Tag: Train

In The Shadow of Ruapehu

Chateau Tongariro, Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand – March 28, 2018

What is it that makes a trip by train such a romantic venture? Maybe it is that it harkens back to days long gone. Perhaps it the ability to see the sights at essentially eye-level, not from 35,000 feet. Maybe it is simply the name of the train, The Northern Explorer. Whatever it is, we were both looking forward to our trip to the Chateau Tongariro.

It was a drizzly, and sometimes rainy, morning. As soon as the taxi dropped us off at Platform 9, we got into the queue to check-in for the journey. The woman at the ticket counter gave us our tickets; Carriage D, seats 12A and 12B. We tagged our bags to our final destination, National Park, and delivered them to the baggage carriage.

Our seats faced two others with a table in between. Luckily our seats looked to the front of the train. It was the same configuration we had when we traveled on the Tranzalpine from Greymouth to Christchurch in February 2016. The seats are excellent except for the fact that it is impossible to stretch one’s legs if another passenger is sitting across.

I have always been fascinated with locomotives. The 7000-series model that was preparing to pull our train is one of the largest of the KiwiRail fleet. While it is impressive, it is nowhere near as aerodynamic as the locomotives used in Spain to pull the bullet trains. Regardless, I knew it would do just fine for our journey.

A 7000-series locomotive to pull our cars to National Park.

When I originally purchased the tickets for our trip, I also bought two breakfast wraps and two long-black coffees. Talking with the woman in the dining carriage, I discovered she would be able to serve as soon as the train departed. Since that was just a few minutes away, I decided to stand and wait.

While I was waiting, I noticed several KiwiRail workers outside the train pushing empty shopping carts. They bring carts full of food and beverages from the storage area to the train to stock the dining carriage. When I walk to work from the train station, I had often seen the workers coming from a small warehouse in the train station building along Featherston Street. I had always thought they were stocking the restaurant in the train station building. That morning, I discovered the true nature of their business.

Just as she had promised, the attendant provided the wraps as the train departed, 07:55. The coffees were not quite ready. She said she would bring them to our seats.

I went back to our seats. Leslie and I both tucked into a delicious breakfast wrap of scrambled eggs and ham. While it may not have been haute cuisine, it was delicious. When the coffee arrived, the circle of our happiness was complete!

Above the aisle in the carriage were several video screens. The screens displayed a view of the North Island. The route of the train was visible, stretching from Wellington to Auckland. Our stop, National Park, was roughly halfway. We were to reach our destination in just over five hours. Quite frankly, I was delighted we were not going to Auckland. I am not sure I could have lasted an additional five hours.

The Northern Explorer travels from Wellington to Auckland and back again.

Periodically, the video emitted a bell tone. That indicated an audio commentary was available. Each seat had a pair of headphones. One could plug in and listen to the explanation in a variety of languages. I listened a couple of times. While it was interesting, I spent most of the time talking with Leslie and watching New Zealand pass by the train.

By the time we reached the Tasman Sea coast, the rain had stopped. It was still cloudy, but not raining. I walked to the rear of the train to take photos. The last carriage is for observation. That carriage has no windows. That translates to photographs with no reflection from the glass. That said, it was very challenging to take photos while the train rumbled and bounced along at about 60 mph.

The good news is the observation carriage was nice and cool. The passenger carriages were intolerably hot. The internal temperature only got worse once the cloud cover cleared.

Even though the clouds were still quite low, Kapiti Island was easily visible. The dark, dreary photo I made sets the tone for what the weather we experienced. That lasted until we passed the Otaki stop. From then on, we had beautiful blue skies with a few clouds.

The Northern Explorer made two stops before our stop; Palmerston North and Ohakune. Other than that, awe-inspiring expansive sheep stations (ranches) and magnificent river gorges provided a visual treat. I am still amazed at how much of New Zealand is such a beautiful green.

The river gorge that was my favorite had to be Rangitikei. The white cliffs against the azure-green water were beautiful. The fact that the train crosses the canyon on a high viaduct adds to the stunning perspective.

Crossing the very deep Rangitikei gorge.

On the outskirts of Otiku is The Wool Company. The only reason I noticed it is because two people were standing in front, waving at the passing train.

As we rattled through Taihape, I caught a glimpse of the large gumboot sculpture. Taihape is the home to the annual North Island championship gumboot throwing. The competitors throw rubber boots as far as they can. The best throw I could find for women was Kristen Churchward’s 34.35 meters (113 feet) in 2016. The best throw I could find for men was Brent Newdick’s 48.5 meters (159 feet) in 2015. That is quite a distance for a rubber boot to travel!

Nearing Waiouru, we got our first glimpse of Mount Ruapehu, one of New Zealand’s active volcanos. On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most active; Ruapehu rates a 1. That is the same level we encountered with White Island when we were at Ohope Beach. New Zealand lists twelve volcanos; Ruapehu and White Island are the only two considered currently active.

In addition to being an active volcano, Mount Ruapehu is the highest point on the North Island at 2,797 meters (9,177 feet). In Maori, Ruapehu means “pit of noise” or “exploding pit.” It last erupted on September 25, 2007. Our destination, the Chateau Tongariro, lays at the base of Ruapehu.

After our stop at Ohakune, we crossed two spectacular viaducts; Hapuawhenua and Makatote. Hapuawhenua dates from about 1907. At its highest point, the 284-meter (932 feet) viaduct is 45 meters (148 feet) above the bottom of the gorge. The Makatote is not quite as long, 262 meters (860 feet), but it is taller at 79 meters (259 feet). They both demonstrate just how rugged the terrain can be in New Zealand.

It was about 13:15 when we arrived at National Park. I did not realize it until I wrote this blog, but National Park is the highest urban township in New Zealand (825 meters or 2,707 feet). Waimarino was the original name for National Park. In Maori, it translates to “calm waters.” In 1926, the railway changed the name to National Park.

A driver from ROAM (Rivers, Oceans, and Mountains) met a young woman at the train-side and us. It took about 20 minutes to get to the Chateau Tongariro. During the drive, we could see the clouds were gathering. What little bit of blue sky we had upon arrival was the last blue sky we saw until our return train trip.

Workers laid the foundation stone for the Chateau on February 16, 1929. As part of a government subsidy, the Chateau could not cost less than £40,000 nor more than £60,000. The other stipulation was that the project must be completed by March 31, 1930. The final cost was £88,000. It was a spectacular facility and setting for the time. To put those numbers into perspective today, it would be a range of £2,363,600 (US$3,312,569) to £3,545,400 (US$4,968,877). The final price equates to £5,199,920 (US$7,287,652).

Our room was nice. It was spacious, but most importantly, it had a gas fireplace. We placed our luggage in the room and went outside to explore. We ended up at Tussock, a restaurant about 100 meters north of the Chateau. We had a glass of wine on the front terrace, overlooking Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe. They were beginning to be obscured by clouds.

The other side of our room at the Chateau Tongariro.

Our views during the stay got worse and worse. The center mountain with its top in the clouds is Mount Ngauruhoe. Just to the left is Mount Tongariro.

Mount Ngauruhoe is the taller of the two at 2,291 meters (7,516 feet). Ngauruhoe translates as “the peak of Uruhoe.” Mount Tongariro is a mere 1,978 meters (6,489 feet). Tongariro translates as “south wind borne away.” They are both volcanos. Ngauruhoe last erupted on February 19, 1975. On the other hand, Tongariro’s last eruption was much more recent, November 21, 2012.

All three mountains; Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro, played parts in The Lord of the Rings trilogy. They and the surrounding area were the shooting location for parts of the movie depicting Modor’s Gorgoroth region. Ngauruhoe, although digitally altered, played the role of Mount Doom. It seems that nearly anyplace one goes throughout New Zealand; parts of the films were made there.

The real draw to the area is the world-famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It is a one-way hike of about 19 kilometers (12 miles). Since parking at the trailhead is limited, shuttles take hikers to the start and then meet them on the other side. The trail begins at about 1,100 meters (3,609 feet), climbs to a high point of 1,900 meters (6,234 feet), and finally descends to the finish at a little more than 700 meters (2,297 feet). According to a brochure at the Chateau, the crossing takes six to eight hours. If Leslie and I had tried it, I am confident it would have been more like six to eight days, not counting the helicopter rescue!

After speaking with staff in the iSite, instead of the “long” walk, we opted for a couple of shorter walks; the ridge walk and the Whakapapa nature walk. It was a little drizzly while we walked, but it was not uncomfortable.

Just outside the iSite was a commemorative stone. That is when I realized the Tongariro National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I can see why. The park is beautiful, gifted to the people of New Zealand by a Maori chief in 1887. Visiting the park makes the 20^th World Heritage Site Leslie and I have been fortunate enough to visit. Regardless, that is not much of a dent in the over 1,000 sites worldwide.

The ridge walk begins just beyond the iSite. The sign indicated it was a 1.2-kilometer return (roundtrip) walk, taking about 30 to 40 minutes. Nearly half of the trail goes through a forest. The remainder winds through alpine shrubland. On the way up, it is definitely up. We frequently stopped to gain our breath. Just after we began, a young man passed us, going up the trail. We were about one-third of the way up when he passed us again, going down the path. I assured him we would make the summit in time for dinner. The end of the trail offered a commanding view of the Chateau and the land around. The low cloud cover limited our sight.

Whakapapa nature walk was much, much more manageable. It is a sealed trail that winds through some of the beech forests. There were plaques near plants identifying many of the species and describing the plant. However, my favorite part was the two detour trails I took. Both led me down to the Whakapapanui Stream. I thought it provided some excellent photographic opportunities.

Many walks are available throughout the park.

That evening we splurged, opting for dinner in the Ruapehu Room. We selected the Chateau Briand for two. I do not think I had ever had that before. I would definitely have it again. It was delicious.

The next morning, Leslie was not feeling well. I walked up the road to a small store to see if I could find something like Pepto-Bismol. They had nothing of the sort. On my way to the store, I saw the old building across from the Chateau was open. I had not previously seen it open. The sign out front touted “authentic Maori art.” I went inside. I immediately saw two massive logs lying on the floor. They were being carved for a display in the area. The wood had a diameter of nearly three feet, and each was about 12-feet long. The carving was very intricate, with numerous Maori themes. The man I talked with about the project said it takes them about four months to complete the two sculptures. There were some art objects for sale, but nothing interested me.

At about 12:15, a woman from ROAM picked us up at the chateau for our short ride to National Park to catch our train. When we arrived at the station, she explained that the station has absolutely nothing to do with the train. Instead, it is a restaurant. Our ticketing and baggage would be handled right at train-side.

The train was a few minutes late, but soon we were on our way south. At the start of this blog, I waxed poetically about the romance of riding the rails. Quite frankly, that had worn off for both of us. After all, with a plane ride of a similar duration, we could be in Tahiti. We were tired and ready to be home.

The train platform at National Park, New Zealand.

Our seats on the return journey were in Carriage D, 7C and 7D. These were much more comfortable than on our initial trip. These seats were akin to airline seats in that they all faced forward and they all had trays stored in the seatbacks. We were able to stretch our legs out with no problem.

The only problem we had to endure again was the heat in the carriage. We were both amazed at the number of passengers wearing heavy jackets. Regardless, the time seemed to pass quickly. We were back in Wellington by 18:30.

KiwiRail, the national rail system of New Zealand.

Exterior view of our car for the next five-plus hours.

Did I mention she is absolutely ready for the train trip?!

A station outbuilding. The sign boasts “Backing Black Caps”, the New Zealand national cricket team.

The Rangitikei River alongside the tracks.

Yet another view of the Rangitikei gorge.

A green paddock stretching to the far hills.

The locomotive, the baggage carriage, and our passenger carriage.

It appears the sheep shall never want for a paddock in which to graze!

Sheep dining near two Cabbage (ti kouka) trees.

Sheep seem to go anywhere in the paddocks.

Our views on during the stay got worse and worse. The center mountain with its top in the clouds is Mount Ngauruhoe. Just to the left is Mount Tongariro.

Tiki carving detail outside of the iSite.

Some of the moss-type plants in the area.

Whakapapanui Stream as seen from a pedestrian bridge near Whakapapa Holiday Park.

Plants and moss near Whakapapanui Stream.

One, small, lone red berry (hint – near the center).

The ferns extended all the way to the canopy.

Old building across from the Chateau. This is where the Maori carvings were stored.

TranzAlpine Train & Christchurch

Christchurch, New Zealand – February 23, 2016

We departed Greymouth at about 14:30, some 40 minutes late. We were on-board the KiwiRail, TranzAlpine train, heading to Christchurch. It is called the TranzAlpine because it bisects the South Island of New Zealand, going over and through the Southern Alps. Our impending journey was about four hours long. We were all excited for the penultimate portion of our tour of the South Island.

Our seats were in carriage H, the last enclosed carriage of the train. Behind carriage, H followed the last carriage of the train, the observation carriage. The unique thing about the observation carriage was that it was completely open. There was nothing to come between the camera and the photo. I spent more than half of the four-hour journey standing up in the observation carriage. When the tracks turned just right, I could capture the front of the train.
While not having any glass to introduce glare into my photographs was nice, the observation carriage came with its own set of challenges. First of all, when the train was moving at full-speed, I had to mind my cap. With the wind blasting in from both sides, it could have quickly relieved me of my cherished hat. Secondly, moving that fast, I estimate 100 to 120 kilometers per hour (62 to 75 mph), it was challenging to keep one’s balance. I know that added some camera shake to many of my photographs. Regardless, it was an exhilarating experience.

The trip is not an express, stopping at seven small towns between Greymouth and Christchurch. The stops include Kokiri, Moana, Otira, Arthur’s Pass, Springfield, Darfield, and Rolleston. At times, the tracks paralleled a road. At other times, the train tracks were the only thing to be seen in the valley. Frequently, the train traveled parallel to streams and rivers. It is incredible to me to see how clear the water is in New Zealand. It is so clear that it makes it very difficult to fly fish. The fish can easily see when someone approaches.

Each passenger received a set of earphones. I did not use them; I was too busy going back and forth to the observation carriage. Lorraine thought the narrative available through the earphones enhanced the journey. The narrator shared history and tidbits of information all along the route.

Listening to the narrative while on the journey.

The town of Otira is at the entrance to the Otira Tunnel. On the Christchurch side of the tunnel is the village of Arthur’s Pass. The tunnel is just over five miles long. Part of the reason for the stop at Otira is to couple an additional engine to the rear of the train. The reason for the second engine is safety. In case there is a problem in the tunnel, the engines can pull the train to safety, regardless of which direction. The trip from Otira to Arthur’s Pass has a gain in altitude of over 800 feet. While Baldwin Street is steeper at 1:5 (see blog entry Otago & Olveston), the pitch of the tunnel is 1:33. Opened in 1923, the tunnel was the seventh-longest tunnel in the world at that time. The observation carriage was closed during the trip through the tunnel.

The train stopped on the Arthur’s Pass side of the tunnel, to allow the uncoupling of the second engine.

Preparing to couple onto the rear of the train at Otira.

With all the stops and because of our late departure, we were an hour late arriving in Christchurch. We disembarked and walked to the front of the train to retrieve our baggage. My bag was the absolute last one to come off the train. The last bag in hand; we walked outside the station. We abruptly discovered taxis were scarce. Many of the taxi drivers tired of waiting for the late train. They departed to find other fares. That left 30 or 40 passengers waiting for taxis. One by one, taxis dribbled back to the station and loaded with crankier and crankier passengers. I do not think we were grumpy, but I know we were thrilled when we were finally able to get in a taxi.
Unfortunately, I was not familiar that Corporate Cabs operates in Christchurch. Had I known, I could have made a reservation ahead of time. That would have meant a cab would be there waiting for us regardless of our arrival time. Oh well, live and learn!On our way to the Ibis Christchurch hotel, I asked our driver if he had been in Christchurch when the big earthquake struck February 22, 2011. He said he was. Liquefaction destroyed his home. As we drove along, it was apparent that Christchurch was not back to 100 percent. Many buildings still stood damaged. The driver said that wherever there was a vacant lot, there had been a structure there before the earthquake.
I felt sad for and about the city. It seemed to be only a shell of its former self. The central business district should have been bustling with people, business, and commerce. It was not; it just seemed to be “existing.”
By the time we made it to the hotel, we were all tired and hungry. We checked-in tossed our bags in our rooms and made a beeline for the hotel restaurant.
The next morning, after breakfast, we were ready to explore Christchurch. Just around the corner from the hotel is the Christchurch Anglican Cathedral. Construction on the Cathedral began in 1864. It took 40 years to complete. The 2011 earthquake partially destroyed the Cathedral in a matter of seconds. Indecision and inaction, except for some bracing and some screening fencing, means it remains in a state of disrepair. It was sad to see it in that condition.

Very near the Cathedral, we discovered the Christchurch Tramway. The Tramway is public transportation utilizing restored streetcars dating from the early 20^th Century. The tickets we purchased allowed us to use the Tramway throughout the day.

We got off the Tramway at the Canterbury Museum. The main building of the museum dates from 1870. There have been some building additions since then.
Our first stop in the museum was the Christchurch Street area. The area housed multiple storefronts reminiscent of the 1870s Christchurch. Each of the storefronts contained period artifacts. We truly got the feeling of walking in Christchurch in the late 19th Century. One exit from the Christchurch Street exhibit led directly into an old gallery area containing 19th Century costumes and decorative arts.
One of the unique exhibits in the museum is the Paua Shell House that has some actual portions of and furniture from a real home in Bluff, New Zealand. Fred and Myrtle Flutely covered their home in Bluff, inside and out, with paua shells. Leslie and I both like paua shells. They are beautiful; however, I think we will stop short of doing our house up with the shells. It took Fred and Myrtle 40 years to cover the home. I am sure it was a real conversation piece while it was located in Bluff.

Departing the museum, we boarded the Tramway again. This time we got off on the famous New Regent Street. The street is a block-long collection of pastel-colored two-story buildings, dating from the mid-1930s. The ground level shops were a mixture of coffee shops, cafés, and boutiques. After walking the city for a while, it was back on the Tramway.

Our next stop was the Christchurch Art Gallery. Since it was lunchtime, we first stopped at the Fiddlesticks Restaurant and Bar that is directly across the street.

Detail of Ana Reupene Whetuki and Child (Ngati Maru) by Gottfried Lindauer (1880).

There is an outstanding collection of art in the gallery. From the second floor, one can see the Maori totem in front of Christchurch City Hall from a window. When we left the museum, Hillary was able to pose with her best haka face in front of the totem.
After the haka pose, we waited across from the museum for the next Tramway. After 15 minutes, we still had not seen a Tram. I finally called the Tramway company. The person that answered the phone told me the Tram was no longer running that day because of issues beyond their control. We discovered later that the track along New Regent Street was closed. Some newly discovered earthquake damage on one of the buildings caused the closure. I certainly did not notice anything dangerous about the premises while we were there earlier in the day. But then again, I was not looking for anything. After hearing that news, we strolled back to the hotel for some well-deserved naps.

Posing in front of the Maori pouwhenua at the Christchurch City Council building.

When we woke up, we had one more stop we wanted to make, the “Container Mall.” The actual name of the development is Re: START Mall. A few blocks from our hotel, this area is several retail stores housed in uniquely positioned metal shipping containers. The idea is to replace temporarily the shopping spaces damaged or demolished because of the 2011 earthquake. I have certainly never seen another mall like that one.

I could not keep the earthquake out of my mind. The ground on which the mall is situated was no doubt the location of multiple buildings; buildings that were destroyed and subsequently razed. Colorful paint on many of the containers made the setting a little less industrial. Additionally, there were several pieces of whimsical art throughout the mall.

The shopping was uneventful. None of us purchased anything. We strolled back to the hotel and prepared for our departure from Christchurch the next day.
After a leisurely breakfast and morning, we hailed a taxi and headed to the Christchurch airport. The airport was rehabbed after the 2011 earthquake. Our wait went like clockwork, taking off on time.
The flight was uneventful. It was a little bumpy on our approach into Wellington; however, it was not as bad as the first day Leslie, and I arrived a few months ago.

At times, there seemed to be a lot of nothingness.

Looking forward from the observation car.

Closer view of the mountain peaks and river.

Looking down into a valley and at the river.

The stream running along the valley floor.

The train making a fairly tight left turn.

Awaiting the arrival at the Otira depot.

A group of school children preparing to enter the Canterbury Museum.

A sarcophagus with very detailed painting.

The pastel facades that are New Regent Street.

The main streetcar stop at the end of New Regent Street.

Looking in the opposite direction from the New Regent Street stop.

Modular 3, Series 2 by Ray Thornburn (1970).

Detail of Pip & Pop: The newest new wold.

Detail of Clearing up After the Rain, Foot of Otira Gorge by John Gibb (1887).

Detail of The Dutch Funeral by Petrus van der Velden (1875).

Povi Christkeke by Michael Tuffery (1999).

Detail of Povi Christkeke by Michael Tuffery (1999).

My Sister, My Self by Michael Parekowhai (2006).

Detail of The Physician by Gerrit Dou (1653).

Greymouth

Greymouth, New Zealand – February 22, 2016

Our 120-mile journey from Fox Glacier to Greymouth took about three hours. I think all of the driving was beginning to wear on us since we did not stop along the way for anything.

We arrived at our “home,” the Gables Motor Lodge around noon. We were too early to check-in. The owner gave us directions to the central business district so we could find somewhere to eat lunch. By chance, we parked on Mackay Street, just across from Maggie’s Kitchen. The restaurant was full of people. That is always a good sign for good food. We were not disappointed with the New Zealand home-cooking fare.

After lunch, shopping was the order of the day. One of the stores we stopped in was Shades of Jade on Tainui Street. The young man operating the shop was very nice. He hunted and ultimately carved greenstone for sale in the store. Greenstone is a type of jade found in New Zealand. We were aware of that before we made it to Greymouth. In fact, at Gillespies Beach near Fox Glacier, I had found some green stones that I hoped were actually greenstone. We asked the young man if he would look at the stones. He said yes, so I ran back to the SUV to retrieve the stones. Returning to the store, I gave him the stones. He quickly, but kindly dashed our hopes. They were stones that look green when they are wet, but they were not greenstones.

Our next stop, to kill time, was about two miles away. We drove to the end of a spit of land on the north side of the mouth of the Grey River (Mawheranui in Maori). We watched the waves from the Tasman Sea crash onto the spits on either side of the river mouth. Several other people were doing the same thing. Having lost its entertainment value, we decided it was time to return to the motor lodge and check-in. Upon arrival, we were able to check-in, just in time for a nap.

Some waves at the Northern Breakwater. The point is also known as Shipwreck Point.

The next morning we checked out of the motor lodge and went directly to Maggie’s Kitchen for breakfast. Within 100 meters of the restaurant, we could feel our arteries clogging, but we were ready to take on the homemade breakfast. Once again, we were both thoroughly satisfied and thoroughly stuffed.

The plan for the day was to catch the 13:00 train from Greymouth to Christchurch. However, before doing that, the owner of the motor lodge told us about the pancake rocks at Punakaiki. Since it was only about a 40-minute drive to the north of Greymouth, we decided to visit it prior to catching the train. That was a great decision.

The highway skirted along the coast for nearly our entire route. It was mostly cloudy that day, but it was still a breathtaking view.

The Pancake Rocks Blowholes are part of the Paparoa National Park. At the site, there are a few gift shops, some cafés, and a National Park building. Across the street from all of that is the path to go view the Pancake Rocks Blowholes. The path was asphalt. It was a fairly easy one-half mile round trip walk. I categorize it as “fairly easy” because of the stairs. There are some stairs that can prove to be a bit of an obstacle to those with mobility issues. However, those areas can be bypassed. The views are worth the walk.

Pancake Rocks Blowholes are a limestone formation. The many layers look somewhat like a stack of pancakes. Over millions of years, the formation rose above the ocean due to seismic activity, forming the existing cliffs. Erosion by the sea and rain formed holes in the rock formations. These are the blowholes. Now, when waves crash against the formation, some of the water and force goes through the holes, resulting in spray coming up and out of the blowholes. We were there about halfway between low tide and high tide. That had a dampening effect on the blowholes, but it was still very interesting to see and experience the phenomenon.

One can see why the area is known as Pancake Rocks.

We departed the National Park, bound for the train station in Greymouth. After arriving at the station, we turned in the rental car, checked in our luggage, and confirmed our tickets. We had plenty of time. While Leslie and Lorraine sat at the station, Hillary and I walked to Subway to get lunch. Returning, we all ate while we waited for the train.

The train was a little late arriving. After the passengers disembarked, the engine pulled the train farther into town, out of our site. At first, I was not sure why that happened. Then it dawned on me the train had to go to the main rail-yard so the engine could move to the front of the train cars for the return trip to Christchurch. The train returned and we all boarded. However, we did not depart. I imagine the employees needed the time to load the baggage on the train. While on-board, waiting to depart, Hillary and I stood in the observation car, taking photographs.

This is one of the most interesting coastlines on the South Island.

There are holes in the landscape everywhere.

A koru, one of my favorite photo subjects.

Just north of Greymouth, a stream heading to the Tasman Sea.

The Grey River looking toward the Tasman Sea.

A very happy KiwiRail employee as the train pulls into the depot.

Tourists walking by a rental car lot and the Greymouth Star building.

The back side of one of the shops in Greymouth.

At the time, the store was in receivership.

A typical warning sign near the train depot.

Christmas Market

Chicago, Illinois – December 6, 2014

The first day after Navy boot camp graduation, we had lunch with several family members that live close to Great Lakes, Illinois. One of them told us about the Christmas Market happening in downtown Chicago. We decided to go check it out.
Our drive took about an hour. We found a parking space in a parking garage directly across from Daley Center, the location of the market. The elevator from the garage brought us into the heart of the shopping mall known as Block Thirty-Seven. We made our way through the mall to the exit onto North Dearborn Street. As we approached the glass doors, we could see across the street to the Christmas Market.
We went outside, crossed the street, and found ourselves immersed in a sea of humanity. It was challenging to navigate through the crowd. I saw several people pushing strollers through the crowd, which did not seem like such a good idea to me.

The Christmas tree towered over the Christmas Market.

The Picasso sculpture in Daley Center seems to be watching over the people at the Christmas Market.

People gathered at the fringe of the Christmas Market.

There were so many people at the Christmas Market that, at times, there seemed barely enough room for oxygen.

The flags and a menorah above the Christmas Market at Daley Center in downtown Chicago, Illinois.

Several vendors were selling Christmas ornaments and crafts. A few vendors were selling everything from nuts to pretzels. One very popular vendor offered warm wine in small ceramic keepsake mugs. We waded through the crowd to get our wine. It was quite good. Near the entry to that vendor was a German band. They played several Christmas favorites while we stood and listened.

Ah yes…warm wine in souvenir mugs…priceless!!

This particular shop at the Christmas Market specialized in the Christmas carousels powered by the heat of candles.

People gathered in front of a purveyor of German beer steins.

Detail of some intricate and beautifully painted Christmas ornaments.

This may have been our favorite shop. They sold all sorts of Christmas treats.

This woman served us some of the hot candied nuts. They were amazingly good!

The German band made the Christmas Market complete.

After exploring all that we wanted at the Christmas Market, we decided to walk a little farther north on Dearborn. It was very, very windy and cold. Chicago was living up to its moniker of the windy city.

Looking north on Dearborn Street in downtown Chicago, Illinois.

A view to the east on West Randolph Street in downtown Chicago, Illinois.

We walked by a lively bar, Petterino’s. We went into the bar to find a seat and have a drink. We found none available. We were close to the L. I wanted to take some photographs of that iconic Chicago landmark. So, Leslie stayed behind at Petterino’s to wait for a seat while Hillary, Tyler, and I walked to the elevated train tracks at Lake Street. I took a couple of photos and then turned us all back toward Petterino’s. Did I mention it was very, very cold?

A train passes over North Dearborn Street at Lake Street on the L (elevated rail).

A train seemed to pass by on the L every minute or so.

Looking to the east at Lake Street and North Dearborn Street. It seems to be a different world under the L.

Inside Petterino’s, Leslie had found a small table and two bar stools. We sat there for a drink while Hillary and Tyler stood with their drinks. The extravagant and eclectic Christmas decorations made the old bar feel quite cozy. The backlit sign above the bar caught my eye; “A woman drove me to drink and I never even had the courtesy to thank her. W. C. Fields.”

A W.C. Fields quotation above the bar at Petterino’s.

The Navy Seaman and his sister at Petterino’s on North Dearborn Street.

The drink menu above the bar at Petterino’s.

The ceiling at Petterino’s had an eclectic Christmas feel.

Patrons at Petterinos drinking and dining below the actors who have appeared at the Goodman Theatre.

One of the Christmas ornaments at Petterino’s.

Detail of some of the decorations on the ceiling at Petterino’s.

A nutcracker on the ceiling at Petterino’s.

Hillary at Petterino’s in downtown Chicago, Illinois.

Hillary was just happy the wine had arrived…

We finished our drinks, made our way back to the car, and began the hour-long drive back to the hotel area for dinner. We all enjoyed the trip.