Tag: Landscape

In The Shadow of Ruapehu

In The Shadow of Ruapehu

Chateau Tongariro, Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand – March 28, 2018

What is it that makes a trip by train such a romantic venture? Maybe it is that it harkens back to days long gone. Perhaps it the ability to see the sights at essentially eye-level, not from 35,000 feet. Maybe it is simply the name of the train, The Northern Explorer. Whatever it is, we were both looking forward to our trip to the Chateau Tongariro.
Absolutely ready for the train trip!

It was a drizzly, and sometimes rainy, morning.  As soon as the taxi dropped us off at Platform 9, we got into the queue to check-in for the journey.  The woman at the ticket counter gave us our tickets; Carriage D, seats 12A and 12B.  We tagged our bags to our final destination, National Park, and delivered them to the baggage carriage.

Our seats faced two others with a table in between. Luckily our seats looked to the front of the train. It was the same configuration we had when we traveled on the Tranzalpine from Greymouth to Christchurch in February 2016. The seats are excellent except for the fact that it is impossible to stretch one’s legs if another passenger is sitting across.

I have always been fascinated with locomotives.  The 7000-series model that was preparing to pull our train is one of the largest of the KiwiRail fleet.  While it is impressive, it is nowhere near as aerodynamic as the locomotives used in Spain to pull the bullet trains.  Regardless, I knew it would do just fine for our journey.

Readying for the trip.
A 7000-series locomotive to pull our cars to National Park.

When I originally purchased the tickets for our trip, I also bought two breakfast wraps and two long-black coffees. Talking with the woman in the dining carriage, I discovered she would be able to serve as soon as the train departed. Since that was just a few minutes away, I decided to stand and wait.

While I was waiting, I noticed several KiwiRail workers outside the train pushing empty shopping carts.  They bring carts full of food and beverages from the storage area to the train to stock the dining carriage.  When I walk to work from the train station, I had often seen the workers coming from a small warehouse in the train station building along Featherston Street.  I had always thought they were stocking the restaurant in the train station building.  That morning, I discovered the true nature of their business.

Just as she had promised, the attendant provided the wraps as the train departed, 07:55.  The coffees were not quite ready.  She said she would bring them to our seats.

I went back to our seats. Leslie and I both tucked into a delicious breakfast wrap of scrambled eggs and ham. While it may not have been haute cuisine, it was delicious. When the coffee arrived, the circle of our happiness was complete!

Above the aisle in the carriage were several video screens. The screens displayed a view of the North Island. The route of the train was visible, stretching from Wellington to Auckland. Our stop, National Park, was roughly halfway. We were to reach our destination in just over five hours. Quite frankly, I was delighted we were not going to Auckland. I am not sure I could have lasted an additional five hours.

The Northern Explorer travels from Wellington to Auckland and back again.

Periodically, the video emitted a bell tone. That indicated an audio commentary was available. Each seat had a pair of headphones. One could plug in and listen to the explanation in a variety of languages. I listened a couple of times. While it was interesting, I spent most of the time talking with Leslie and watching New Zealand pass by the train.

By the time we reached the Tasman Sea coast, the rain had stopped. It was still cloudy, but not raining. I walked to the rear of the train to take photos. The last carriage is for observation. That carriage has no windows. That translates to photographs with no reflection from the glass. That said, it was very challenging to take photos while the train rumbled and bounced along at about 60 mph.

Kapiti Island under the clouds.

The good news is the observation carriage was nice and cool.  The passenger carriages were intolerably hot.  The internal temperature only got worse once the cloud cover cleared.

Even though the clouds were still quite low, Kapiti Island was easily visible. The dark, dreary photo I made sets the tone for what the weather we experienced. That lasted until we passed the Otaki stop. From then on, we had beautiful blue skies with a few clouds.

The Northern Explorer made two stops before our stop; Palmerston North and Ohakune. Other than that, awe-inspiring expansive sheep stations (ranches) and magnificent river gorges provided a visual treat. I am still amazed at how much of New Zealand is such a beautiful green.

The river gorge that was my favorite had to be Rangitikei. The white cliffs against the azure-green water were beautiful. The fact that the train crosses the canyon on a high viaduct adds to the stunning perspective.

Another view of the Rangitikei gorge.
Crossing the very deep Rangitikei gorge.
On the outskirts of Otiku is The Wool Company. The only reason I noticed it is because two people were standing in front, waving at the passing train.
The Wool Company headquarters.

As we rattled through Taihape, I caught a glimpse of the large gumboot sculpture.  Taihape is the home to the annual North Island championship gumboot throwing.  The competitors throw rubber boots as far as they can.  The best throw I could find for women was Kristen Churchward’s 34.35 meters (113 feet) in 2016.  The best throw I could find for men was Brent Newdick’s 48.5 meters (159 feet) in 2015. That is quite a distance for a rubber boot to travel!

Nearing Waiouru, we got our first glimpse of Mount Ruapehu, one of New Zealand’s active volcanos. On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most active; Ruapehu rates a 1. That is the same level we encountered with White Island when we were at Ohope Beach. New Zealand lists twelve volcanos; Ruapehu and White Island are the only two considered currently active.

First view of Mount Ruapehu.

In addition to being an active volcano, Mount Ruapehu is the highest point on the North Island at 2,797 meters (9,177 feet).  In Maori, Ruapehu means “pit of noise” or “exploding pit.”  It last erupted on September 25, 2007.  Our destination, the Chateau Tongariro, lays at the base of Ruapehu.

After our stop at Ohakune, we crossed two spectacular viaducts; Hapuawhenua and Makatote.  Hapuawhenua dates from about 1907.  At its highest point, the 284-meter (932 feet) viaduct is 45 meters (148 feet) above the bottom of the gorge.  The Makatote is not quite as long, 262 meters (860 feet), but it is taller at 79 meters (259 feet).  They both demonstrate just how rugged the terrain can be in New Zealand.

It was about 13:15 when we arrived at National Park. I did not realize it until I wrote this blog, but National Park is the highest urban township in New Zealand (825 meters or 2,707 feet). Waimarino was the original name for National Park. In Maori, it translates to “calm waters.” In 1926, the railway changed the name to National Park.

A driver from ROAM (Rivers, Oceans, and Mountains) met a young woman at the train-side and us. It took about 20 minutes to get to the Chateau Tongariro. During the drive, we could see the clouds were gathering. What little bit of blue sky we had upon arrival was the last blue sky we saw until our return train trip.
Leslie at the Chateau.
I was there too!

Workers laid the foundation stone for the Chateau on February 16, 1929. As part of a government subsidy, the Chateau could not cost less than £40,000 nor more than £60,000. The other stipulation was that the project must be completed by March 31, 1930. The final cost was £88,000. It was a spectacular facility and setting for the time. To put those numbers into perspective today, it would be a range of £2,363,600 (US$3,312,569) to £3,545,400 (US$4,968,877). The final price equates to £5,199,920 (US$7,287,652).

Our room was nice.  It was spacious, but most importantly, it had a gas fireplace.  We placed our luggage in the room and went outside to explore.  We ended up at Tussock, a restaurant about 100 meters north of the Chateau.  We had a glass of wine on the front terrace, overlooking Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe.  They were beginning to be obscured by clouds.

The other side of our room at the Chateau Tongariro.
Our room at the Chateau Tongariro.
Our views during the stay got worse and worse. The center mountain with its top in the clouds is Mount Ngauruhoe. Just to the left is Mount Tongariro.

Mount Ngauruhoe is the taller of the two at 2,291 meters (7,516 feet). Ngauruhoe translates as “the peak of Uruhoe.” Mount Tongariro is a mere 1,978 meters (6,489 feet). Tongariro translates as “south wind borne away.” They are both volcanos. Ngauruhoe last erupted on February 19, 1975. On the other hand, Tongariro’s last eruption was much more recent, November 21, 2012.

All three mountains; Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro, played parts in The Lord of the Rings trilogy. They and the surrounding area were the shooting location for parts of the movie depicting Modor’s Gorgoroth region. Ngauruhoe, although digitally altered, played the role of Mount Doom. It seems that nearly anyplace one goes throughout New Zealand; parts of the films were made there.

The real draw to the area is the world-famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It is a one-way hike of about 19 kilometers (12 miles). Since parking at the trailhead is limited, shuttles take hikers to the start and then meet them on the other side. The trail begins at about 1,100 meters (3,609 feet), climbs to a high point of 1,900 meters (6,234 feet), and finally descends to the finish at a little more than 700 meters (2,297 feet). According to a brochure at the Chateau, the crossing takes six to eight hours. If Leslie and I had tried it, I am confident it would have been more like six to eight days, not counting the helicopter rescue!

After speaking with staff in the iSite, instead of the “long” walk, we opted for a couple of shorter walks; the ridge walk and the Whakapapa nature walk. It was a little drizzly while we walked, but it was not uncomfortable.

Just outside the iSite was a commemorative stone.  That is when I realized the Tongariro National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  I can see why.  The park is beautiful, gifted to the people of New Zealand by a Maori chief in 1887.  Visiting the park makes the 20th World Heritage Site Leslie and I have been fortunate enough to visit.  Regardless, that is not much of a dent in the over 1,000 sites worldwide.

The Tongariro National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The ridge walk begins just beyond the iSite. The sign indicated it was a 1.2-kilometer return (roundtrip) walk, taking about 30 to 40 minutes. Nearly half of the trail goes through a forest. The remainder winds through alpine shrubland. On the way up, it is definitely up. We frequently stopped to gain our breath. Just after we began, a young man passed us, going up the trail. We were about one-third of the way up when he passed us again, going down the path. I assured him we would make the summit in time for dinner. The end of the trail offered a commanding view of the Chateau and the land around. The low cloud cover limited our sight.

The Chateau as seen from the overview.

Whakapapa nature walk was much, much more manageable. It is a sealed trail that winds through some of the beech forests. There were plaques near plants identifying many of the species and describing the plant. However, my favorite part was the two detour trails I took. Both led me down to the Whakapapanui Stream. I thought it provided some excellent photographic opportunities.

Many walks are available throughout the park.
Whakapapanui Stream

That evening we splurged, opting for dinner in the Ruapehu Room. We selected the Chateau Briand for two. I do not think I had ever had that before. I would definitely have it again. It was delicious.

The next morning, Leslie was not feeling well. I walked up the road to a small store to see if I could find something like Pepto-Bismol. They had nothing of the sort. On my way to the store, I saw the old building across from the Chateau was open. I had not previously seen it open. The sign out front touted “authentic Maori art.” I went inside. I immediately saw two massive logs lying on the floor. They were being carved for a display in the area. The wood had a diameter of nearly three feet, and each was about 12-feet long. The carving was very intricate, with numerous Maori themes. The man I talked with about the project said it takes them about four months to complete the two sculptures. There were some art objects for sale, but nothing interested me.

At about 12:15, a woman from ROAM picked us up at the chateau for our short ride to National Park to catch our train. When we arrived at the station, she explained that the station has absolutely nothing to do with the train. Instead, it is a restaurant. Our ticketing and baggage would be handled right at train-side.

The train was a few minutes late, but soon we were on our way south. At the start of this blog, I waxed poetically about the romance of riding the rails. Quite frankly, that had worn off for both of us. After all, with a plane ride of a similar duration, we could be in Tahiti. We were tired and ready to be home.

The train platform at National Park, New Zealand.

Our seats on the return journey were in Carriage D, 7C and 7D. These were much more comfortable than on our initial trip. These seats were akin to airline seats in that they all faced forward and they all had trays stored in the seatbacks. We were able to stretch our legs out with no problem.

The only problem we had to endure again was the heat in the carriage.  We were both amazed at the number of passengers wearing heavy jackets.  Regardless, the time seemed to pass quickly.  We were back in Wellington by 18:30.

KiwiRail, the national rail system of New Zealand.
Exterior view of our car for the next five-plus hours.
Did I mention she is absolutely ready for the train trip?!
A station outbuilding. The sign boasts “Backing Black Caps”, the New Zealand national cricket team.
One of the many ramparts along the way.
A very nice looking station house.
Crossing over the Rangitikei River.
A colorful paddock.
The Rangitikei River alongside the tracks.
Yet another view of the Rangitikei gorge.
A bend in the Rangitikei River.
A green paddock stretching to the far hills.
Sheep in the paddock.
The locomotive, the baggage carriage, and our passenger carriage.
Green hillside in sheep country.
A lonely stretch of road.
Rugged green hillside.
A station home.
On the edge of a town.
It appears the sheep shall never want for a paddock in which to graze!
Sheep dining near two Cabbage (ti kouka) trees.
Sheep seem to go anywhere in the paddocks.
The cornerstone of the Chateau.
Two of the older visitors.
A 1931 Rover.
Our views on during the stay got worse and worse. The center mountain with its top in the clouds is Mount Ngauruhoe. Just to the left is Mount Tongariro.
The Chateau.
Tiki carving detail outside of the iSite.
The path leading to the ridge overview.
Ferns on the floor of the forest.
The Chateau and points north.
Some of the moss-type plants in the area.
Whakapapanui Stream as seen from a pedestrian bridge near Whakapapa Holiday Park.
Whakapapanui Stream
Whakapapanui Stream
Moss growing on the trees.
A plant with small yellow leaves.
Moss on the trees near the stream.
Whakapapanui Stream
Whakapapanui Stream
Whakapapanui Stream
Small ferns growing on the trees.
Plants and moss near Whakapapanui Stream.
A typical directional sign.
Various foliage on the forest floor.
Some delicate purple flowers.
One, small, lone red berry (hint – near the center).
Small ferns on a tree.
The ferns extended all the way to the canopy.
Ferns on the forest floor.
Old building across from the Chateau.  This is where the Maori carvings were stored.
Get to the Point

Get to the Point

Castlepoint, New Zealand – September 2, 2017

We decided to take a long weekend at Castlepoint, New Zealand. We wanted to stay in a bach since we knew many of those would be right on the beach. A bach (pronounced “batch” without the “t”) is like a cabin or summer home. We had heard of them, but we had never stayed in one. I visited the website Bookabach to find our accommodation. We decided on a two-bedroom bach, on the beach, with stunning views of the Castlepoint Lighthouse. The only things we had to bring were our linens and groceries. Other than that, everything is provided by the bach owner.
Taken just outside the bach.  It was chilly.  I had on a fleece jacket and two shirts.  It was spitting rain during this photoshoot.

The small town of Castlepoint is a little more than a two-hour drive from Lower Hutt. The journey is not bad; although, Leslie would disagree because of Rimutaka Pass. She really dislikes that pass.

Castlepoint lies along the east coast of the north island.  If one is looking for wild nightlife, this is probably not the place to visit.  There is one coffee house/grocery, the Castlepoint Store (they are called dairies here) and one hotel/restaurant, the Castlepoint Hotel and Guesthouse.  It is also known as the Whakataki Hotel.  On our way into town, we stopped at the hotel for a coffee.

September is the beginning of spring in New Zealand, so the weather can be dicey. We indeed found that to be true. It was cold and rainy for much of our visit. Regardless, we had a fun, relaxing weekend. It seemed more like a fall afternoon than a spring day.

We whiled away some of our time by quietly sitting in the bach, reading, or doing art projects. When we looked up, we were looking out of a large picture window, right at the lighthouse.

The Castlepoint Lighthouse as seen from our bach.

Except for some raindrops periodically hitting the bach, it was tranquil. It was also rather chilly inside. There were some space heaters available, but we did not turn them on too high. We would rather be comfortably cold than excruciatingly hot.

Part of what made the environment so relaxing was the water. I mean both the ocean and the rain. I have never been able to put my finger on the reason why, but something is soothing about the sound of water to the human spirit. It seems to “soothe the savage beast.” I could sit, watch, and listen to the ocean and the rain for hours. The smell of the sea and the rain added to the experience and the overall relaxation. I love Colorado, but I have come to love the islands of New Zealand too.

On our first afternoon, we walked along the beach in front of our bach.  There was a lot of activity because there was a fishing tournament in full swing.  We watched one man for a while as he set his bait, cast, and then reeled the line back to shore.  He said he had caught a couple, but he did not think they were anything to write home about.

Reelin’ one in.

The fisherman told us the tournament was drawing to a close.  He said there would be a large gathering at the Wairarapa Sports Fishing Club to celebrate the winners and have a fish-fry.  He suggested we stop by and partake.  We opted not to since we did not feel comfortable.  Besides, we had our heart set on dinner at the hotel.

The ocean swells were reasonably strong. At times, the fishing boats out disappeared from view as they bobbed up and down. Leslie and I were both glad we were on terra firma.

Since the fishing tournament was ending, people were beginning to bring their boats to shore.  It is always fun to watch people launch and recover boats.  They drive out onto the beach with a tractor, point the trailer into the surf, and either launch or recover.  I assume the small bay is too unprotected to have an actual marina.  Also, once a marina is in place, then it requires time and energy to operate and maintain.  So, I am sure the locals think the tractor and trailer method is much preferred.

A green tractor retrieving a boat.

Because of the weather, we opted to not climb to the lighthouse that first afternoon. For dinner that evening, we went back to the Castlepoint Hotel. The dining area was a combination of a bar, diner, and pool hall. There was a more formal dining room to the left as one entered, but everyone seemed to opt for the other. I am sure a big reason why was the roaring fire in the woodstove. We had a glass of wine and a good ol’ stick-to-your-ribs dinner.

A roaring fire in the hotel.

Back at the bach, I sat up my tripod to try to get some photos of the lighthouse in action.  It was a cloudy, misty, and cold evening.  I think that made for a good picture.

The next morning, we drove a little farther north along the coast. In about 15-minutes we came to the Mataikona Rocks. One of the Kiwis in the hotel the night before had recommended we visit. They were an unusual formation. We arrived as the tide was coming in. That limited how much of the structure we could see.  The compositions are layers of sandstone that have been upthrust when tectonic plates collided.

Mataikona Rocks at the beach.

It was still a mostly cloudy day. However, now and then, the sun would poke through. That made for some excellent photographs.

On the way to the Mataikona Rocks, we drove past a beautifully green paddock. It was part of a sheep ranch. One could see dozens of sheep and lambs. The shades of green in this country are hard to explain adequately. They are just so brilliant.

Near the Mataikona Rocks was a little-used trail along the beach. Along the path was a sign regarding Paua taking and the relevant regulations. I found that very interesting.

After some additional exploring and beach-combing, we drove back to the bach. Before departing Lower Hutt, we packed some groceries…and wine. That evening we ended up barbequing some beautiful steaks. I am sure part of the reason they tasted so good was the picturesque beauty all around us. The patio of the bach had a small overhang. I moved the barbeque under that for protection from the weather.

The following morning, our last day there, I woke up early. I checked outside and saw that the sky was relatively clear. I had never taken photographs of the stars. I decided to try it. I can tell I will need a lot more practice to get a perfect shot. That said, I did end up with one shot that I liked. Without very much light pollution at Castlepoint, it is incredible all of the stars one can see.

Starry starry night…My first try at star photography. It was actually a very early morning shot. The eastern horizon was just beginning to light up.  That is the lighthouse in the lower right.

Many of our friends from work have been to Castlepoint. For those that have not been there, I highly recommend the trip. It was so lovely to relax and not be running from one tourist site to the next. We felt very relaxed when we returned home.

Early evening at a stormy Castlepoint.
Launching in Deliverance Cove.
The fishing boat shuffle.
Reelin’ on in…again.
A boat launcher/retriever.
The lighthouse.
A couple of seals on the rocks.
Castlepoint lighthouse.
Green and rolling paddock.
More sheep and lambs.
The bay at Castlepoint.
The Mataikona Rocks looking toward the north.
I could not determine why the poles were in the surf.
Panorama of homes along Mataikona Road.
Gathering clouds above the Mataikona Rocks.
Paua fishing sign.
Bay alongside Mataikona Road.
Koru.
Rolling hills near Castlepoint.
Castlepoint bay.
View from Mataikona Road looking toward Castlepoint.
Sheep and lambs.
Rock formation along Mataikona Road.
Castle Rock looming over Deliverance Cove.
Deliverance Cove and Castle Rock.
Castlepoint lighthouse with Deliverance Cove and Castle Rock in the distance.
Castlepoint lighthouse.
Castle Rock at Deliverance Cove as seen from the lighthouse vantage point.
Our little slice of heaven. The bach we stayed at is in the center foreground with the green roof.
View of the Castlepoint bay from the lighthouse vantage point.
Southern North

Southern North

Cape Palliser, New Zealand – January 29, 2018

Cape Palliser is another of our favorite spots in New Zealand. Located on the southernmost point of the North Island, it has a rugged beauty. Add to that beauty a spectacular red and white lighthouse and herds of seals and one has the recipe for a beautiful outdoor experience. There are very few trees at this location. That adds to the stark look.

Nearing the small village of Pirinoa, one passes the little Burnside Presbyterian Church. It was a beautiful day for photographs. The church dates from 1875 and has a small cemetery off to one side. Other than flowers and trees, there is nothing else around.

The Burnside Presbyterian Church. A sign out front noted the church dates from 1875.

The Cape Palliser Lighthouse is literally at the end of the road. For much of its length, the way hugs the beach, which allows storms can wreak havoc on the road. In places, only one vehicle may pass at a time. Not long after leaving the small fishing village of Ngawi, the sealed road ends. The remainder of the way is simply a dirt road.

At the end of the road is a parking lot and, thankfully, a toilet. Towering above the parking lot is a large, rugged hillside, at the top of which is the lighthouse. I wanted a photograph of the lighthouse with the ocean in the background. I was not able to get a decent picture in the past because of the lens I had. The issue is that one can only stand so far back from the lighthouse without risking a fall down the hillside.

Just like the first time Leslie and I visited, 261 stairs were separating the lighthouse from the parking lot. None of my traveling companions were interested in taking on that many stairs. Being not quite as bright as the others, I decided I must go up. The reward for my ascent was a spectacular view of the lighthouse and the ocean. As a bonus, I was there all by myself.

The Cape Palliser Lighthouse.

As I was ready to descend, I saw three people who had just begun their ascent. The stairs are very narrow and very steep. I decided to wait until they made it up to the lighthouse before I started down. It is hard to say which is more taxing; the journey up or the walk down. Regardless, I shan’t have to worry about ever making the trip again…been there, done that.

Also, it is 261 down!

While I had been on my little adventure, my traveling companions explored the beach near the parking lot. At that point, the beach is challenging to travel across. That is due to the fist-sized stones covering the beach. It is hard to get stable, proper footing. Regardless, they did locate a lone bull seal napping on rocks at the water’s edge.

A yawning bull seal.

We got back in the car and began the return trip, stopping to look at various seal herds along the way. Just before the tiny village of Mangatoetoe, there is a small piece of land that juts out into the sea. The little peninsula forms a small, protected bay and some tidepools. Every time we have visited, we have always seen seals there. This day was no different.

By far, my favorite seal of the day was “Cruiser.” I am not sure if the youngster was a male or female, but it was undoubtedly mobile. That seal cruised all over the area. It seemed not a centimeter of the area was left unexplored. Something is mesmerizing about watching seals in their natural habitat. I know that is one of the things about New Zealand that I shall miss when we depart.

“Cruiser,” the very energetic seal pup. He or she cruised all over the rocks.

On our way to the lighthouse, as we drove through Ngawi, I noticed the Captain’s Table food trailer was not open. That meant if we wanted lunch, we would need to drive to Lake Ferry. As we entered Ngawi on our return, it was open for business. That was great news!

Adjacent to the Captain’s Table is a small camping area.  We ordered our lunches and then waited at a picnic table.  That did not last long.  The sun was very intense, so we gathered our food and sat in the air-conditioned comfort of the car to eat.

The food trailer. This is the only food commercially available in Ngawi. When it is open, it is a must stop!

After lunch, it was a leisurely drive back home.

The Burnside Presbyterian Church near Pirinoa.
261!!!
View from the Cape Palliser Lighthouse. This is part of the Matakitaki-a-kupe Reserve.
Truly in the rocks.
Just barely raising its head. Sorry to have disturbed you.
This must be how seals enjoy life.
Cruiser going up a “cliff.”
Ten seals.
One seal playing in the small inlet.
Life on the edge.
Two seals and a gull.
Cruiser and, maybe, mom.
That just cannot be comfortable…
Shortly after this shot, the seal had to abandon its post because of an incoming wave.
Cruiser checking out the photographer.
Another gull on the rocks. That sounds like a New Zealand cocktail…
“Cruiser,” the very energetic seal pup. He or she cruised all over the rocks.
Lounging seal. I guess the rock close to her head is a pillow??
A gull on the rocks.
Cape Palliser Lighthouse in the distance.
After a hard morning of swimming, this seal could not make it very far before a nap took over.
The nearby rocks must provide a sense of protection. Regardless, the flat rock seems much more comfortable than some of the other resting spots observed.
A female Paradise shelduck.
Gettin’ a little sun on the belly, ahhh!
Rocky beach near Mangatoetoe.
Awaiting lunch from the Captain’s Table food trailer in Ngawi.
In the backyard, waiting for the grill to heat up. This was after a hard day of seal watching.
Where the Hobbits Were

Where the Hobbits Were

Matamata, New Zealand – February 5, 2018

We departed from Ohope Beach at nearly 07:00.  Our destination was the iSite (tourist information) at Matamata to take the 10:00 tour of the Hobbiton movie set.  The weather forecast called for showers.  However; during our drive, it was clear.

The tourist information site at Matamata definitely has a Hobbit feel.

Arriving at the iSite shortly after 09:00, the sales associate asked if we wanted to join the 09:30 tour instead. I jumped at the chance, anxious to beat any impending rain. The iSite had more Hobbit souvenirs than one could imagine. Since there was a gift shop at the movie set, we opted not to buy anything.

We walked outside and boarded the bus. Our driver, Bea, told us we should expect about a 25-minute drive to the Hobbiton movie set. During the ride, she played several video snippets detailing what was at the movie set and the history behind the scenes.

Sir Peter Jackson’s (the film’s director) team found the Alexander family-run farm in 1998 while scouting for locations for the filming of The Lord of the Rings movies. It seemed the perfect site for The Shire, the home of the Hobbits of Middle-earth. It matched J.R.R. Tolkien’s description from the books almost to a tee.

Several Hobbit Holes on the hill. Bilbo Baggins’ Bag End home is below the large tree in the upper left corner.

The set covers some 12 acres and originally contained 39 Hobbit Holes. Filming began in December 1999. When filming finished, crews returned the land to its pre-filming condition, as happens with most movie sets. The crews dismantled or removed the Hobbit Holes used for the movie, with few exceptions. The few exceptions were enough to draw the films’ enthusiasts to the area to “tour” the set. Guided tours of the site commenced in 2002.

In 2009, Sir Peter Jackson and his team returned for additional filming. This time, they constructed the Hobbit Holes of actual wood, slate, bricks, and mortar. The re-done set claimed a total of 44 Hobbit Holes. That is what is seen today when one takes a tour of the movie set.

The bus stopped at The Shire’s Rest.  At that site, additional tourists boarded the bus.  Once full, approximately 41 tourists, the bus crossed Buckland Road and entered the Alexander family sheep farm.

Our tour guide, Charlotte, told us one could determine the occupation of each of the Hobbit Hole occupants by the clues left out front. That is how we deciphered the farmers, bakers, cheesemakers, etc. We had just begun our walking tour when Charlotte pointed out a small cut in the trail. That is where Bilbo Baggins, the main character in The Hobbit, ran; shouting, “I’m going on an adventure!” One of our fellow tourists recreated the scene while Charlotte filmed the “episode” on the tourist’s phone.

Bakers Hobbit Hole.

A walk of 1.17 kilometers (three-quarters of one mile) was ahead of us. We frequently stopped to listen to Charlotte’s stories and to take photographs. Like so many parts of New Zealand, the Hobbiton Movie Set was visually stunning. The colors were amazing, and the overall landscaping was perfect. Throughout the set, there are several active garden plots. After Leslie’s question, we discovered gardeners split the produce amongst the gardeners that work at the site. I am sure that is a nice extra benefit from their employment.

At the artist’s Hobbit Hole, Charlotte allowed each of us to enter while she made our photograph.  It was very kind of her to do that, especially for all 41 tourists.

To quote Bilbo Baggins, “We’re going on an adventure!” Taken as we departed the artist’s Hobbit Hole.

Charlotte shared that there was one tree on the property that was fake. She asked if we could spot the tree. One of the tourists piped up that it was the tree at the top of the hill. That was correct. The tree happened to be directly above Bilbo Baggins home, Bag End. Just before filming, when Sir Peter Jackson arrived on set, he said the leaves were not the correct color. That set a team into action, re-painting each leaf by hand. I do not know what it looked like initially, but it is very nice now.

Just after the artist’s Hobbit Hole, we came to an overlook. From there, we could see most of the set; all the way to the mill and the Green Dragon Inn. It was a beautiful view.

The view across the lake toward the Green Dragon Inn.

Next was the pinnacle of the tour; Bag End. It was surreal to stand in front of Bilbo’s “home.” The exterior featured in the films; however, the interior shots were made at Weta Studios in Miramar, Wellington, New Zealand. In front of the house is a bench on which Bilbo’s pipe is sitting. The sign on the gate to Bag End stated: “no admittance; except on party business.” The party in question, of course, was Bilbo’s 111th birthday party.

A panorama of Bag End. Note Bilbo’s pipe on the bench at the lower right.

We stopped to sit down on the party grounds.  There were a few benches under a shade cover.  We sat there while Charlotte talked about the party grounds, the party tree, and the overall celebration of Bilbo’s eleventy-first (Hobbit-speak) birthday party.

The party-tree behind our tour guide, Charlotte.

Leaving the comfort of the shade and bench behind, we walked to Samwise “Sam” Gangee’s Hobbit Hole. The flowers in front were beautiful. Sam is the close friend of Bilbo, joining him on his big adventure.

Sam’s Hobbit Hole.

From Sam’s Hobbit Hole, it was mostly downhill. We walked past a beer cart left alongside the road, just before the stone, two-arched bridge. The bridge crosses the lake near the mill. That made for some very scenic photo opportunities.

On the other side of the bridge is the Green Dragon Inn. Included in the tour is a cold drink in a ceramic mug. One can choose between three types of beer (unique brews, each with 1.0% alcohol), a non-alcoholic beer, tea, or coffee.

The green dragon…

We relaxed with our drinks for a while.  Then Charlotte gathered the group and moved us to the gift shop.  Other than our refrigerator magnets, we left empty-handed.

Back on the bus, I discovered the tours run daily, except for Christmas day, rain or shine (update – our trip ended up being entirely in the shine!). There are 70, yes, seventy; tours each day! That means around 1,000,000 visitors each year!

The bus dropped us off at the iSite in Matamata, and we walked across the street for lunch at the Dew Drop Inn. I had a Troll sandwich, essentially a ham and cheese panini. It tasted terrific, but what amazed me most was that the sandwich stayed very hot to the last bite.

From the restaurant, it was back to the car to head to our next stop.

I cannot recommend this tour highly enough. For those that are interested, one can plan a visit at Hobbiton Movie Set.

Hobbit hunter number one.
Hobbit hunters two and three.
The mill at the lake.
A portion of the Green Dragon Inn.
Looking across the lake to the set.
A view of the mill at the lake.
A display just outside the door to the store.
The Green Dragon Inn just to the left of the double-arched bridge by the mill.
Walking toward the Green Dragon Inn.
A direction sign. We departed Hobbiton, heading toward the Green Dragon Inn.
An ale wagon…my kind of transport!
Herb gardener’s Hobbit Hole.
Hobbit Holes overlooking the party grounds.
Farmer’s Hobbit Hole.
The home of Bilbo Baggins close friend, Samwise “Sam” Gamgee.
A weaver’s Hobbit Hole.
A Hobbit Hole.
Herb gardener’s Hobbit Hole.
Farmer’s Hobbit Hole
Cheese-maker’s Hobbit Hole.
Small Hobbit Hole.
Bilbo Baggins home is just below the large tree. FYI…this tree is the only fake tree on the entire set.
Bag End.
Gardener’s Hobbit Hole.
Hobbit Holes
Looking up the hill toward Bag End, Bilbo Baggins home.
A wider view of the florist Hobbit Hole.
A Hobbit Hole duplex??
This Hobbit is cooking fish for lunch just below the entry.
Florist’s Hobbit Hole
Several Hobbit Holes on the hill. Bilbo Baggins’ Bag End home is below the large tree in the upper left corner.
Gardener’s Hobbit Hole
Fisherman’s Hobbit Hole
Farmer’s Hobbit Hole
Farmer Hobbit Hole
Toy Maker Hobbit Hole