Cape Palliser is another of our favorite spots in New Zealand. Located on the southernmost point of the North Island, it has a rugged beauty. Add to that beauty a spectacular red and white lighthouse and herds of seals and one has the recipe for a beautiful outdoor experience. There are very few trees at this location. That adds to the stark look.
Nearing the small village of Pirinoa, one passes the little Burnside Presbyterian Church. It was a beautiful day for photographs. The church dates from 1875 and has a small cemetery off to one side. Other than flowers and trees, there is nothing else around.
The Burnside Presbyterian Church. A sign out front noted the church dates from 1875.
The Cape Palliser Lighthouse is literally at the end of the road. For much of its length, the way hugs the beach, which allows storms can wreak havoc on the road. In places, only one vehicle may pass at a time. Not long after leaving the small fishing village of Ngawi, the sealed road ends. The remainder of the way is simply a dirt road.
At the end of the road is a parking lot and, thankfully, a toilet. Towering above the parking lot is a large, rugged hillside, at the top of which is the lighthouse. I wanted a photograph of the lighthouse with the ocean in the background. I was not able to get a decent picture in the past because of the lens I had. The issue is that one can only stand so far back from the lighthouse without risking a fall down the hillside.
Just like the first time Leslie and I visited, 261 stairs were separating the lighthouse from the parking lot. None of my traveling companions were interested in taking on that many stairs. Being not quite as bright as the others, I decided I must go up. The reward for my ascent was a spectacular view of the lighthouse and the ocean. As a bonus, I was there all by myself.
The Cape Palliser Lighthouse.
As I was ready to descend, I saw three people who had just begun their ascent. The stairs are very narrow and very steep. I decided to wait until they made it up to the lighthouse before I started down. It is hard to say which is more taxing; the journey up or the walk down. Regardless, I shan’t have to worry about ever making the trip again…been there, done that.
Also, it is 261 down!
While I had been on my little adventure, my traveling companions explored the beach near the parking lot. At that point, the beach is challenging to travel across. That is due to the fist-sized stones covering the beach. It is hard to get stable, proper footing. Regardless, they did locate a lone bull seal napping on rocks at the water’s edge.
A yawning bull seal.
We got back in the car and began the return trip, stopping to look at various seal herds along the way. Just before the tiny village of Mangatoetoe, there is a small piece of land that juts out into the sea. The little peninsula forms a small, protected bay and some tidepools. Every time we have visited, we have always seen seals there. This day was no different.
By far, my favorite seal of the day was “Cruiser.” I am not sure if the youngster was a male or female, but it was undoubtedly mobile. That seal cruised all over the area. It seemed not a centimeter of the area was left unexplored. Something is mesmerizing about watching seals in their natural habitat. I know that is one of the things about New Zealand that I shall miss when we depart.
“Cruiser,” the very energetic seal pup. He or she cruised all over the rocks.
On our way to the lighthouse, as we drove through Ngawi, I noticed the Captain’s Table food trailer was not open. That meant if we wanted lunch, we would need to drive to Lake Ferry. As we entered Ngawi on our return, it was open for business. That was great news!
Adjacent to the Captain’s Table is a small camping area. We ordered our lunches and then waited at a picnic table. That did not last long. The sun was very intense, so we gathered our food and sat in the air-conditioned comfort of the car to eat.
The food trailer. This is the only food commercially available in Ngawi. When it is open, it is a must stop!
After lunch, it was a leisurely drive back home.
The Burnside Presbyterian Church near Pirinoa.261!!!View from the Cape Palliser Lighthouse. This is part of the Matakitaki-a-kupe Reserve.Truly in the rocks.Just barely raising its head. Sorry to have disturbed you.This must be how seals enjoy life.Cruiser going up a “cliff.”Ten seals.One seal playing in the small inlet.Life on the edge.Two seals and a gull.Cruiser and, maybe, mom.That just cannot be comfortable…Shortly after this shot, the seal had to abandon its post because of an incoming wave.Cruiser checking out the photographer.Another gull on the rocks. That sounds like a New Zealand cocktail…“Cruiser,” the very energetic seal pup. He or she cruised all over the rocks.Lounging seal. I guess the rock close to her head is a pillow??A gull on the rocks.Cape Palliser Lighthouse in the distance.After a hard morning of swimming, this seal could not make it very far before a nap took over.The nearby rocks must provide a sense of protection. Regardless, the flat rock seems much more comfortable than some of the other resting spots observed.A female Paradise shelduck.Gettin’ a little sun on the belly, ahhh!Rocky beach near Mangatoetoe.Awaiting lunch from the Captain’s Table food trailer in Ngawi.In the backyard, waiting for the grill to heat up. This was after a hard day of seal watching.
Two days after Christmas, we decided to take Leslie’s mom, Lorraine, to Cape Palliser. We wanted to show her the Cape Palliser lighthouse. We also thought the chances were good to see some fur seals. It takes about two hours to make the 120 km (75 miles) journey.
This was the second trip for Leslie and me. As a photographer, I am always looking for that “just right” shot. Even though I made numerous photos of the Cape Palliser lighthouse on our last journey, I was keen to have another go. The 250 steps up to the lighthouse did not deter me, at least in my mind.
Palliser Bay on the south end of the North Island.
During our drive, I could tell it was windy. When we stopped at the car park at the base of the lighthouse and got out, we knew it was windy. The speed of the wind was a sustained 57 km/h (35 mph) with gusts of 85 km/h (53 mph). After a quick exploration outside the car, Lorraine sought refuge back in the car. Because of the wind, I decided I did not wish to climb the stairs to the lighthouse for more photographs.
Leslie and I remembered during the first visit we saw fur seals near the beach at the lighthouse. Arm-in-arm to survive the wind and to stay upright on the rocks, and we walked to the beach. We hoped to see some seals so we could share them with Lorraine. We found none. Battling the wind, we made it back to the car.
About 500 meters (0.3 miles) down the road, I spied an area of sandy beach. I stopped and walked toward the ocean, looking for seals. To my left was a rock that formed a kind of roof. I heard a noise to my left. I suddenly spotted a female fur seal lying on the sand under the rock. I turned around and went back to the car to report. Leslie and Lorraine got out of the vehicle. We walked to the other side of the car to begin our walk to the beach. At this point, the road is gravel and, of course, the beach is sand. Suddenly, a wind gust hit us. It nearly knocked us all off our feet. Coupled with the blast was sand, lots of sand. I now know what metal feels like when sandblasted in preparation for paint. As quickly as we could, we all clamored back into the car. The remainder of the day had us all picking and combing sand out of our hair. Since we did not make more than one step from the car, Lorraine did not see the seal I spotted.
Continuing west, we drove onto a point. Protected from the wind by rocks, we saw seals in that area on our last visit. We were in luck again. We saw a large herd of seals resting on the rocks near a small inlet. We have all seen seals before in zoos and aquariums. However, something is thrilling about seeing an animal in its natural habitat. I think we all felt a little like David Attenborough. The New Zealand Department of Conservation recommends people get no closer than 20 meters (65 feet) to the seals. Even at that distance, it feels like one is right there with the herd. It is fascinating to stand and observe the seals.
This small inlet near the Cape Palliser lighthouse is a favorite resting point for fur seals.A herd of fur seals.
When we tired of watching the seals, we got back in the car. Our original plan was to stop for lunch at the food truck in the small fishing village of Ngawi. Unfortunately, on our way to Cape Palliser earlier that morning, we noticed the food truck was closed tight. We adjusted our plan to Featherston.
The Everest Bistro is one of our favorite stops in Featherston, especially since they offer stone-fired pizza. Unfortunately, we discovered Tuesdays are no pizza days. We had sandwiches instead.
About 45 minutes after leaving Featherston, we were back home.
A herd of fur seals.This fur seal must have a sore throat. One can only wonder why…A fur seal acknowledging her photo is being made.A fur seal looking back to the ocean.The fur seals really do blend into their surroundings quite well.A female fur seal making very uncomfortable looking rock seems almost comfy.It is hard to understand how this fur seal can possibly nap on such a rocky surface.A female fur seal “yelling” at an approaching bull to stay away from her part of the rock.A bull fur seal turning his attention to another female.A female fur seal makes this rock look like a down pillow.Something disturbed this female fur seal.Other than the rock pillow, this fur seal seems to have found the most comfortable place to nap.
On the spur of the moment, we decided to drive to the Cape Palliser Lighthouse. The two-hour drive began by going over Rimutaka Pass, one of Leslie’s favorites…not. It is a very twisty-turny road, a two-lane highway with periodic passing lanes. The views are spectacular.
Just outside of Featherston, we turned south on Kahutara Road. Along the way, we drove across a bridge over the Ruamahanga River. It was very picturesque. I kept that in the back of my mind. Shortly after the crossing, we turned onto Lake Ferry Road and finally onto Cape Palliser Road. It was on Lake Ferry Road where we discovered the Burnside Presbyterian Church. A sign out front noted the church dates from 1875. The morning light made for a picturesque photo.
The Burnside Church.
Soon, we were parallel to the coast, driving through some farms. We looked to the south and were surprised to see a snowcapped mountain on the south island. Researching after the fact, I found the peak is Mount Tapuae-O-Ueneku. It is nearly 9,500 feet tall. Surprisingly, the distance between the mountain and us was approximately 90 miles. We also saw Mount Franklyn. It is almost 7,700 feet tall. At nearly 140 miles, I am surprised we could see the peak.
Mount Tapuae-O-Ueneku is on the right. Mount Franklyn is on the left. They are both on the South Island.Mount Tapuae-O-Ueneku.
That morning, the ocean was a fantastic shade of blue. From the farmland, the road descends several hundred feet to the coast. The way at that point is right beside the ocean. Imagining driving along that road during a strong southerly storm sent chills down my spine. I am sure the waves are treacherous during such a blast. With that idea in mind, a precariously situated house caught my eye. I stopped at the beach for some photos. We could see a blue beach home nearly ready to fall into the surf. It appeared the house was vacant for some time. I was a little surprised the home was still there as opposed to being razed and removed. The home was teetering, seemingly awaiting the next storm and its inevitable destiny with the ocean.
Precarious!!Looking across Palliser Bay toward Turakirae Head.Bird tracks.Rock in the sand.The southerly storms have obviously pounded this section of coastline.
We stopped at a rocky point less than a mile from the Cape Palliser Lighthouse. The rocks seemed similar to those at the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki; although there were no blowholes there (see Greymouth). The ocean was relatively calm that morning. Regardless, at that particular point, the sea was quite agitated. The crashing waves mesmerized us.
Rocks near Mangatoetoe.More of the jagged rocks near Mangatoetoe.Surf at the rocks near Mangatoetoe.
The parking area at the end of the Cape Palliser Road is directly at the base of the stairs that lead to the Cape Palliser Lighthouse. From the parking area, the stairs looked more like an overgrown ladder than actual stairs. In continuous operation since October 27, 1897, the lighthouse is 60 feet tall. Ships as far as thirty miles from shore can spot the light. The red and white paint scheme makes the lighthouse very visible against the brownish-gray of the hillside on which it sits.
At the base of the stairs, we saw a sign with the sad note, “…261 steps it takes to reach it.” From our point of view, it indeed appeared it was the stairway to Heaven. I must admit I was shocked to hear Leslie declare she was game to climb the stairs. We enthusiastically began our ascent. In increments of 50, someone using a felt marker on the sides of the stairs reminded one of their progress to that point. We stopped frequently. Ultimately, we passed that 261st stair and stood on the concrete pad at the base of the lighthouse.
Cape Palliser lighthouse showing the Stairway to Heaven.WARNING Please take care use these steps at your own risk.Seashell at the base of the stairs.The lighthouse as seen from about halfway up the stairs.Tread number 200…Kirikiri Bay.Made it to the top!!Straight up the side!Cape Palliser lighthouse.Some visitors.A long way down!
The view from the lighthouse was commanding. A woman with some friends and a group of children pointed out to us where we might find fur seals when we descended from the lighthouse. None of her directions included the parking area below the lighthouse. We soon found out otherwise. Nevertheless, looking down the stairs, it again appeared as a stairway from heaven. Even though gravity was working well, going down was not easy. By the time we reached the base of the stairs, I had thought my knees would pop.
Back on level ground, we decided to walk the short distance to the beach. I stopped there to take some photographs. While I was taking a picture, the woman that gave seal directions to us at the lighthouse called out to the children, essentially saying no, no. The children had run in front of my shot, so I thought she was chastising them for that action. When I lowered my camera, I saw that she was commanding them to stop before they got too close to a seal. Sure enough, there within about fifty feet of me was a fur seal. The seal, lying on its back, raised its head and grunted toward the children. Once sure the children were no longer a threat, the seal lay down again, belly pointing to the sun.
The moment of a seal discovery.
We have seen seals before, but never in their natural habitat. I began channeling my inner David Attenborough, snapping photographs wildly. After several shots, I stepped more to my left, looking for a better angle, stopped and took several more photos. I repeated that motion several times, never getting closer to the seal, just looking for a better perspective. On my final shuffle, the snort of another seal startled me. My inner Attenborough nearly soiled my britches. This snorting seal was about fifteen feet away, hidden in a bedding area amongst several small bushes. As soon as I stopped, the snorting stopped. That seal went back to sunning itself too.
After the startling encounter, we walked back to our vehicle. We drove back along the Cape Palliser Road; we stopped at one of the locations that the woman at the lighthouse said held a fur seal colony. We parked the vehicle and walked down to the beach. Soon we spotted our first seal, lying on a rock. Then we saw several more lying on the grass. Suddenly, it seemed seals were everywhere. We stood there for quite a while, just watching. We also noticed the seals come with their colony odor. It is unmistakable. I am not sure which is worse; the seals’ odor or the Gannets’ odor (see Gannets Everywhere ).
The wake-up stretch.
Rousing from slumber.It was like I was not even there.A soft place for a nap.Are you looking at us???A perfect spot for a nap.Seal colony near Mangatoetoe.I interrupted at least one nap.The eyes opened, but nothing else on her moved. She was very relaxed.Seal colony near Mangatoetoe.Not my idea of comfort.
When we tired of watching, we walked back to our vehicle. Once there, Leslie decided to sit down. I decided to walk to a rock formation. I hoped to get a different view of the sea. Instead, my inner Attenborough stumbled across several hidden seals, each providing a surprised grunt as I unwittingly stepped too close. They did provide me with some excellent photo opportunities. Deciding I could not get to my desired vantage point without ending up in the middle of the seal colony, I opted to return to the car.
As I noted earlier, our trip was spontaneous. That meant we had not packed a lunch. When I returned to the vehicle, Leslie suggested we stop at the small food trailer in the almost as small fishing village of Ngawi. That sounded like a great idea to me. On the way back to that village, we saw a sign warning of penguins crossing. We have seen several such signs on our New Zealand travels, but we have yet to see a penguin in the wild.
The small food trailer is right on the beach at the edge of Ngawi. Several people stood at the front of the trailer when we arrived, waiting to order. Leslie chose the fish tortilla while I decided on the cheeseburger. We also each ordered chips (French fries) and fizzy drinks. The lunch cost us about US$16. Not bad, considering the number of chips they gave us could have fed Ngawi for two to three days!
We ate across the street from the trailer, sitting on a bench next to the Ngawi Community Hall. Leslie said the fish tortilla (essentially a soft-shelled fish taco) was the best in the world. My cheeseburger was perfect. Something different was the pickled red beet added to the burger. It took the place of a sweet pickle. As we walked back across the street, Leslie told the two women operating the trailer how much she enjoyed the fish tortilla. That thrilled them to no end.
CAUTIONThe one and only lunch spot in Ngawi.Ngawi Community Hall.Taking a boat back home.
As Americans, I think our thought of a traditional fishing village includes a marina. In Ngawi, the “marina” was full of diesel bulldozers. The bulldozers and some tractors attach to boat trailers. The trailer tongues are extraordinarily long. The bulldozers back the trailers into the surf to launch and retrieve the fishing boats. It is fascinating to watch. This method of boat delivery to the ocean is the same as what we experienced when we visited Kapiti Island.
On the drive back toward home, I recalled the beautiful view on the bridge over the Ruamahanga River. This time, I parked just on the other side of the bridge. The bridge is a very narrow, two-lane bridge. There is no room for pedestrians. Luckily, there is not a lot of traffic. Leslie and I walked to the center of the bridge. I was able to take several good photographs. At one point, a car driving over the bridge slowed to a crawl to see precisely what I was photographing. Once they saw it was merely a landscape, the sped on across. We drove back over Rimutaka Pass and arrived home around 16:00. It was a beautiful day trip.
The Ruamahanga River looking toward the Aorangi Forest Park.Fisherman on the Ruamahanga River.Cattle in the distance.A fence with shoes for some reason.The hillside facing the ocean.View of the ocean from Cape Palliser Road.The rocky beach at Ngawi.This is how fishing boats are launched at Ngawi.The Pacific Ocean just keeps rolling in.A bay near Mangatoetoe.Waves crash against the opposite side of the rocks.Our magic carpet.The green paddocks and hills of New Zealand.
