Tag: Snake

Paramaribo with my Bride

Paramaribo, Suriname – April 6, 2014

Leslie and I left home, bound for Ogle Airport in Cummings Lodge, Guyana. The airport is only about a 10-minute drive from our home. We arrived right at 06:00 even though check-in for our flight was not due to begin until 07:00. We just sat and watched the sunrise and the intermittent rain.
Even though Ogle is an international airport, it is not very busy. That is because virtually the only planes flying in and out are 12-passenger Cessna Caravans (plus two for the pilot and co-pilot). So even if three full flights are leaving at the same time, there is a maximum of 36 people at the terminal. Most of the Cessna Caravans from Ogle have been fitted with a small cargo-hold under the plane. Regardless, one is restricted to a mere 33-pounds of luggage. At the check-in counter, they weigh both the luggage and the traveler, separately!
We checked in on time, went through passport control, security, and then finally sat down in the air-conditioned waiting area. The waiting area before checking-in is open-air. Through the window, we could see one of Trans Guyana Airline’s Cessna Caravans parked on the apron. Both sides of the engine cowling were propped open. We saw several small planes take off over the hour or so we were there. Ultimately we boarded the lone plane we had seen on the apron.

Our trusty steed…

We sat in the rearmost bench seat and were joined by ten other passengers and the pilot. On this particular flight, the co-pilot seat was vacant; however, I have seen a passenger sit in that seat on several occasions in the past. Our boarding had begun at 08:25. By 08:30 the pilot was taxiing on the single runway. The airport is so small there is not a separate taxiway. So, takeoff, landing, and taxiing all take place on the same piece of concrete.
The taxiway dead-ends into the runway at about the mid-point of the runway. Once the pilot was sure there were no planes coming or going on the runway, he pulled onto the runway and turned left. We taxied to the south end of the runway on the runway itself. At the end, there is an additional portion of the paved area that provides enough room for the plane to do a u-turn. As soon as we had turned back to the north, the pilot pushed the throttle forward. In no time we were airborne, leaving the 4,200 foot (1,280 meters) runway below. After gaining about 500 or 600 feet of altitude, the pilot turned right and aimed us at Paramaribo for our 1:15 duration flight.
Except for some very minor corrections on our heading, it is virtually a straight-line flight to the one runway at Zorg en Hoop International airport in Paramaribo. That airport is very similar to Ogle, although it is a bit smaller. The runway there is only 2,559 feet (780 meters). The flight itself was relatively smooth. The approach, as usual, was a little bumpy.
When the pilot touched down, he pulled the yoke so far back the stall warning buzzer went off. That continued for several seconds until the wings finally lost enough lift to allow the nose-wheel to settle onto the runway. That was not Leslie’s favorite part of the flight!
We zipped through immigration, met our driver, and were quickly on our way to the Royal Torarica hotel. I had never stayed there on any of my previous trips. That hotel is much closer to the center of town, which makes it easier to get around to the various tourist sites. En-route, the driver was kind enough to drive by the embassy so Leslie could see it.
Due to the one-hour time change, it was about 11:30 when we checked-in at the hotel. The lobby was a little chaotic because they were preparing to film a commercial for the hotel. We were too early to get our room key, but they were kind enough to store our bags. Once the transaction was complete, I asked them to call a taxi.
The taxi arrived within two minutes. I told the driver we wanted to go to the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral. He said the trip would be $15SRD, about $5US.
On our initial drive in from the airport, we drove by the cathedral and could see mass was in progress. When we arrived by taxi, the mass was over, and people were exiting. Many of the people stopped to talk with and take photos with the Bishop. There seemed to be a real air of excitement.
After exiting the cab, we approached the Bishop and introduced ourselves. He did not speak much English, but he seemed genuinely interested in meeting two travelers from Colorado.
As we prepared to walk inside the cathedral, I noticed some signs or plaques above each of the three entry doors. I could not see what they were as they were each covered by a cloth.
Walking inside, Leslie was awestruck by the beauty of this all-wood, 129-year old building. I, too, am amazed every time I visit. The wood used inside is not stained or finished. Instead, it has a 129-year-old patina that is strikingly beautiful. The stations of the cross and the crucifix are made of wood too. They are painted, which contrasts nicely with the natural wood.
Two of my favorite objects in the cathedral are the pieta and the enamel and gold-colored depiction of the Madonna and Child. The colors are so vibrant. It is a cathedral I shall never forget.
A few other tourists joined us as we walked around the cathedral. It is quite challenging to take in all of the details.
At the rear of the cathedral is a small area that has been set aside to sell religious items. Leslie found a ceramic cross. We bought that cross to add to her collection.

Typical artwork for the stations of the cross.

Detail of the wood ceiling in the basilica.

The diocesan flag beside the green, white, and red Suriname flag.

Covering the sign at the entrance to the basilica.

The newspapers the next morning shed light on why there had been such an air of excitement at the cathedral that Sunday. It had been an extraordinary mass which elevated the church to a Minor Basilica; no wonder!
Leaving the cathedral, we set our sights on Fort Zeelandia. It was a location I wanted to be sure Leslie saw. Part of the intent of our visit was to eat lunch at the restaurant at the Fort called Baka Foto.
It did not take us long to walk the three or four blocks to the Fort. I am sure it would have taken even less time if I had not stopped so frequently to take photos. The photos do reveal that many buildings within the UNESCO World Heritage Site are in need of repair and restoration. The good news is I did see a lot of properties preparing for rehabilitation, such as the old police station near the cathedral.

The Suriname flag flying in front of a building on Henk Arronstraat.

The Ministry of Justice and Police on Henk Arronstraat.

Flags at the Onafhankelijkheidsplein or town square.

The Presidential Palace faces the Onafhankelijkheidsplein.

Detail of the coat of arms on the Presidential Palace.

The flags in the Onafhankelijkheidsplein.

Art for sale at a building near the Onafhankelijkheidsplein.

When we arrived, we sat at a table on the patio that overlooks the Suriname River. It was very relaxing, in part, because it was so quiet.
We both opted for a glass of Merlot. For lunch, we both had fish and chips. Shortly after we placed the order, I realized I did not have much Surinamese cash with me. I asked the waitress if the restaurant accepted Visa. She informed me they only took MasterCard. In somewhat of a panic, I asked her where the nearest ATM was located. She said it was about five minutes away. I told her I was going to dash out to get some money. She said there was no need to worry. I should relax and enjoy my lunch. So we booth relaxed and enjoyed lunch. We enjoyed it so much we decided to share a creme brulee for dessert. It was wonderful!

The outdoor dining area of Baka Foto Restaurant.

A panorama of the Suriname River and Paramaribo. The Jules Wijdenboschbrug is on the left of the frame.

View across the Suriname River from the Baka Foto Restaurant.

A colonial house across from Fort Zeelandia.

More colonial houses across from Fort Zeelandia.

I left Leslie at the table, and I began walking to get money. I thought to myself how much simpler it would have been if I had just gotten money at the hotel after we checked-in. The hotel is only about two blocks from the Fort. That is where I decided to go. For security’s sake, I did not want to chance a “public” ATM.
When I arrived, I asked at the front desk of the Royal Torarica, where the ATM was located. They told me they did not have one, but there was a machine at the neighboring Torarica Hotel and Casino. That was another block or so of walking. I went inside, got some money, and then promptly hailed a taxi. For just a few SRD, I was whisked back to the Fort. I paid our bill, and we began to look around the Fort.
Fort Zeelandia dates from about 1613, the oldest building in Paramaribo, began life as a Dutch trading post. The Fort was held for a time by the French and then the British. In 1667, it was taken back by the Dutch and Christened Fort Zeelandia. According to a sign on the property, that was the same year New Amsterdam (present-day New York) was traded for Suriname. It was not a very defensible structure as it changed hands many times. It was even sacked by a French pirate, Jacques Cassard, in 1712. Regardless of its history, it is a site well worth the visit.

Waiting for her husband at the well in Fort Zeelandia.

One of the Fort Zeelandia cannon at the shore of the Suriname River.

View toward the central courtyard of Fort Zeelandia.

The Fort Zeelandia pharmacy is still on display.

A man walking toward the Baka Foto Restaurant.

The “I Love Suriname” sign near Fort Zeelandia.

Door to an old building near Fort Zeelandia.

Detail of an upper window crisscrossed with barbed wire.

The remnants of the old storehouse at Fort Zeelandia.

We left the Fort, destined for our hotel. Our stroll ended with us obtaining a room key and our bags. After a quick change into bathing suits, we went down to lounge by the pool. That was another area that was so relaxing. There was a water fountain that provided that soothing gurgling sound. One could relax at a table, a lounge chair, or a type of twin bed structure with a loose, fabric sunshade.

An old wooden building on Kleine Water Street.

The bridge over a canal on Kleine Water Street seems to have been completed in 1953.

Three men walking along Kleine Water Street.

Adjacent to the pool is a Koy pond. There were numerous, large Koy. Besides, there was a much smaller, but more striking, neon-blue fish. The pond was a favorite with guests. Many of them stopping by to watch the fish for a while before continuing on their way.

The swimming pool area at the Royal Torarica Hotel.

Feeding the fish at the Royal Torarica Hotel.

After the pool, we changed and decided to walk to the Torarica Hotel and Casino. It is the parent hotel of the Royal. Both hotels share the same grounds, which are amazing. They are immaculately cared for and full of tropical plants and flowers.
Our ultimate destination was the building/patio area by the river bank. I thought it would be a relaxing place to have a toddy and watch the sunset. When we got there, the bar portion was closed. Undeterred, we took the opportunity to walk out on the pier, which extends into the Suriname River. Before we got on the dock, we could see several people standing on the pier, looking over the sides. Reaching the others, we found they were watching several egrets, and a snake dining on fish.
Most of the egrets were white, but there was one that was a grayish-blue. On one side of the pier, a white egret was letting a snake flush out the fish. The river was low because the tide was out. The muddy river bank was exposed as were numerous holes. The holes ranged in size from a quarter to a half-dollar. Going from hole to hole was a small snake, I estimate it was about 18 inches long. Periodically the snake would completely disappear into a hole. When that happened, the white egret would get reasonably close to that hole, stand, and wait. Now and then a small fish would jump up from the same hole, and the egret would catch the fish.
Something I found interesting was the little fish near the water’s edge. I believe they are mudfish (Gobidae). Many of them were lying on the mud letting the small ripples from the river wash over them. Quite a few were similar in size to the fish we saw the egret eat. Regardless, none of the dozen or so egrets we saw showed any interest in the mudfish.

A white egret on the banks of the Suriname River.

A snake coming out of a hole on the banks of the Suriname River.

Small mudfish on the bank of the Suriname River.

A white egret waiting for the snake to flush out dinner.

The pier of the Maritieme Autoriteit Suriname (MAS). This is the Suriname Maritime Authority.

I had been on the pier on a previous journey. For some reason, I have always liked boats and ships. The dock allows a good view of another pier just downriver. That is where the pilot boats dock.
We slowly strolled back to the Royal, enjoying the manicured grounds. When we got back to the hotel, we selected two overstuffed chairs on the patio overlooking the pool. We also picked two glasses of wine. It was around 17:30, which meant the late afternoon light was excellent — the commercial crew we had seen when we first checked-in were taking advantage of that light. The team was now filming on the deck of the pool. They had multiple takes of every shot. It was interesting to watch how a commercial is made.

Patterns on a tile roof at the Royal Torarica Hotel.

An eastern statue near the swimming pool at the hotel.

Since we had packed so much into the day already, we decided not to go out for dinner. We walked inside and sat down at a table in the restaurant. We ordered a bottle of Casa Silva Cabernet Sauvignon to go with our meal. As the waiter opened and poured the wine, he mentioned that one of the specials that night was lobster. That piqued Leslie’s interest. She had several queries about the size, how it was cooked, and how it was served. The waiter said he would have the chef come out and explain.

Even though we had said it was not necessary, the executive chef, Floris van Noort, was soon standing at our table. He was a people-person, very friendly. He loved Leslie’s enthusiasm. They both acted as though they were long-lost friends.
The tray he had brought to the table was filled with about a dozen servings of lobster. They each looked like they were ready to eat right then. Chef Floris explained that the meat was from lobster claws. He further told how it had been marinated and how he intended to present the dish. Leslie asked if she could have a surf and turf dinner. The chef said that would be no problem, even though it was not offered on the menu.
The first thing we were served was the cream of vegetable soup in a small demitasse cup. It was just a sample, but good none the less.
Not too long after that, our appetizer showed up. We opted to split Gemarineerde Zalm. That is marinated salmon on toast with a sorbet of cucumber and a jelly of cucumber. It was served on a piece of black slate. Chef Floris came with the waiter and explained the dish to us. We felt like royalty! If someone had told me I would eat sorbet of cucumber and jelly of cucumber, I would have responded they were nuts. Well, they were both fantastic!

Next up was a bowl of soup, but this was a cream of white asparagus. The chef said the white asparagus had just arrived that day from Amsterdam. He told us we were the first people in Paramaribo to try the white asparagus this season. It was very rich and very delicious. I cannot communicate just how good the soup was.
Our main entree, lobster, and ossenhaas (tenderloin) arrived with another explanation from the chef. The lobster was served on a bed of risotto. The vegetables included peas, green asparagus, and some seagrass (it had a slightly salty taste). He had also drizzled a couple of sauces on the plate. Quite frankly I was a little nervous about the steaks because one was about twice as thick as the other, but Leslie and I had ordered ours done the same way. I thought for sure the thicker steak would be under-cooked. I could not have been more wrong. The certified Angus beef was cooked superbly, melting in my mouth.
We finished our meal with a creme brulee — wow, twice in one day!

Leslie with her new buddy, Chef Floris van Noort.

The restaurant and the chef were both so amazing we ended up eating there three nights out of the five we were in Paramaribo. I highly recommend the restaurant and the hotel.
One of the days during our stay, we discovered another fish pond. That pond had some massive catfish. Some of their heads looked to be at least one foot across. There was also an arapaima in the pond. They are native to many of the rivers in South America. We recognized it right away because we had seen an episode of River Monsters in which the host, Jeremy Wade, caught an arapaima. This particular fish was around four feet long. They can grow to between six and eight feet in length, weighing up to a couple of hundred pounds.

An arapaima fish in the pond at the Royal Torarica Hotel.

Wednesday, while I was at work, Leslie had a massage. She raved about it so much I decided to schedule a massage for the next afternoon. That was my first ever massage. It was very relaxing. I was shocked at the price, $48US for a 60-minute massage. That seemed very reasonable compared to what I have seen at other hotels.
Thursday evening, after my massage, we decided to try our luck in the casino. There is a brand new Ramada across the street from the Royal. It has a casino. We walked in, looked around, and settled on some of the old-style quarter slot machines. We cashed in $50SRD each for a cup of quarter-size tokens. That is roughly $17US. We made a pact to only use the tokens in our container to feed the machine, saving our winnings. I broke even exactly. Leslie lost $20SRD.
We took what was left and cashed in for paper money. We took that and went to an automated roulette wheel. We played until we both had zero left. It was entertaining, we did get a couple of drinks, and it did not cost an arm and a leg.
Even though I worked each day, this was one of the best excursions we have taken in quite some time.

An orchid on the grounds of the Royal Torarica Hotel.

A beautiful flowering tree on the hotel property.

Airboat Tour

Saint Cloud, Florida – December 17, 2013

For Leslie’s birthday dinner last night we went to Charley’s Steakhouse on Parkway Boulevard in Kissimmee, Florida. It was a little pricey, but it was sure good. Leslie and I shared an excellent bottle of Tikal Amorio. It was a Malbec wine. For my main dish, I chose the filet mignon. I have had many filets in the past, but the one last night was by far the best. My steak melted in my mouth. The lobster was not quite as good; it was quite tough. I have never had a tough lobster.
Today we all opted to go on an airboat ride. After doing a little research the day before, we selected Marsh Landing Adventures in St. Cloud. We chose the 90-minute tour, which cost $55 each, including our $4-off on each ticket because of a coupon we had found in an Orlando vacation magazine. The price indeed ended up being worth every penny.
The people in the office were very friendly. After purchasing our tickets, we were directed to drive about 1.2 miles further down the road to the starting point.
The airboat was waiting for us at the dock when we arrived at the parking area. As we boarded, the driver said those without coats might want to get them (I had brought mine). Since no one else had brought one, we were lucky he had a couple of extra jackets for Leslie and Lorraine.
Our captain, driver, and provider of cold-weather gear was Cap’n Bill. He got us all situated on the boat and gave us a safety briefing. He also shared that the site where we were beginning used to be a sugar cane processing plant. It was long gone, replaced by a county park.

Cap’n Bill and his boat.

The canal on which the boat sat was dug initially to allow for transporting lumber to the mills. Following the series of canals, lakes, and waterways, Cap’n Bill said one could make it to the Florida keys. However, since that would take more than 90 minutes, we would not get that far today.
We were all provided with ear muffs so we would not go deaf from the fan motor. Cap’n Bill started the engine, and we began heading south on the canal.

A boat in the canal coming toward our boat.

The throttle for the airboat was just like a gas pedal in a car. To go faster, Cap’n Bill would depress the pedal. During the tour, the airboat hit speeds of 35-40 mph.
Cap’n Bill rested his left hand on a tall pole that looked like a giant gear shift lever. That was used to steer the boat. Moving the pole forward deflected the rudders behind the fan blade to turn the craft to the left. By pulling the pole toward the rear of the boat, it turned right.
In just a few minutes, we left the canal behind and found ourselves in a marshy area. The vegetation varied from lily pads to small grasses; from small, skinny trees to tall, cattail-type grasses. As the boat skimmed along, the ducks in our path would scatter. It was interesting that they never indeed took flight. They would run atop the water, flapping their wings. At most, the ducks would get no more than two feet above the water.

Cap’n Bill stopped the boat in a grassy area. He explained what we should see. Since the morning had been relatively cold, the alligators, if they were out, would most likely stay still because they would be sunning themselves. He also said the name of the lake we were on is known as Toho. The full title is Tohopekaliga, quite a mouthful.

He started the boat again, and within minutes, we found ourselves looking at a seven-foot alligator sunning itself. The gators trample down the grass to make a comfortable spot in which to sun. They always leave an “escape” hole that allows them to submerge when they deem it necessary quickly. Even though the boat was within eight to ten feet of the reptile, it never moved; even when Cap’n Bill started the motor again.

A seven-foot alligator beside the airboat.

Zipping across the water again, we stopped near an island, actually idling and moving slowly. As we approached a small open area, Cap’n Bill quickly pointed off the right side of the boat. I was only able to see the back of a gator disappear underwater.

A little farther along, Leslie spotted a black snake sunning itself. Cap’n Bill spun us around so we could take some photos. It may have been about five feet in length. He said it was a cottonmouth. Another 100 yards along we saw several young, two-foot-long gators sunning themselves.

A cottonmouth snake in hiding beside the airboat.

We ultimately ended up at Big John’s spot. He was a massive, fourteen-foot long gator. Much like the first gator, Big John did not move.

Shortly after that, we ended up at our starting point. We gave Cap’n Bill a tip as we left the boat. We all very much enjoyed the tour. I would highly recommend it to anyone.

La Paz Waterfall Gardens

Heredia Province, Costa Rica – March 13, 2013

Once everyone was back on the bus after our hike on Mount Poas, we began our journey to La Paz Waterfall Gardens. It was back up into the clouds. As if that were not enough, it was raining too. So when we got off the bus at the La Paz Waterfall Gardens, we had to make a quick dash to the building. As we entered the building, we were each given a wrist band to show we had paid the entry fee.

The first building we were in was a gift store. They were doing a brisk business in rain ponchos. We did not need one because I had brought an umbrella for us to use. A brochure I picked up in the building touts the following:

“Nowhere else on earth can guests feed toucans and hummingbirds by hand, release newly hatched butterflies into their first flight, look straight into the eyes of a jaguar, or observe the brilliant colors of a red-eyed leaf frog from just inches away.”

Looking closer at the brochure, I could see we were in for a two and one-half hour, 1.3 kilometers (0.8 miles) walk through the rain forest. With just a couple of exceptions, the entire walk would be downhill.

Walking down the trail in the rain.

Our tour began by walking down to the bird aviary. I have been in several aviaries. I must say this is the largest. There were numerous species in the aviary; however, the stars of the aviary were the toucans. For those that wanted a photo, one of the guides would coax the bird onto a shoulder or arm for the perfect shot. Luckily, Leslie opted to “host” one of the birds.

Leaving the aviary, we shortly arrived at the butterfly enclosure. We had gone to a butterfly farm when we stopped at St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands. The enclosure at La Paz was significantly better and more entertaining than the one in St. Thomas. First of all, it was at least four times the size. That meant there were hundreds of butterflies. Second, the layout of the enclosure helped make the experience much more enjoyable since it was built on the side of a hill the topography lent to the interest. Lastly, there was an area where there were dozens of cocoons; several of those had butterflies emerging.

There were hundreds of butterflies and moths.

Another view of the butterfly and moths.

People walking through the butterfly enclosure.

This blue beauty landed on Leslie’s shoulder.

Butterflies and moths seemed to be everywhere.

Another of the butterflies stopping for lunch.

These particular flowers were very popular with the residents.

Two butterflies flying while their mate rests on a leaf.

There were dozens of cocoons on display.

We made our way through the rain and drizzle to the orchid display area. The orchid is the national flower of Costa Rica. I have never seen so many orchids in one place. Eddie, our guide, told us there are hundreds of varieties in his country.

We continued to the jungle cats area. I must say my least favorite part of our visit was the various animal cages such as the monkeys, sloths, and jungle cats. It did look like the animals received proper care, but I just thought the cages were too small and cramped.

Two of the three-toed sloths awakened from their slumber.

Finally, it was time for lunch. We were starving after all of the physical activity. The Colibries Restaurant is roughly in the middle of the various exhibits. The architecture of the restaurant gives the feel of eating among the towering trees and waterfalls of the rain forest. It is a buffet-style restaurant. The food was much better than the touristy fare we were expecting. We had quite a selection including pizza, bean dip, and tortilla chips, fresh tomatoes, pork ribs (BBQ), and of course red wine.

Sitting in the treehouse of Colibries Restaurant.

The tree in the center of the dining area of Colibries Restaurant.

After the enjoyable and relaxing lunch, we started for the first of five waterfalls. It was a beautiful stroll down several stone stairs. It had stopped raining while we ate lunch, so walking was a little easier. We finally made it to a bridge from which one could look upstream toward Templo Falls. We continued along, stopping to admire Magia Blanca, Encantada, Escondida, and lastly La Paz Falls.

A hummingbird stopping for a rest on the feeder perch.

A purplish-blue flower in the rain forest.

A multitude of plants in the rain forest.

This reminded me of a bird of paradise. If that is what it is, I have never seen one with a single color.

Various ferns and moss growing on the trunk of a tree.

Encantada Falls is right beside the path.

The people at the viewing platform are dwarfed by Encantada Falls.

The path winds away from Encantada Falls.

A smaller waterfall below Encantada Falls.

Our final stop was the gift shop at the shuttle bus pick-up point. While we were on the bench waiting for our bus, we were surprised by a raccoon that appeared near the seat. It just sat quietly and watched everyone.

When the bus arrived, we all piled on, glad to be sitting. The road at this point is about half paved and half dirt. That is thanks to the last major earthquake in the area. I believe Eddie said that an earthquake happened on June 9, 2009. He went on to say the same bus in which we were riding had ended up at the bottom of the ravine. Just before the earthquake hit, the driver that day had dropped off the passengers where we had disembarked earlier in the day. On his way down to the shuttle bus stop (from which we had just departed), the earthquake struck. The bus went off the road and rolled numerous times, coming to rest at the bottom of the ravine. The driver was not badly hurt.
Eddie continued to pepper us with tidbits on our way back to San Jose. One I got a kick out of was his reference to speed bumps on the road as “sleeping police.”
At the hotel, we went directly to our room to relax for a while.
After two more days of the conference, it was time for us to head back home on March 16. We took a 04:30 taxi to the airport in San Jose, Costa Rica. When we arrived, we found ourselves in a sea of tourists trying to get out of the country.
We took our place at the end of a very long queue at American Airlines. After about a minute, I remembered being told the day before to be sure I went through immigration control before checking-in. Immigration control is tucked away in a corner. I can only imagine there are several angry people every day that are denied assistance at the counter and sent to immigration control.
Once we made it through immigration control, we went back to the American Airlines queue. It was huge, with some 100 to 150 people waiting. I had Leslie stand in line, and I went to the first class counter. They said they would help us because of Leslie’s hip. So, thankfully, we bypassed all of those people.
With our boarding passes in hand, we went to the security queue. It was more than twice the size of the American Airlines queue. After winding through the rope line one or two times, one of the Costa Rican National Police spotted Leslie. They unhooked the rope and took us right away. They looked at our passports and then directed us directly to one of the scanning stations. So, once again, we bypassed a zillion people.
On the other side of the metal detector, I was waiting for my carry-on. When I put my hand on the bag, one of the police said something to me in Spanish. When he saw I did not understand, he switched to English. He said just one word, “scissors,” and pointed to my bag. It was then I remembered Leslie had put her cross-stitch in my carry-on. The offending scissors were of the three-inch variety. I gave them to the officer, and we were on our way again.
I sat Leslie at our gate, and then I began the hunt for coffee. I returned with a café and a café con leche. The coffee was terrific, the best we have had since we left Spain.
The agent at the counter knew we were going to pre-board, and she called us to the front of the queue after we had finished our coffee. We stood there waiting. Soon, a female flight attendant came by and scolded us for standing there. She said we would be there for a long time because the flight crew was not even on board yet. Neither of us said anything. We just looked at her.
We finally got on board and settled in for our relatively short flight to Miami, Florida.
Once we got to Miami, we made it through immigration and customs fairly quickly. I left Leslie at the customs exit and began the hunt for a wheelchair. As it turns out, the first place I found was the same stand we had used a week earlier. That was near concourse D. We went back to get Leslie and then made our way to the Caribbean Airlines ticket counter at concourse J. What a walk.
At one point in our stroll, the wheelchair attendant helping Leslie stopped, put on the wheelchair brakes, and ran a little way down a side corridor. I had no idea what she was doing. Then I saw her stop at a luggage cart, turn around, and she brought it back to me. It was kind of her to do that because I had been wrestling our two large checked-bags and the one carry-on.
After we checked our luggage, got our boarding passes, and made it through security, I gave the attendant a generous tip.
When she left us, we sat down for a meal at McDonald’s, something we have not done in a very long time. That hit the spot.
As we waited at our gate at the Miami airport, I talked with the gate agent. She said that since we did not have a transit ticket, we should be allowed to stay on the plane in Port of Spain.
Once we were on the plane in our seats, I noticed we had a reasonable amount of legroom. The seat in front of me was about four inches from my knees; pretty good for the coach section of the aircraft. I turned around and saw an exit row was empty. I asked if we could switch to those seats, to which the flight attendant replied, no. There was some problem with the exit window. The flight attendant did offer the row in front of the exit row. It was empty too.
Leslie and I switched. As soon as we did, the lady that had been seated beside Leslie had her friend sit with her. As soon as we sat down, we saw the error of our ways. The seat in front of me was touching my knees. The top of the chair was within four or five inches of my face. Our seats would not recline because of the exit row behind us. That soured our attitude and made for a long flight.
Our attitude took a turn for the worse when we landed at Port of Spain, and we found out we would have to disembark, go through security again, and then get back on the same plane. Not having a transit ticket made the experience even worse. The attendant had to handwrite a ticket for each of us. We took our tickets, went through security, then sat in the waiting area. The one good thing was we got our original seats back.
We arrived in Guyana at 21:45 and made it home at 23:00, a long day of travel.

The Hanging Houses of Cuenca and the Enchanted City

Cuenca, Spain – October 14, 2011

We took a drive of about two hours east of Madrid to the town of Cuenca. We arrived at about 09:00. The sun was still not wholly shinning in the village. It was in the low 50’s when we arrived. There was a little bit of a breeze too, so the decision to wear shorts seemed ill-advised at that time!

After parking the car, we began our walk into the old section of Cuenca. We could not help but notice the 16th century Magana Tower. It is all that remains of what was once a Moorish fortress.

The 16th-century Mangana Tower in Cuenca.

An electrical box painted with the word “creo,” which means “I think.”

As is the norm, the primary intent of our initial walk is to get a coffee. Near the three arches, we went into the Meson los Arcos. We sat in the relative warmth and enjoyed our coffee.

The very cold beer taps in Meson los Arcos.

One of the arches with the entrance to the cathedral visible in the distance.

Our next aim was the Casas Colgadas (hanging houses). These are houses that date from the 14th and early 15th centuries, built at the top of a cliff. They partially hang out over the cliff, hence the name. Today, one is a restaurant, and the other two comprise the Museum of Abstract Art.

To get to the cliff-side of the hanging houses, one must use Calle Canónigos (Canon Street). It passes under some buildings on the side of the hanging houses. The construction looks today from the 14th and 15th centuries. One has to wonder if the interior is as rough as the exterior of the buildings or if some interior designer has done something truly amazing.

One of the best vantage points from which to photograph the hanging houses is from the St. Paul bridge. On the bridge, one finds hundreds of small padlocks. Each one has the name of a guy and a gal. Some of them have dates written on them too. With my limited understanding of Spanish, I believe this is a sign of a couple’s undying love.

Our first view of the Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses). in the distance is the Puente de San Pablo (St. Paul Bridge) and the Parador de Cuenca (Cuenca National Hotel).

Detail of the south side of the hanging houses.

Calle Canónigos (Canon Street) passes under buildings near the hanging houses.

The hanging houses as seen from the bridge.

A panorama of the valley beside the parador.

On the road below the bridge is a sign that reads, “I love you Rabih.”

Finished taking photographs from the bridge, we continued our walk, exploring Cuenca. It is a very picturesque little town. We found a statue depicting King Alfonso VIII (1155 – 1214), so named when he was only two years old. Regardless, he is renown for defeating one of the Moorish caliphates in 1212. As part of that initial reconquest, he liberated the town of Cuenca in 1177.

Some of the houses and buildings of Cuenca.

A statue commemorating Alfonso VIII (1155-1214).

We ultimately made it back to the Plaza Mayor. It is a very colorful centerpiece of Cuenca. At the west end of the plaza, one can see the city hall building.

The yellow building housing Bar Latinaja.

One of the small side streets in Cuenca.

Some paintings and drawings on display outside the entrance to the Museo de Arte Abstractor Español (Museum of Spanish Abstract Art).

The first museum we went through was the Diocesan Museum. Unfortunately, photographs are not allowed inside. Regardless, there were terrific artifacts from the church dating back to the 1200s. Probably the most renown item the museum has is the original painting The Christ with the Cross by El Greco, from the late 1500s.

We then entered the Cuenca Cathedral. It was one of the best, most opulent, we have been in since we have been in Spain. I think this gives the Toledo Cathedral a run for its money. The construction of the cathedral began in the late 12th Century, soon after King Alfonso liberated Cuenca, coming to substantial completion in 1257. At one time a bell tower was part of the cathedral at the front left corner; however, it collapsed in 1902 after a lightning strike, but never rebuilt. It is unfortunate I could not take photographs inside the cathedral, both to share with the reader and to help the author remember the beauty.

The main entrance to the Cuenca Cathedral.

Detail of the arch above the entrance to the cathedral.

The Museum of Abstract Art was open when we emerged from the Cathedral, so we decided to go there. There were some pieces that we liked. Eusebio Sampere did one of them. It was titled Campos de Minbre, 1965. It is a series of horizontal lines, painted one by one with the aid of a ruler. Each line almost looks like embroidery thread. We liked it so much we bought a framed print in the museum store.

After going through the museum, I dashed back behind the museum to take some more photographs of the Casas Colgadas in a better light.

Detail of Número 460A by Luis Fieto (1963).

View of the bridge and parador from Calle Canónigos (Canon Street).

A properly lit view of the hanging houses.

We made our way back to the Plaza Mayor. We selected the San Juan restaurant at random. They offered a meal with traditional dishes of Cuenca for 20€ (US$24). It was a six-course meal; beginning with a salad, morteruelo de Cuenca and ajo arriero de bacalao, Zarajos de cordero, sopa Castellana, costilla de cordero asado, and dessert. The morteruelo is a pate served hot. It is a mixture of rabbit, partridge, and pork liver. The ajo arriero is also a kind of pate. Served cold, the ajo arriero is notoriously difficult to digest (supposedly it can block the digestive tract of a donkey). It contains garlic, boiled potato, cod, oil, egg, and walnuts. The Zarajos is seasoned and grilled lamb tripe. All of that, including our drinks, was only 40€ (US$48)! A steal by Spanish standards!

Grilled windows on Calle Obispo Valero (Bishop Valero Street).

Colorful buildings along the north side of Plaza Mayor.

The ajo arriero de bacalao (garlic cod pâté) and the morteruelo de Cuenca (a type of pâté).

The Zarajos de cordero (a concoction of lamb tripe).

A police officer walking across Plaza Mayor.

The costilla de cordero asado (roasted lamb rib).

The three arches leading to Plaza Mayor.

Buildings on the northern edge of Cuenca.

Plaza Mayor as viewed through one of the arches.

Following lunch, we decided to view the ruins of the Cuenca Castle. That meant a long, uphill walk from the plaza. The ruins are of an 8th-century Moorish stronghold. Today, all that remains are two walls and the Arch of Bezudo. Regardless, from the top of the wall, one has a commanding view of the area surrounding Cuenca. I thought it was worth the walk. Leslie and Tyler may have a different opinion.

The sign above the passageway reads, “Christ of the passageway.”

Looking toward the bridge, one can see the yellow terrace of a restaurant.

An iron crucifix on the side of one of the buildings.

Walking toward the wall of a 13th-century castle wall.

The view north along the Júcar River valley.

Across the Huécar valley, one can see a statue of Christ on the hilltop.

A statue near the 13th-century castle wall.

The arched opening through the Arch of Bezudo in the old castle wall.

View from the top of the old castle wall.

We decided it was time to walk back to the car. The following photographs are some of the things we saw while on our way. Oh, the walk was all downhill!

The entry of the Posada de San José Hostal.

Plaza Mayor. The very light yellow building above the red car is where we decided to have lunch.

Walking between the buildings toward the 16th century Mangana Tower.

Another view of the Christ monument on the hilltop across the valley.

The view to the west along the Júcar River valley.

The view back to the east along the Júcar River valley.

We made it back to the car, got in, and began our drive to the Ciudad Encantada (Enchanted City). The site is about 25 miles north of Cuenca. Hugging the Río Júcar and later the Río de Valdecabras, it was a beautiful drive. We left the valley floor behind as we entered the Parque Natural de la Serranía de Cuenca (Natural Park of the Serranía of Cuenca) and began our climb to the Ciudad Encantada.

We parked across Highway CM-2104 from the entrance to the park.

Rock formations and trees at the parking area for the Ciudad Encantada (Enchanted City).

Entry to the Enchanted City was 15€ (US$18) for the three of us. The self-guided tour is about one and one-half hours long. The walk is relatively level throughout. Many of the rock formations look like sculptures from nature; such as a bear, a crocodile, a man’s face, and a snake. No, wait! The snake was real…

This site is a bit off the beaten track, but it is well worth the visit.

The entry to Ciudad Encantada (Enchanted City).

The sun behind the Tormo formation (unsure of the translation).

Hopefully, Tyler will not push the Tormo over…I cannot afford that…

The path winds through the various formations.

The tree seems to have been overtaken by the rock.

The top of one of the rock formations known as the sea stone.

This plant reminds one of a rose hip plant.

The crocodile and elephant fight formation.

After our long, hot walk, we stopped at the roadside café to buy some bottled water and use the facilities before our ride back to Madrid. While I was waiting for the others, I spotted a bottle of my centenary drink…I was tempted to buy a bottle, but I stuck with the water.

Cuenca and the Enchanted City are undoubtedly our most favorite spots in Spain…so far!