Red Rocks

Red Rocks

Sinclair Head, New Zealand – June 2, 2018

Yesterday, Leslie and I wanted to take a walk.  It just so happens that I had looked at the Red Rocks area the day before.  Mr. Google indicated it was nearly 2.5 kilometers (1.5 miles) from the parking area at Owhiro Bay to the Red Rocks formation.  Since that was about one mile less than our recent walk toward the Pencarrow lighthouses, I thought it would be a pleasant walk for Leslie and me.

As we drove to the southern end of the North Island, we saw large clouds building. We were not sure what the weather might have held in store for our walk. When we arrived, we saw the clouds were across Cook Strait, hugging the South Island. As I parked the car, we saw a man walk from one of the camping vehicles out onto the rocks at the seashore. He stood there, soaking in the view toward Sinclair Head. He looked tiny and insignificant in comparison to the scene before us.

A man looking across the bay toward Sinclair Head.

It was a chilly morning because the breeze was coming from the south – the Antarctic south. That translates into the Antarctic. Regardless, we were sure all would be fine once we began our walk.

Our first obstacle was a stream crossing the “road.”  It was fairly deep, maybe 18 inches or so at the deepest point.  It was also wide at this point, as much as four or five times the width of the road.  We encountered the stream about 100 meters from the parking area.  That made me glad we decided to walk and not drive.

We were some of the very first that morning to walk on the road. It was very serene. We almost felt alone in a vast wilderness. As we had thought after walking some ways, we began shedding some of our cold-weather gear. It was not bad when the sun was out, but if we found ourselves on the shady side of a hill, it did cool down considerably.

Not long after setting out, we saw an Interislander ferry out in Cook Strait, making its way to Picton on the South Island.  We also noticed a fishing boat going back and forth.  We were both curious to know what they were trying to catch.

An Interislander ferry plying the Cook Strait on the way to Picton.

The beach became rockier as we continued along the trail. If we had been beachcombing, I am sure we would have found lots of paua shells. They love rocky shorelines. At times, it did feel like we were walking on the beach. The road was very sandy. There were several points along the way that made me glad, once again, that we were not driving. I am reasonably sure we would not have made it back without some towing assistance.

A gull atop a rock at a very rocky seashore.

The road was wet, so where it was hardpacked gravel, there were numerous potholes filled with water. There were two other points where we had to ford small streams. Neither of them was as sizable as the first. The other surface we encountered was water washed rocks, each about four inches in diameter. It looked like river rock that had been trucked in and dumped along the road. I am sure that was to overcome some of the more difficult, sandy portions. There was even one stretch of a couple-hundred meters that was covered in seaweed. That really smelled bad.

As we walked along, some people did pass us on foot.  Periodically a vehicle passed us.  One couple asked as they passed if we were going to Red Rocks.  Of course, we said yes.  The woman went on and on about how colorful the rocks are.  They also added that if we continued for about a kilometer beyond Red Rocks to Devil’s Gate, we should find some seals.  That extra distance was not originally in our mind, but we both mulled it over as we continued to Red Rocks.

When we arrived at Red Rocks, a family was sitting there. They had been ahead of us on the trail. The family was a man and woman with three very young children. I guess the oldest might have been six. We were surprised they were able to walk so far. Approaching them, Leslie asked if they wanted me to take their photo. They were happy with the offer. They posed while I used the woman’s cell phone to capture the shot.

Finished with that, we marveled at Red Rocks. They are only in this one location along the coast. There are not endless meters of the rock, but rather a very concentrated area. The stones are there as a result of the subduction of two tectonic plates; the Pacific Plate and the Australian Plate. As parts of the plates washed away over the eons and other portions were pushed up, the red rock formations became visible. The rocks are between 200 and 250 million years old. I am glad we were able to see them. They were stunning. We were also lucky that we arrived while the sun illuminated the rocks.

The water of the Cook Strait encroaching on the red rocks.
The rocks are very definitely red.

In several places along the beach, we saw private baches. I am sure they have continually wonderous views of the Cook Strait; however, they appeared quite primitive. I did see one that had a satellite dish, but the others did not even seem to have electricity. Neither of us aspires to live off-the-grid, so we do not plan to buy one anytime soon.

One of the baches along the beach road.

From our vantage point at Red Rocks, we could see Devil’s Gate. We looked at each other and said what the heck! So, the march continued. As we walked on, a couple of 4X4s went by us. We saw them drive up and through Devil’s Gate. That was when we first noticed just how steep and rough that portion of the road was. There is absolutely no way our vehicle would have made it through the “gate.”

Shortly before we got to the “gate,” a man passed us; walking with his very young daughter. On his back, in a backpack-contraption was his even younger son. They walked on through the “gate” while we continued up the grade. Nearing the top, I had to stop and offer a hand of assistance to help Leslie up; it was that steep. On the other side, it was steeper yet. Both of us had to go very slow and carefully.

Two four-wheel-drive vehicles crossing through Devil’s Gate.
A dad walking with his daughter while carrying his son in the backpack.

Once we were on somewhat more stable land, we saw the seal colony.  The man with the two children asked us if we were visiting.  We told him we were.  His advice to us was there was no need to walk much farther along the beach.  He said there usually are not more seals beyond this point, Sinclair Head.  We heeded his advice and spent our time looking at the seals there.

The seal colony at Sinclair Head does not match the numbers of the seals we have seen at Cape Palliser. Regardless, they were just as easy to see and access. There was one seal in particular that rose from a nap long enough to yawn and then lay back down. Obviously, the seal’s back needed to be scratched. The seal rubbed its back over the rock for a couple of minutes.

Awaking in between naps.
The youngest seal we saw.

When we tired of watching the seals, we made our way back up the incline to the “gate.”  When we got to the point where we could see through the gate, we realized just how far we had come.  I know our car would not have made it, but I sure wished it was there.

Back through Devil’s Gate. Our car was parked at the far distant hill.

Just at the base of the incline on the other side, we saw some vehicles approaching. I decided to wait for the cars to drive through. I wanted to get some photos. As one can see from the sign beside the “gate,” even the authorities deem the passage “extreme” requiring “suitable driving skills.” They even refer to the road as a “track.” That is a very descriptive word.

Two of the vehicles just contained a driver each. They seemed to be friends. Both cars parked at the base where the incline begins. One of the drivers jumped out, ran to the top of the “gate” and stood there to guide the other driver. That first vehicle was a VW Toureg. He did not make it up and over on his first try. The car slid back about halfway down the incline. On the second try, he did make it over. That driver came back to the top to guide the other. The second vehicle, a Toyota, made it over on his first try.

The driver of a Toyota dashing up the track to provide direction back to his buddy in a VW 4X4.
And he’s off on his first try.
A Toyota going up and over at Devil’s Gate.

During this activity, Leslie sat on a boulder near the road. Suddenly, I noticed there was a seal very near to where she sat. Neither of us had seen it before. We probably would have stepped on it as we left if I had not spotted the animal. I took the opportunity to take some more photographs.

At one point, the seal raised and coughed a few times.  One of the things I noticed when this happened was just how big the teeth are.  It would not be a good idea to get too close to one of those wild seals.

She was not yawning. She was coughing. Regardless, look at those teeth!!

During our walk back, there were many more people and many more vehicles.  Because of the narrow road at points, it was a challenge to navigate.  I think we both thought we would never make it back to our car.  We just kept putting one foot in front of the other.

Ultimately, we did make it back to the car.  From the parking area, I took a photograph of Devil’s Gate.  We both could only marvel at just how far we had walked.

Sinclair Head and the Cook Strait.
Driftwood on the beach.
A fishing boat in Cook Strait.
The fishing boat heading toward the rocky shore. A black shag is atop the rock on the left.
The Mystique, a fishing boat, is fishing just offshore while a man is fishing from the rocks.
Gathering clouds across Cook Strait.
Red Rocks, our initial destination.

Detail of the red rocks.
Detail of the red rocks.
A couple of mollusks on the rock waiting for the tide to return.
Waves and clouds at red rocks.
The vastness of it all.
A unique rock formation just beyond the red rocks.
A small wave meeting a small rock.
Devil’s Gate.
The “road” to Devil’s Gate on Sinclair Head.
The incline increases the closer one gets to Devil’s Gate.
Extreme driving hazards. Suitable vehicle and driving skills required. Keep off private property. Stay on the track.
Just on the opposite side of Devil’s Gate, there is a colony of seals.
Back to sleep now.
One was awakened; maybe by the smell…
Looking around before going back to sleep.
It seems amazing to me that the seals can make it across the landscape to their favorite rock.
Two are down for the count.
The very rocky shore at Sinclair Head.
She seems to still be in a sleepy haze.
If I were a seal, I would need a much, much more comfortable rock.
Rolling over.
Rolling and scratching her back.
Looking from the seal colony toward Cape Palliser in the far, far distance.
Baring Head in the distance.
Our car was parked at the base of the larger hill.
This sleepy seal was on the approach side of Devil’s Gate.
This is the beach the seal had to navigate to be able to find her favorite resting spot.
Another view of Devil’s Gate.
A VW pickup making the climb.
One final look…
Our sleeping seal friend.
Another cough. Maybe she had a fishbone stuck…
Awakening.
Of all the resting spots we saw, this seemed by far to be the most comfortable.
The shoreline as we trudged back to the car.
The fishing boat was still out and about.
Another incoming wave.
Devil’s Gate at Sinclair Head.

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