroll heading north. I quickly noticed one additional type of shop, medicinal marijuana. Each medical marijuana shop had several people standing in front. As pedestrians stopped, the medical marijuana staff tried to determine what medical problems the pedestrian may have and if medical marijuana was the cure. As anyone who knows me might imagine, I kept walking.

Pedestrians walking past The Green Doctors outlet.

Very shortly, I found myself standing near a garish orange building at Muscle Beach. There were a few weightlifters in the “weight pen.” I enjoyed seeing something I had heard about for so many years but never visited.

A man coaching another man at the weight pen at Muscle Beach.

Near the “weight pen” were some benches. I sat on one of the seats and watched the other people on Ocean Front Walk. I captured photos of many of them.

A little farther along, I found Zoltar in front of some small shops. The fortune-telling Zoltar machine had a starring role in the film Big. It was a wish at Zoltar that turned a 12-year old boy into an adult, played by Tom Hanks. I do not know if this may have been “the” Zoltar, but I took a photo anyway.

A Zoltar fortune-telling machine near the Segway kiosk at Venice Beach.

There were many eclectic people on the Walk. I saw a man playing a grand piano. Hunching over the keyboard meant I never saw his face. His mopish hair also made it difficult to see his face. Not far from him, I saw a man on a tricycle decked out in full mountain-man buckskin; including a fox hat. I do not know how he stood that outfit. I thought it was entirely too hot to dress like that. He was talking with some men that appeared to want to film him for some film.

A fully outfitted mountain man on Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach.

Ocean Front Walk is a pedestrian walkway. However, from time to time, a police car, a lifeguard car, or even a firetruck drove along the Walk.

A firetruck making its way through the pedestrians on Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach.

By far, the oddest sight was the Venice Beach Freak Show. It is a greenish-gray building on the Walk. The signs on the building touted such things as “See the Freaks of Nature,” “Lady Twisto,” and “Giant Rat.” Sitting on the stairs to the Freak Show was a bearded lady. In front of her, on the sidewalk, was a little man. They both tried to get passersby interested in buying a ticket for the Freak Show. I opted out.

The Venice Beach Freak Show building on Ocean Front Walk.

The last sight of the day was a man carrying a cross along the Walk. After seeing him, I found a taxi and rode back to the hotel.

A man bearing a cross along Venice Beach.

I was at LAX early the next morning for my flight to Denver. The trip was uneventful. The plane went right by Grand Junction, my final destination. I found myself wishing I could get off right there. Regardless, it was on to Denver. As we flew, it was easy to see just how much snow was still in the Rocky Mountains.

At the Denver International Airport, I had time to kill before my final flight. I went into a restaurant overlooking the tarmac. I had some nachos and a beer, something that is very hard to find in Wellington, New Zealand (the nachos, not the beer).

A long-awaited serving of nachos at Denver International Airport.

After a one-hour flight, I had finally made it to Grand Junction. I had not seen Leslie since the first part of February. Even worse, I had not seen our son, Tyler, since December 2014. It was a great reunion.

This Southwest jet is so close to the In-N-Out Burger, it seems it may fly-through to pick up an order.

A group of people appears to be deciding whether to patronize the food stand or The Green Doctors outlet.

Two women walking along Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach.

A man walking his bicycle along Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach.

Two skateboarders pass each other on Ocean Front Walkway.

A young boy riding his bike along Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach.

A weightlifter at Muscle Beach. In the background, several men look out onto Venice Beach.

A young man riding a bike at Venice Beach.

One of the shirtless men I saw walk by while I was sitting on a bench at Venice Beach.

A couple in Rollerblades at Venice Beach.

The orange building of Muscle Beach at Venice Beach.

A man playing a grand piano at Venice Beach.

A triple entendre along Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach.

Dozens of pedestrians walking along Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach.

The Sidewalk Cafe & Bar is on one side, while the Small World Books is on the other. This packed restaurant is on Venice Beach.

Several of the typical shops along Ocean Front Walk at Venice Beach.

A very colorful building at Venice Beach.

One of The Green Doctor medical marijuana evaluation outlets along Venice Beach.

People passing the Venice Beach Freak Show building.

A woman walking dogs along Ocean Front Walkway at Venice Beach.

Wats Everywhere!

Chiang Mai, Thailand – February 5, 2017

I arrived at the airport in Singapore with plenty of time to spare. I cannot stand to be late. I do not like the drama that comes with being late. It was lunchtime. I opted for Sweet and Sour Chicken at Central Thai.

With my belly full, I went through passport control and then sat down to wait for my flight to Chiang Mai, Thailand. I was on my way to a training class. The seating area was in the concourse as opposed to at the gate. There was an unmanned security checkpoint at the gate. That meant no one could sit in the waiting area. Once the security team arrived, I went through and sat in the gate area.

While I was waiting for my Silkair flight, a woman wearing a non-descript uniform approached me to ask if I would participate in a survey. I agreed. She read the questions to me from her iPad. In total, the survey took about five minutes. At the conclusion, she gave me a box containing a very nice pen engraved with “Changi Airport,” the name of the airport in Singapore.

Onboard the plane, I found my exit row aisle seat had more legroom than I think I have ever experienced. I did find it odd that those sitting in the exit row cannot place anything under the seat in front of them. All carry-on items went into the overhead bins. The second thing I found odd was one of the flight attendants sat in the exit row aisle seat across from me. I think it is much more common to see the flight attendants sitting in jump seats. Regardless, the three-hour flight was uneventful.

The Silkair flight arrived in Chiang Mai at about 17:40 local time. I quickly went through passport control and customs. With my baggage in hand, I arranged for a taxi. The taxi boss said the cost for the trip from the airport to the Le Meridien Hotel was 200 Baht (just under US$6).

The driver did not speak English. I certainly do not know the Thai language. Luckily, the driver had a translation app on his cell phone. He spoke into the phone in Thai, pressed a button, and I heard the question or statement in English. I responded in English, speaking into his phone. He played that back in Thai. We had quite a good conversation on the way to the hotel.

Elephants are a symbol of good luck in Thailand. These were in front of the Le Meridien Hotel.

About an hour after landing, I was at my hotel. Here comes the snobbish part…my room was lovely; but the room, bathroom, and entry area could have all fit within just the bedroom I had in Singapore.

The view from the room was generally to the west. The air quality was not good. Through the haze, I could make out Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep near the top of a mountain in Doi Suthep-Pui National Park. Periodically, various commercial jets rose diagonally across the face of the hill; ultimately rising above the horizon.

View of Chiang Mai, Thailand from the Le Meridien Hotel.

One afternoon, a group of us decided to walk to a Buddhist temple. I thought we would walk to the temple, go to a restaurant, and then return to the hotel. Little did I know the adventures that lay ahead.

A few blocks from the hotel, we arrived at the Tha Phae Gate that allows passage through the ancient wall that surrounds the old city of Chiang Mai. The wall provided protection, and the accompanying moat added to the level of security. This gate only allows for pedestrian traffic. Other portals allow vehicle passage.

This is one of several gates allowing entry to the ancient walled area of Chiang Mai. It is on the eastern wall.

We continued west along Rachadamnoen Road. Although it was not our final destination, we stopped for a quick look at Wat Phan On. A wat is a Buddhist temple. In Chiang Mai, there are around 300 wats; literally wats everywhere.

Entering the wat compound, one immediately sees a gilded chedi. A chedi is a burial structure. Those buried in the chedis are in a seated position. The chedis become a place for meditation. The chedi at Wat Phan On is directly across from the main temple. We took a quick look at the temple and left to continue our journey.

Our 2.5 kilometer (1.5 miles) walk concluded at the wat we sought, Wat Phra Singh ( วัดพระสิงห์ ). I included the Thai spelling because it is such a beautiful and unique alphabet. The wat dates from the mid-14^th Century. It is one of the most revered wats in Chiang Mai.

The beauty of the wat is stunning. One of the things that immediately caught my attention was the gilded dragon (nāga) at the entry to the main temple (viharn luang). The level of detail and ornamentation are incredible. An interesting point about this dragon and others I saw during this trip; they emanate from the mouth of another dragon.

Another view of the dragon in front of the main temple at Wat Phra Singh.

In the main temple, the gilded Buddha was huge and imposing. I must admit I do not fully understand the Buddhist religion, so a lot of the items and décor in each wat left question marks above my head. Regardless, the beauty was such as I had never seen before.

The Buddha in the main temple at Wat Phra Singh.

When we left Wat Phra Singh, we began walking east. I thought we were heading to dinner. I was wrong. Along Arak 5 Road we found Wat Inthakhin Sadww Muang. The wat is very small. That did not deter the decoration. Although tiny, it was beautiful inside. At this wat as well as at many other locations in Chiang Mai, one saw portraits of Rama IX Bhumibol Adulyadej the King of Thailand. The King died on October 13, 2016. The country was still in mourning during my trip. I believe the period of mourning lasts for one year.

A woman on the floor in front of the Buddhas at Wat Inthakhin Sadww Muang.

At Ratvithi Road and Ratchapakhinai Road, we came to 48 Garage. It was like a German beer garden plopped in the middle of Chiang Mai. My mates and I ordered a beer. While we sat there, a woman came to the table holding dozens of woven fabric bracelets. Those on display were country names; like Canada, U. S. A., and Sweden. However, she also twisted by request. One could select nearly any word or phrase, and she would weave it into a bracelet. Her work was fascinating. She completed a bracelet in about ten minutes. I did not get one. Many others did get bracelets with words and phrases that I will not bother to list here.

A bracelet maker at a beer garden in Chiang Mai.

Besides 48 Garage, there were several other bars and street food vendors. A couple of my favorite names were New York Pizza and Tacos Bell (yes, there is an “s”). Some of the guys ate various fare from the food vendors. I opted out. I had no desire to have a run-in with a runny tummy.

This stand, at first look, may be a Taco Bell. Actually, it is TacoS Bell. The “s” is very important in differentiating.

We went into a bar across from New York Pizza. What drew us in was the live band. Of all things, it was a Reggae band. The group consisted of three guitar players, a keyboardist, a trumpet player, and a drummer. They played very well.

Leaving the bar, several of my mates spotted a bar touting a “Shot Gun Beer Can Competition.” Much like the bracelet incident, I opted out. The bar employee willingly prepped beer cans for anyone wishing to compete. The preparation was putting a small hole on the side of the beer can, near the bottom. The competitor places their mouth over the small hole while holding the beer can upright. Then, pulling the tab open, the beer shotguns through the small hole and into the mouth in a matter of seconds. For those keeping score at home, the U.S.A. is in the lead with 322 cans downed. Several countries; such as Cyprus, Gambia, and Armenia, are tied for the last place with one can each. This is a popular sport. The leader-board tracks a total of 64 countries.

This tally board keeps track of the claimed national status of those that take on the shotgun beer can competition in Chiang Mai.

Continuing in the general direction of our hotel, we ended up at the Tha Phae Gate again. This time, the plaza on the east side of the gate had a didgeridoo band playing. Much like the Reggae band, they played very well.

About a half-block down the road from the plaza, we found the THC Rooftop Bar. THC is one of the chemical compounds in marijuana. I was a little worried that we might encounter a marijuana haven. We did not.

Had I been by myself, I am confident I would not have gone in, but… The front door to the stairs had a low head height. Many of the flights of stairs were a long way from OSHA safety standards. Regardless, we made it to the level below the bar. There, we found something more akin to a ladder than stairs. Making this all the dicier was the nearby sign; “SHOES OFF PLEASE If you have expensive shoes, take them upstairs with you! We take no responsibility! THANK YOU.”

One is required to take off one’s shoes before reaching the rooftop THC bar.

In addition to the sign, there was some wild graffiti on the walls. One of my mates and I stayed at that level for a few minutes. One of our other mates came back to the top of the stairs/ladder and coaxed us up. As I took off my shoes and climbed the very uncomfortable stairs/ladder, the horror of completing my walk to our hotel in my stocking feet continued to play over and over in my mind.

Having risen those last few feet, we were at the bar level. Much to my chagrin, to get to the final level, we faced one more stair/ladder. As if that were not enough, once I reached the last level, I saw dozens of small tables about 18 inches above the floor. To use the tables, one sat on pillows on the floor. As I squatted down and left my fate to gravity, the next horror show played in my mind; wondering how would I possibly get back to my feet.

When we prepared to leave, somehow, I made it back to an upright position. My mind was not on the very uncomfortable rungs, but rather on the actual location of my shoes as I descended my favorite stair/ladder. I could not have been happier if I had won the lottery; my shoes were still there!

From the THC Rooftop Bar, we began our walk again. Surprise, we stopped at yet another bar; the Baba Bobo Music and Restaurant Bar. Luckily, I recognized the street was the same one on which our hotel was located. Since it was well past my regular bedtime of 20:30, the entertainment value of our trek was waning. I decided to hit the eject button and walk the final 800 meters (one-half mile) back to the hotel.

Later in the week, I decided to walk to Wat Chiang Man. It is one of the oldest in the old city, dating from the late 13^th Century. My planned walk was about four kilometers (two and one-half miles). On my way, I walked by Wat Mahawan. I walked through the wat quickly and went on to Tha Phae Gate.

That day at the gate, there were many sights; tuk-tuks waiting for fares, a divey looking bar (probably one of the best places in town), and monks walking through the plaza.

Five Buddhist monks walking through the plaza at the Tha Phae Gate.

After passing through Tha Phae Gate, I walked to Wat Phan On. For those keeping track of what’s wat; Wat Phan On was the first wat I visited during this trip. It is the first wat I had ever seen. On my own, I had much more time to wander through the wat compound. It is beautiful. A few items I saw there that I had not seen in any other wat included small brass bells near a chedi, two large gongs near a chedi, and several inspirational signs. The signs are in both Thai and English. I think my favorite is “Self-winning is pretty good.”

Some additional inspirational signs at Wat Phan On. The sign on the left is a little difficult to read. It reads “Self-winning is pretty good.”

It was a warm afternoon, so I was hot when I arrived at Wat Chiang Man. At the main temple, as was the case with all the other wats, one had to remove one’s shoes before entering. At this temple, there was a guard dog of sorts. Actually, “guard” may be a bit of a stretch. The dog lay on the marble, not paying much attention to shoes or people. Odd, but at the temple, I did not have the same feeling of dread with leaving my shoes behind as I had at the THC Rooftop Bar.

People are expected to remove their shoes before entering the Buddhist temples. This is at Wat Chiang Man. Note the sleeping dog on the marble floor.

I thought the Chedi Chang Lom was fascinating. It is the oldest structure at Wat Chiang Man. That means it was built in the late 1290s. The many elephants emerging from the chedi at the base are all full-size.

This chedi is the oldest structure on the Wat Chiang Man compound. It dates from the late 13th Century.

The small side of the temple had two very beautiful dragons alongside the stairs. They are every bit as ornate and beautiful as the dragons at Wat Phra Singh.

The golden dragons guarding the side entry to a smaller temple at Wat Chiang Man.

I walked back to my hotel and took a nap. Shortly after waking up, a friend and his wife invited me out for dinner. We went to a food court about two blocks away from the hotel. I did not do any of the ordering, but I certainly helped with eating. The main course was a huge seafood boil served on some new paper used for printing newspapers. Rubber gloves helped one stay somewhat clean while eating the boil by hand. It reminded me of the meals I have had in Louisiana. To say it was delicious does not do it enough justice.

While I sat at the table with my friend, his wife and her friend continued bringing different fare from the various food vendors at the food court. If I had known the Thai street food was so good, I would have joined my buddies eating during the night of the “death march” and shotgun beer competition. I enjoyed every morsel of food I tried that evening; and best of all, no runny tummy!

On our way back to the hotel, we stopped for some shopping at one of the tourist bazaars. I found a wood-carved dragon that I had to have. I think it cost US$10. I bought several other gifts; such as embroidered bags, and various small, painted, ceramic elephants. My friend’s wife is Thai. That made it easy to “negotiate” with the vendors. They all spoke some English, but I am sure the back and forth in Thai helped make things easier.

For my last afternoon in Chiang Mai, I decided I would see something different; the Flower Market. I set out from the hotel on a sunny afternoon. Before going too far, I walked by Wat Upakhut. It was not “different,” but I am glad I decided to go in and explore.

In the main temple, two or three monks were wearing plastic gloves. They were mixing something in some large metal bowls. I am not sure what it was, but it must have been edible. From the ceiling hung what must have been donations. Ribbon-like holders were hanging from the ceiling. They each contained varying amounts of Thai baht. Each also had a card at the bottom with something written in Thai, possibly a prayer.

Monks at Wat Upakhut mixing something, apparently edible. Note the dozens of collections of Thai Baht hanging from the ceiling.

I took some interesting photographs in the compound. I think one of my favorites was that of two men working on restoring one of the dragons at the entry to the main temple. I enjoyed watching their handiwork in plaster.

Two men working to refurbish one of the dragons at Wat Upakhut.

I walked on to the north. As I approached the Flower Market, I found several gold shops. There was so much gold jewelry for sale; it was hard to see the individual pieces because of the bright glare.

The Flower Market was in a structure that one might liken to a department store. The flower vendors were on the Ping River side.

A portion of the flower market in Chiang Mai.

After all of my walking over the last few days, I was tired. I spent very little time in the Flower Market. When I emerged, I flagged down a tuk-tuk. I took my first ever ride back to the hotel. It was entertaining.

That night, I went back to the food court by myself for dinner. I arrived a little early, so I partook of a Thai foot massage. At times, it was much less than relaxing. A 30-minute foot massage was 120 baht (US$3.43). In Auckland, the only other place where I have seen Thai foot massages advertised, 30-minutes go for NZ$45 (US$32.64); ten times the price!

For dinner, I tried some of the grilled items. The pork and chicken on a stick were delicious. I had two of the pork on a stick and one of the chicken on a stick. To wash it down, I had one liter of Leo beer (a Thai beer). The total cost of my dinner came in at 220 baht (US$6.29).

Some of the available grilled items. The pricing is in Thai Baht. From the upper left 20 to the lower right 120, the U.S. equivalent is $0.60 to $3.53.

On Saturday, I caught my 200 Thai baht taxi back to the airport. From there, it was back to Singapore for another rest stop before flying back to New Zealand.