Tag: Motorcycle

Trip to the Airport

Trip to the Airport

Hyde Park, Guyana – November 2, 2013

Today is the day Leslie is due home after being away for four months. Her Caribbean Airlines flight was due in at 06:25. One of my colleagues was departing that day, so I shared a ride. That meant leaving home at 03:00. After dropping off my colleague, the driver and I sat in the VIP parking area, waiting for Leslie’s flight.
At about 06:00, I decided to go up to the observation area of the terminal. I got up there shortly after sunrise. Unlike the United States, many people here that are seeing off friends or relatives will wait at the airport until the aircraft is airborne before they leave. Many of them spend time in the observation area. I thought it was unique to see several people lined up in front of the window facing their reflections, waiting for their particular plane to depart.

Sunrise over the Cheddi Jagan International Airport in Guyana.

A young woman watching all of my picture taking in the observation area of the airport.
People waiting for their loved ones to arrive.
A Caribbean Airlines jet on the takeoff roll.

I decided I would take a photo of Leslie’s plane when it landed. Well, 06:25 came and went. Finally, at 07:15, I decided to leave the observation area. When I got back down to the waiting area, I saw on the arrival screen that the new arrival time was 08:15. So, I went back to the vehicle to wait.
Ultimately the plane landed at about 08:25. I went into the immigration area to wait for Leslie and to help with her luggage. After clearing immigration, we went to the baggage claim area to wait for her bags. We waited and waited and waited. The last bag came off the conveyor, but Leslie’s luggage was nowhere to be found. We walked over to the baggage inquiry counter. Although it was disappointing, Leslie described her bags to the agent. Hopefully, it will be found and delivered soon.
We took her carry-on and got in the Embassy vehicle. Since I had my camera with me, I decided to take some photos out of the window as we drove toward home. As the pictures show, we live in a fascinating place.

Visa consultation available near Georgetown, Guyana.

The Grove Post Office.
A typical home.
A home on the east bank of the Demerara River.
A crucifix on the grounds of the St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church.
More homes along the Demerara River.
A Hindu Temple near the Demerara River.
A newer home.
A “before” version of a newer home.
The Providence Primary School.
A small convenience store.
Some typical apartments/townhomes in Georgetown.
The neighboring lot remains vacant.
Another convenience store along the street.
Urban colors in Georgetown.
Large lily pads in front of a Georgetown home. The sign reads, “Quality Concrete Blocks Sold Here (All Sizes).”
In Georgetown, one is never very far from water.
Two newly constructed homes.
Looking west on Craig Street from Sheriff Street.
A home on Sheriff Street.
An unfinished building on Sheriff Street near Campbell Avenue.
A sales station for dog food at Sheriff Street and David Street.
Passing by the Sparendaam Police Station.
The Alyssa convenience store and auto sales.
The Bibi Jameel Hang Out Bar.
The Montrose Drainage Pump Station at the Atlantic Ocean.

Bourda Market

Bourda Market

Bourda, Guyana – October 26, 2013

If one wants fresh, inexpensive vegetables, Bourda Market is the place to go. Maybe better stated, it is one of the locations. There are many markets throughout Georgetown and the surrounding towns.
Bourda Market is just south of St. George’s Cathedral. It encompasses several city blocks. As best I can tell, only the most adventurous venture into the heart of Bourda Market. A recent newspaper article touts the Bourda Market shop owner on Orange Walk Street that was shot to death this past weekend. Regardless, if one can get past the “rough” nature of the market, this is a very convenient place to purchase fruits and vegetables.
One of the east entry points to Bourda Market draws one into a comfortable, innocuous space that has vendors on either side of the walkway/drive area. Most commonly found in this area are watermelons, pineapples, Guyanese green beans, tomatoes, etc. Continuing west, one encounters Orange Walk street. One of the many canals in Georgetown intersects that street. It is that area that begins to encompass the actual market area.

The Cummings Street entrance to the east side of Bourda Market.Adjacent to the canal and across from the mall is the beginnings of the many small vendor stalls that make up the authentic Bourda Market. For example, I have a watermelon “guy” in the market. One can get a very delicious, albeit small watermelon for G$1,000 (about $5). That may be expensive, but, this is Guyana. On this particular day, after I purchased my two watermelons, the proprietor began playing a game of catch with a helper, reloading the stand with more melons.

A watermelon vendor on the North Road side of Bourda Market.
Looking west along the canal and North Road.
Baskets beside the canal.
Vendor stalls line North Road at Bourda Market.
Some vendor stalls on the north side of the canal.

Throughout the market, there are more items available than just fruits and vegetables. There are shops selling baskets, clothing, books, chicken eggs, meat, etc. If one cannot find it here, one probably does not need it.

Along both Bourda Street and Robb Street, the pedestrian battles directly with motor vehicles. The vehicles are sometimes so close that one is worried about getting “flat” toes from the tires. Often there are just inches to spare. The drivers don’t let this bother them in the least. It is not unusual to see a driver stop, order an item from a vendor, pay for the prize, and then drive on, without ever leaving the driver’s seat.

Congestion on Bourda Street.
Pedestrians on Bourda Street.
Pedestrians and a moped on Bourda Street.
Much more congestion on Robb Street on the south side of Bourda Market.

There are even live chickens and ducks available in the market. Supposedly the owners of the stands will butcher and pluck the chickens purchased from them.

The chickens remain in Orange Walk, in front of the butcher shop.
Close view of chickens for sale on Orange Walk on the east side of Bourda Market.

The final affront to the U. S. senses may come at the public restroom. The door to the women’s side of the toilet (which by the way is standing wide open) has the hand-painted sign proclaiming the following:
Urination $20
Deification $100
Sort of a different twist on pay toilets.
Regardless, I believe it is definitely worth the experience to go to Bourda Market.

Paramaribo in December

Paramaribo in December

Paramaribo, Suriname – December 3, 2012

It is my second trip to Paramaribo, Suriname. I stayed at the same hotel, the Courtyard Marriott, but this time I had a room on the fifth floor overlooking the Suriname River. The views were beautiful in the mornings and evenings. I guess the river is about 0.5 miles to 0.75 miles wide at this point.

Sunset at the Suriname River.
Sunset at the Suriname River II.
The Suriname flag in front of a huge tree.

One day for lunch, I went to Baka Foto, which is in Fort Zeelandia, a historical complex built in 1667. The restaurant is on the riverside of the fort. One walks through a building, by the bar, and then emerges onto a covered patio that overlooks the river. The scenery always seems to be more spectacular when you are by water.

While we were sitting at the table talking, a relatively large lizard walked by. It was about 15 or 16 inches long, green and red, and its body was as big around as a large hot dog. It did not seem to be too concerned with our presence.

I had a “build your own” pasta dish. I ordered the corkscrew-shaped pasta, an Alfredo sauce, with shrimp and broccoli. I also had a mixed salad along with a club soda and a red wine. The pasta ended up being a considerable portion. It was delicious and very filling. My meal came to 50SRD. That equates to about US$17 or US$18.

When we finished lunch, we drove to the new embassy compound (NEC). One of my duties on each trip is to look at the NEC site and report back to Washington. I can’t remember the exact size of the site, but it is probably around five acres.

I walked the entire perimeter as well as out into the middle of the site. As I was walking toward the western boundary of the property along the northern edge, I could see five or six large blackbirds. They looked like vultures. As I got closer, one or two at a time would take to the air. When I got to the northwest corner of the property and looked south, I saw somewhere between 50 and 75 birds on the ground. It made me think of the Alfred Hitchcock movie, “The Birds.”

As I continued south, they all took to flight. It was quite a sight to see the birds circling in the air, backlit by the sun. I have no idea what attracted them to the site.

One morning, as the driver was taking me to the embassy, we saw the president of Suriname drive by in a black armored SUV. The Suriname flag was flying from the two front fenders. There was one chase vehicle behind. I was surprised there was not a police escort to whisk him through town. So when the traffic came to a halt, he did too.

One afternoon when I got back to the hotel I went for a walk. I walked about a mile back into town. At one point, I walked by a rum distillery. They make three different types. Along the street, there were signs for each one. They made excellent photo subjects.

I ultimately ended up at the sidewalk Cafe ‘t VAT. I sat down and had a 15SRD (about US$5) glass of Merlot.

From the café, I walked back toward the hotel. On the way, I came across a Chinese restaurant, Chi Min. I decided to eat there. I started with hot en sour soep (hot and sour soup) for $9.50SRD and zoet-zure kip (sweet and sour chicken) for $22SRD. It was not the absolute best Chinese food, but it was good.

In Suriname, a speed bump is a drempel.

A sign advertising a Surinamese beer.
A sign advertising free international minutes from Digicel.
The distillery for Hanappier brandy.
The sign for Mariënburg Rum.
The sign for Black Cat Rum.
A moped passing by in the late afternoon.
A car parked by a bus stop.
Flowers for sale beside the road.
A canal that drains to the Suriname River.
A man walking near the SUP sign. The sign translates as the foundation entertainment center Paramaribo.
A man walking by the entrance to the Palmentuin park.
A For Ur Male Entertainment poster at a bus stop.
An upcoming DJ event.
A police substation.
A panorama of the Suriname River.
Sunset at the Suriname River III.
Christmas lights near the hotel.

On the way to the main international airport, a one hour drive, I saw a sign for a car wash. It was hand-painted on a square piece of wood. The person that did the lettering did not take into account the number of letters. The sign looked something like this:

CAR
WAS
H

During this trip, I noticed several things that are much different from Guyana:

  • Squared off telephone poles (I am not sure why they spend the effort to do that)
  • Raised garbage bins in front of virtually every residence and business
  • Roads are in much better repair
  • Very few feral dogs
  • Animals are behind fences – very few horses, goats, etc. on the streets
  • Drainage canals are cleaner
  • Drivers are much more courteous – much less horn honking too
  • There is not the constant drone of loud music
  • The police force appears to be better equipped (because of that there seems to be better traffic enforcement)
  • Not as much visible poverty
  • They have a McDonald’s and Burger King!

It is much different in Suriname than in Guyana.

Suriname on TDY

Suriname on TDY

Paramaribo, Suriname – October 8, 2012

 

The driver dropped me at Ogle International Airport in Georgetown, Guyana this morning to catch a flight to Paramaribo, Suriname. It was at about 07:00. At the ticket counter, they weighed my bag. One is only allowed 33 pounds in one bag on Gum Air, also known as Trans Guyana Airways. My bag was 30 pounds. Much to my surprise, they weighed me too, 1/8 of a ton!

At about 07:30 the customs and immigration area opened. I stood in line to get the exit stamp on my passport. Other residents and visitors must then pay GD2,500 (US$12.26) as an exit tax. As a diplomat on official business, I did not have to pay the fee.

After stamping my passport, I went to an area behind customs and immigration where the x-ray machine and the metal detector are. I did not have to put my bag through the x-ray machine. Additionally, I was ushered around the metal detector. I can only assume all of that happened because of my diplomatic passport. The other side of the machines opened up into an air-conditioned waiting area.

In the waiting area, there were about 20 people. At 08:00, about eight of those people boarded a plane for Letham, Guyana. From the windows, I could see the lone runway numbered as 7/25. The wind was out of the northeast. I saw a Canadian King Air taxi onto the runway. That plane taxied to the end of the runway, turned around, and took off using runway 7, into the wind. As a former pilot, I know that is how it is supposed to work. Much to my surprise, the Letham plane taxied to the runway and took off on 25, downwind! I guess it is OK if the aircraft made it safely!

My plane boarded at 08:25 for an 08:30 departure. The seating on the small Cessna Caravan was two seats for the pilot and co-pilot (although we did not have a co-pilot), three single seats on one side and four bench seats across the small aisle that was for two people each. At the very rear of the airplane was one seat by itself. I was the first on the plane, so I took that single seat. It had more legroom than I have ever seen on a plane before. There was plenty of room on the floor beside my seat for my bag.

Kind of tight quarters in the airplane.

 

As it turned out, there were 11 people on the 12 seat airplane. Once everyone was seated, the pilot turned around and had the following words for us:

“This plane is headed to Paramaribo, Suriname.”

“Our flight time is one hour, 20 minutes.”

“Does everyone have their seat belts on?”

“Are there any questions?”

It was not exactly a United Airlines type briefing.

With no questions forthcoming, he turned to his left and closed his door. As soon as the door closed, he started the engine, and we began to taxi. It was precisely 08:30. We took off using runway 7, thankfully!

Shortly after we were airborne, the plane turned toward the southeast. That had us paralleling the Guyana coast. We gradually climbed above the scattered clouds. If I had to guess I would say we leveled off at about 10,000 feet. Overall the flight was incredibly smooth.

The home of the president of Guyana can be seen in the center of the photo on the beach.
Various neighborhoods and the Atlantic Ocean.
The Mahaica River emptying into the Atlantic Ocean.
Looking out of the rear windows of the airplane.

At about 09:05, we crossed into Suriname airspace. I found it interesting to watch the color variations in the Atlantic along both coasts. It ranged from a chocolaty brown to a blue-green in the far distance. The very muddy water along this part of South America is due to the silt carried by the Amazon River and the many other rivers that drain the rain forests.

The Saramacca and Coppename Rivers meet at the Atlantic Ocean.
A coastal marsh at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean.
A partial view of the Suriname coast.
Some very odd-looking canals.
Flying over the jungle canopy.

At about 09:50 (10:50 Suriname time) we landed. In addition to being first on the plane, I was also first off of the flight. That meant I was the first through customs and immigration. From there, I walked out into the general terminal area, where the management officer from the embassy met me.

Passing a cemetery on the final approach to Zorg and Hoop International Airport in Paramaribo, Suriname.
Preparing a plane for its next flight.
Helicopter lessons…

After stopping by his home for a little while, he and his wife took me to lunch. We went to an Indonesian restaurant, Sarinah, located at Verl. Gemenelandsweg 187. It is the very first time I have ever had Indonesian food. The atmosphere was very visually stimulating, including two fish ponds. The restaurant is open-air; however, a roof does cover the space.

We ordered three different entrees and shared them family style. One was deep-fried tofu with shredded chicken and rice squares. The second entree was fried but not battered jumbo shrimp. Lastly, we had a spicy (not too hot) chicken dish that served in a dark broth. Also in the soup were slivers of pickles, tomatoes, and other assorted vegetables served with steamed rice. It was all delicious. My first try at Indonesian food was a huge success!

The management officer pronounced the name of the town as something like Pamarbo. That is different than the Spanish pronunciation which audibles each vowel, and one ends up with Paramaribo. Regardless, he says the locals say Pamarbo.

Later that night, after dinner, I went to my hotel room. From the fifth floor, I looked out the window down to the parking lot. I could see hundreds of insects swarming around the parking lot lights. Periodically I would also see several bats fly through the “all-night buffet.”

The view from the Marriott Courtyard.

Bats dining near a light in the parking lot.
Some examples of the Suriname currency.

 

For dinner, I had stayed at the hotel. I had a fillet Mignon, garlic mashed potatoes, and vegetables. It was fantastic. I think it was the best meal I have had since I left the U.S. Before the meal I was served some whole-grain bread with herb butter. That was also wonderful even though I was one of only two people in the restaurant.

My usual breakfast at the hotel was a starter plate of pineapple cubes and grapefruit wedges with black coffee. Then I would get a made-to-order omelet with cheese, ham, and mushrooms. To accompany the eggs, I had a couple of strips of bacon and some spiced potatoes. Always amazing!

The Suriname River.
The river-facing facade of the Marriott Courtyard.

After breakfast I had a taxi take me to the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral. I arrived at about 08:30 to find it closed. A security guard informed me it would open at 11:00.

Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral undergoing renovations.
Detail of the main entrance to the cathedral.
One needs to watch for falling items!
The National Folk Music School is across the street from the cathedral.
Some traffic in front of the cathedral.
A before and after example of some of the buildings in Paramaribo.

From the cathedral, I strolled to the Presidential Palace. It is undergoing a complete restoration. The coat of arms above the main entrance was very ornate.

The Presidential Palace undergoing renovations.
Detail of the crest on the Presidential Palace.

I walked across to the flag square. It is an area in a park that had nearly 30 flags from around the world. I do not know why they used those particular flags.

The United States flag at Flag Square.
There are numerous flags at Flag Square.
Some art at the Parliament Building.

After a little more walking, I found myself in the area of Fort Zeelandia, also the location of the “I Love Suriname” sculpture. Not far away was a sculpture of a toucan bird in front of the Nola Hatterman Art Academy. The art academy was very near the old fort. The fort had been established in 1667, right on the Suriname River. I was not able to go in because it was closed for a local holiday.

The I Love Suriname sign.
Sculpture in front of the Nola Hatterman Art Academy.
The Nola Hatterman Art Academy.
A postal box at Fort Zeelandia.
Detail of the post box.
A statue and canon at Fort Zeelandia.

Leaving the fort area, I walked along the river for a couple of hundred meters toward old town Paramaribo. This area is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, known as the Historic Inner City of Paramaribo. Dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, the UNESCO site notes that Paramaribo’s “original and highly characteristic street plan of the historic center remains intact. Its buildings illustrate the gradual fusion of Dutch architectural influence with traditional local techniques and materials.”

The sign as one approaches the UNESCO World Heritage Site that is old town Paramaribo.
Flowering hedge.
The Presidential Palace is just across from Flag Square.

As I continued along, I ultimately found myself at the entrance to Palmetuin (the Palmtree Garden). The Palmetuin has hundreds of enormous palm trees throughout the garden. It was a beautiful setting. Several people were preparing for a festival celebrating Maroon Day. The booths set up when I arrived were selling food and drinks. I thought for sure there would be some artists or craftspeople there, but I did not see one. I did discover later that there were in fact crafts at the festival; however, by that time, I was back at my hotel, out of the rain. Now that I know what happens, maybe I can do a better job of catching the action next year.

One of the entries to Palmentuin Gardens.
A canal in the Palmetuin Garden.
The Orange Blues Bar is just across from the park.
An adventure rentals business.

Maroon Day celebrates the signing of the first treaty between the Dutch colonists and the Maroon peoples on October 10, 1760. The Maroons were made up of six nations of peoples indigenous to Suriname.

After sitting on a bench for a while and watching the people, I began my trek back to the cathedral. When I arrived, it was still not open. Shortly a man did come and open the doors and windows of the cathedral. I walked in and found myself in awe. According to the Suriname people, this is the largest wooden structure in the Caribbean, maybe even the tallest wooden structure in all of South America. I think the people of Guyana would take exception to these statements. I have heard similar descriptions of St. George’s Cathedral in Georgetown. I have not yet been to that cathedral so I cannot offer my own opinion.

There has been a cathedral (or church) at this site since 1824. The cathedral in its current form has been around since 1883. A full restoration of the interior of the cathedral was recently completed.

The twin towers at the front of the cathedral are about 40 meters tall. I am not yet sure how that compares to the one in Georgetown. One thing I am sure of is the color. The cathedral in Georgetown is white, very common in the Caribbean. The cathedral in Paramaribo is a yellowish color, really quite appealing.

Above the central aisle from the entrance to the altar were eight large chandeliers. Along the sides were another 20 smaller chandeliers. Those were all hanging from the cedar wood which is everywhere inside the cathedral. The unfinished cedar wood planks and the nail stains make for some interesting and eye-pleasing designs. Each of the planks has its unique color, obtained over the last 225 or so years of naturally curing in place.

The interior of the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral.

Another view of the cathedral.
The very large crucifix in the cathedral.

There was a multitude of hand-carved designs throughout the cathedral, mostly at the top of columns and along the many arches. Each was very intricate and beautiful.

The stations of the cross are also wooden, and also hand-painted. The three-dimensional quality and the color bring on an almost life-like appearance to the story.

Station I of the Stations of the Cross.
Station II of the Stations of the Cross.
Station III of the Stations of the Cross.
Station IV of the Stations of the Cross.
Station V of the Stations of the Cross.
Station VI of the Stations of the Cross.
Station VII of the Stations of the Cross.
Station VIII of the Stations of the Cross.
Station IX of the Stations of the Cross.
Station X of the Stations of the Cross.
Station XI of the Stations of the Cross.
Station XII of the Stations of the Cross.
Station XIII of the Stations of the Cross.
Station XIV of the Stations of the Cross.
Detail of a part of the ceiling at the cathedral.

Just as impressive and colorful is the large crucifix hanging above the altar. I estimate it is about 10 feet by 15 feet in size. It dominates the open air space above the altar. It is suspended from the ceiling by large cables.

Looking up to the crucifix.

There were just a few items in the cathedral that were not wood; one was a marble Pieta, and the other was a mosaic depicting the Madonna and Child. While these were very beautiful in their own right, they were almost out of place.

Madonna and Child artwork.
The Pieta as viewed by an angel.

 

After walking through the cathedral, I sat in the back pew for a long time just soaking in all of the sights. That also gave me time to sketch the hand-carved design that was at the top of each column.

We saw a lot of churches and cathedrals while we lived in Europe, but this cathedral is by far one of the most amazing I have ever seen.

While I was sitting at the rear of the cathedral, it began to rain. It was one of those Caribbean drenchers. It was raining so hard that I could feel the spray carried in on the breeze from the main door at the rear of the cathedral.

After sitting there for some time, I asked the man that had opened if he would be so kind as to call a taxi for me. He did so. I arrived back at the hotel in time to take a nap.

The side of the worship area.
View toward the rear of the cathedral.
The door to one of the bell towers of the cathedral.

My final day in Paramaribo was a little hectic. At about 13:30, while I was at the embassy, I received an e-mail from Georgetown. It was somewhat cryptic to someone that did not know the back-story (like me), saying something to the effect that if employees felt uncomfortable staying at the embassy (in Georgetown), they could be released by their supervisor to go home. I read that and was both concerned and confused. I responded with an e-mail trying to determine what was going on. The response I received was that there was concern over riots that were sparked by the police shooting a young man. The next thing I knew, I was being asked to get the next flight out of Paramaribo.

By the time I got confirmation that I had a ticket on the 16:00 flight from Paramaribo it was already 14:40. The ambassador’s driver took me back to my hotel. I had not yet packed. I planned to pack that night for my scheduled Saturday morning departure. I quickly threw my things in my bag and dashed down to the lobby to check out. That whole process took much longer than I could have imagined. Part of the reason for that was because the hotel wanted to give me a partial refund of US$88 because of my early check-out.

Finally, at about 15:10, the driver and I departed the hotel for the Zorg and Hoop International Airport. Traffic was against us. Since it was Friday, the government offices closed at 15:00. That meant we were fighting all of that traffic trying to get out of downtown.

We arrived at the airport at about 15:35. The lady we spoke to said that they had closed the flight at 15:30. Even though a seat was available and the departure was not until 16:00, she said she was unable to check me in for the flight. The next best thing was to book me on a 07:30 flight the next day. I asked her to go ahead and do that. She did so and then asked me for US$151 to buy the ticket. I suggested she could use the funding from the ticket for the Friday flight. She said that I forfeited the ticket because I missed the flight. So, I asked if she would take a credit card. She could not. I ended up giving her the US$88 refund I had received and another SRD210 to buy my ticket for Saturday.

When that transaction was complete, the driver took me back to the Marriott. I checked in again for one night. I ended up exactly one floor above where I had been earlier, 614 versus 514.

At 06:00 the next day, the driver took me back to the airport. I made it on the flight and back to Georgetown with zero problems.